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Oct 10, 2008, 02:59 PM
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by The Madhatter
Hey y'all, I'm new here and have found alot of helpful info, I just want to say thanks. I also want to pass on one of my first hand experiences. I am fairly new to helis only having one b4 my mCX a cx2. So I dont have the best control over my mcx just yet. Whne I first got I flew it for a couple of days and then decided to get all the GITD parts except for the main frame. On my third flight after the change of parts I started noticing a notable decrease in flight time and performance. I also had to set it down pertty hard on one landing during this pack and snapped off one side of the GITD landing skkid and I was only about 3 feet off the ground. So I put my black skid backk on, flew through a couple more packs and then put my blackk blades back on. I instantly noticed my fly time and performance went back up to the way it was out of the box. I have since brokken the GITD swash plate and the GITD rear tail fin in minor crashes. I thinks that either this material is heavier or more brittle than the stock components, I'm not sure witch though. Has anyone else noticed this?
both,
maybe?

I have my GITD parts on for maybe half a flight and took them back off. Inever got a chance to find out the durability.
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Oct 10, 2008, 03:25 PM
dribbe's Avatar
Hi,
FWIW, As I stated when the mCX first shipped, the properties of the GITD parts are not near as durable as the stock parts.... They are for flying, not crashing!

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=288


Have Fun,
David
Last edited by dribbe; Oct 10, 2008 at 03:57 PM.
Oct 10, 2008, 05:34 PM
Heli's rule!
dacaur's Avatar
yes the glow in the dark parts have been confirmed by horizon enplyee's to be way less durable than the stock plastic parts. Get your crashing out of the way before you go for the glow in the dark stuff
Oct 10, 2008, 11:37 PM
Suspended Account
Bilbobaker's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by bassplayinDude
The Tx does have servo reversing. It is covered in the mCX manual.
Thanks, don't know how I missed that one.

Perfect.
Oct 12, 2008, 12:55 AM
Suspended Account
Bilbobaker's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by dacaur
Or if you want to be able to plug the charger into the wall, but still want use the stock charger and just plug it in with a 6V wall-wart charger, here is how you would do that... You just need a 3 way switch, a DC jack, and basic soldering skills. With the switch switched one way it will charge off the AA's, and with it the other way it will charge from the DC jack., there are also jacks you can get that have a switch built in so when you plug it in it disconnects the AA's automatically, but they cost a little more.

How much output does the wall wart need to deliver?
Oct 12, 2008, 02:54 AM
Heli's rule!
dacaur's Avatar
Well, I think I heard the stock charger will charge the pack in 20 min, which would be 3C, so you need at least 390Mah, plus a little extra for waste.. But I would try to find something at least 500Mah to be safe. Too much is better than too little, as the charger will only take as much as it needs... It would charge the same with a 500mah wall wart as it would with a 2000mah wall wart, but It might not work at all with a 200mah one....
Oct 12, 2008, 03:01 AM
Suspended Account
Bilbobaker's Avatar
Thanks.
I was hoping to use rechargeable nimh or even a two cell pack of rechargeable lipos but the wall wart is probably the best way to go.

I'll check the local thrift store and if I don't find a recyclable wwart the I'm off to a mart store tomorrow.
Oct 13, 2008, 11:05 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xrayted
Very cool info! Your mod is along the same line that I was thinking but in a different approach.
The swash arms are very long and this reduces the leverage the servo has on moving the swash.
My idea is to cut the swash link arms in the middle and then "stack" the part with the ball connection on top of the remaining portion coming off the swash. If the plastic is roughed up a bit, then CA should hold it.
Then wrap the joint in thread and soak it in CA. This should give a solid bond and then you would effectively get much more swash throw as you have made the swash arms about 50% shorter. Adjust the links for the slightly higher swash connection and relevel the swash. I will probably lose some of the increased travel due to fact that the servo links will be at and angle traveling to the swash, but it should still give much more throw.
Im traveling and wont have time to try this for a few weeks, but the physics are feasible. Im using a DX7 so if the swash movement is too much I should be able to just fine tune it out to what I need.

Thanks for sharing the info!!


I just did that yesterday....
Here is a different idea for modification to give the MCX some more speed and agility.

I went to the lhs and was ready to buy exactly what mmcginnis recommended, as the new swash plate cought my eye. To make it short, a friend says, hey, instead of cutting the little, tiny things on the swash plate, why do not you cut and shorten the swash plate arms! He did mean the 2 arms from the swash plate, that extend to the front of the heli.
Those arms are being used to move the swash plate per 2 push rods, which are attached to the servos on the other end.
Well, I though, compared with your mod, it should actually accomplish the same… The benefit though, the arms are a little bit bigger, not so tiny as the linkage with the balls.
Plus, you have some more room to actually strengthen the arms from the top and bottom.
OK.
Bought a new swash plate, $6.99 – I think, just in case I would screw mine…
Took the heli apart:
1) Unscrew the tiny 2 screws on the lower drive gear (1~2 turns should be enough), to remove the upper blade.
2) Remove the linkage between the swash plate the lower blade, on the blade side only. Remove the tiny screws holding the blade to the shaft, now you can remove the lower blade.
3) Unhook the linkage from the swash plate, remove the swash plate.

Surgery.

