Originally Posted by Bilbobaker

I think I know what you did. A picture would sure be sweet.

Sorry. Don't have a good closeup camera.

Originally Posted by Tres Wright

Have you flown it since making the mod?

Works great!

Hi guys, i was just wondering if anyone here has tried making there own battery yet out of lets say 3 to 4 piccoz lipos in parallel? im guessing the flight time would be longer? anyone?...

Originally Posted by Martyn McKinney

I just finished a very simple mod for faster forward and reverse flight.

With a pair of sidecutters, I cut the flat portion of the right-hand arm going to the right hand servo (PASSENGER SIDE IF YOU DRIVE IN NORTH AMERICA) extending from the swash, in half.

There is a center reinforcing ridge on the top of the remaining arm (stub) which I removed with a sharp X-Acto knife.

I then mounted the cut off piece, still attached to the servo, on top of the stub connected to the swash and glued it with a drop of CA.

I didn't even have to remove the body and the trims barely needed adjusting.

The fix took about 5 minutes and when I find the time, I also might do the left and right.

BE CAREFUL WITH THE CA GLUE! Don't let any get into the swash.

What I found with this mod is: at full pitch the Outer Shaft Retaining Collar will slide at the swashplate!

John

Full pitch? Do you mean full forward, which I guess is also full pitch.

I had no issues. Perhaps it is dependent on the final length of the swashplate arm.

Here Is my Modded MCX for night flight

-Bret

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=940554

Has anyone had any problems getting the LiPo out of the charger? I need to use a small screwdriver or other sharp object to pry it upword to disconnect it from the chargers plug. Grasping the top edge is nearly impossible to remove it.

My friends is that way but mine is easy.

Originally Posted by madmike43613

Here's the Huey and CH53. The .007" thick plastic came in and the weights are down some.
The Huey is now 5.2 grams assembled and painted. The CH53 is 7 grams assembled, painted, and with landing gear.
To use the CH53 you remove the tail fin and landing gear so that removes 2 grams. They both fly well but of course times do suffer some.

Mike

Mike - where did you get these? I love scale planes and helis, those bodies look great!

I'm surprised you didn't get a response to your post, guess everyone looks at this as purely a sport heli, but I enjoy these more with scale looks.

For those that want to see those scale bodies, its Post 89 on page 6

Originally Posted by purdueaero

Here Is my Modded MCX for night flight

-Bret

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=940554

that is one SICK mCX!! i love it, great job!!

This heli is incredible! I own an E-Sky Lama V2, a fairly good first heli, but the gyro hold for yaw is NOWHERE as good as this. On the Lama, throttle (cyclic?) changes effect yaw stability, so you can have the yaw fairly tamed, then it goes away as soon as you throttle up or down. It also drifts with flight time, so you "fly the tail" a lot. This mCX is rock solid! The smaller size also makes it a lot easier to fly in the small rooms my house has.

I do like the scale look of the Lama, and really want to learn more about those bodies Mike showed.

try this if you wish,..

If you have extra WA 4#3 flybar paddles, cut 30 to 40% off the span. Sand lightly to get weight of each exact. Mounts right on to the MCX flybar,..the airfoil is nice and thin, and please put it on Aerodynamically correct. If you do not, you have canceled out Bernoulli’s Principle, even though the airfoil is symmetrical. And the premise of the relative wind "Attaching a Boundary Layer" to the flybar paddle, will Never take place. Drag, vibration, bending/flexing of the flybar, and a group of other negative things Will take place.

Michael,..

[QUOTE=superdave420]"need" is sorta subjective my thinking behind the bassakwards paddles is that the TE will cut the air more and react faster.

Yes Dave it will "cut" the Relative wind easier,...however,..it Will Not form a Boundary Layer around the flybar,..and the flybar must have a reasonable Boundary Layer from LE to TE because it is a functioning airfoil.

Mikey G,..your friend in WI

[QUOTE=yodafm1e]

Originally Posted by superdave420

"need" is sorta subjective my thinking behind the bassakwards paddles is that the TE will cut the air more and react faster.

Yes Dave it will "cut" the Relative wind easier,...however,..it Will Not form a Boundary Layer around the flybar,..and the flybar must have a reasonable Boundary

Layer from LE to TE because it is a functioning airfoil.

Mikey G,..your friend in WI

To Mike. Good to see you picked one up.

I must say. Despite fluid dynamics / coanda , boundry layers etc... Works great mouted backwards. I do admit I'm probably trading energy to center the top rotor faster. But that's n acceptable trade off for me. Now if the paddles rotated about the flybar axis then I would totally mount them properly.

Ok now I need to start my way back down this huge hill

(climbed to Mission Peak summit this morning in Fremont CA. Great iPhone coverage up here)
t

Originally Posted by yodafm1e

Yes Dave it will "cut" the Relative wind easier,...however,..it Will Not form a Boundary Layer around the flybar,..and the flybar must have a reasonable Boundary Layer from LE to TE because it is a functioning airfoil.

Mikey G,..your friend in WI

I understand why airfoil paddles might be an asset when they are controlled, but on this heli they are not controlled and in my opinion the stock paddles offer no advantage over weights.

A thinner paddle would likely offer less profile drag, however.

I don't think there's enough headspeed on these for the flybar weight shape to have much impact. Mine is the earlier version with cylindrical weights, turn them any direction and they have the exact same "airfoil"