Unfortunately, I did not take any picture during the modification. I hope, the drawing and the pictures of the swash plate in the heli will clarify what I mean.
I cut the arm in the middle of the part going straight out of the swash plate, and removed using sand paper (on the flat surface-my desk), from both ends, about 1/10 –th of an inch in total. (I think, it was a bit more, about 3 mm in my case). The original arm, measured from the ball to the other side of the swash plate, measures abount 1 inch, I measured 25.4 mm.
I glued carefully the arms back to the swash plate one by one, using first a bit of CA glue to fixate the shortened arms. I then, applied epoxy from each side to make the arms strong again. There is plenty of space on both sides to do that. The only thing you have to be careful about is not to glue the 2 plates of the swash plate together…
The modified arm is now 0.88 inch (22.4 mm) measured the same way.

Test.
It took me about an hour, and I made the first test. The heli moved fast to the back, and it required a mechanical adjustment on the linkage to the swash plate, as it did not move forward enough
The electronic trimming was not enough. Check, by pushing the go ‘forward stick’ on the transmitter, which linkage you need to adjust. Disconnect it from the swash plate, I needed to shorten it by about 6 full turns (clock wise, and .... there is a thread on the tiny links… yeah!).
The heli flies now about 3 times as fast forwards as before, it is faster going backwards and sidewards too.



Okinchi
Oct 13, 2008, 11:27 AM
make it what YOU want!
aristo1963's Avatar
I used a 6v 300ma walwart from radio shack and it works great.
Oct 13, 2008, 12:07 PM
Registered User
bluemeane's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Okinchi
I just did that yesterday....
Here is a different idea for modification to give the MCX some more speed and agility.

I went to the lhs and was ready to buy exactly what mmcginnis recommended, as the new swash plate cought my eye. To make it short, a friend says, hey, instead of cutting the little, tiny things on the swash plate, why do not you cut and shorten the swash plate arms! He did mean the 2 arms from the swash plate, that extend to the front of the heli.
Those arms are being used to move the swash plate per 2 push rods, which are attached to the servos on the other end.
Well, I though, compared with your mod, it should actually accomplish the same… The benefit though, the arms are a little bit bigger, not so tiny as the linkage with the balls.
Plus, you have some more room to actually strengthen the arms from the top and bottom.
OK.
Bought a new swash plate, $6.99 – I think, just in case I would screw mine…
Took the heli apart:
1) Unscrew the tiny 2 screws on the lower drive gear (1~2 turns should be enough), to remove the upper blade.
2) Remove the linkage between the swash plate the lower blade, on the blade side only. Remove the tiny screws holding the blade to the shaft, now you can remove the lower blade.
3) Unhook the linkage from the swash plate, remove the swash plate.

Surgery.

Unfortunately, I did not take any picture during the modification. I hope, the drawing and the pictures of the swash plate in the heli will clarify what I mean.
I cut the arm in the middle of the part going straight out of the swash plate, and removed using sand paper (on the flat surface-my desk), from both ends, about 1/10 –th of an inch in total. (I think, it was a bit more, about 3 mm in my case). The original arm, measured from the ball to the other side of the swash plate, measures abount 1 inch, I measured 25.4 mm.
I glued carefully the arms back to the swash plate one by one, using first a bit of CA glue to fixate the shortened arms. I then, applied epoxy from each side to make the arms strong again. There is plenty of space on both sides to do that. The only thing you have to be careful about is not to glue the 2 plates of the swash plate together…
The modified arm is now 0.88 inch (22.4 mm) measured the same way.

Test.
It took me about an hour, and I made the first test. The heli moved fast to the back, and it required a mechanical adjustment on the linkage to the swash plate, as it did not move forward enough
The electronic trimming was not enough. Check, by pushing the go ‘forward stick’ on the transmitter, which linkage you need to adjust. Disconnect it from the swash plate, I needed to shorten it by about 6 full turns (clock wise, and .... there is a thread on the tiny links… yeah!).
The heli flies now about 3 times as fast forwards as before, it is faster going backwards and sidewards too.



Okinchi
I was thinking the exact same thing and was going to do it todayafter work and post about it on here when done.. lol


Good Job! Video?
Oct 13, 2008, 12:15 PM
Space Cowboy
ShoGinn's Avatar
Lots of good mods here, but I have noticed with my mCX is that when any significant movement is countered just like the CX/CX2 you get flybar strikes etc.

I have added a video of one of the strikes that I get currently hehe.

The crash happens when you do pirouettes to the left and then try and add forward and roll cyclic.

I was trying to just do some circle pirouettes when that happened.

So with the addition of more cyclic do you notice more flybar strikes during transitions?



It is a long 2 minute video, just scan ahead to 2:10
Blade MCX With Crash (2 min 14 sec)
Oct 13, 2008, 12:40 PM
Registered User
Butters's Avatar
Wow.

Ok, long story short. . . . don't do that! LOL

Basically, with ALL duel rotor helis you risk blade strikes. And with that kinda of move it's a guarantee!

Any quick movement then directional change will cause the blades to strike.

Now I have read that with Walkera 5G6s people have machined new parts to extend the space between the upper and lower blades but the results have been mixed.

James
Oct 13, 2008, 12:42 PM
Space Cowboy
ShoGinn's Avatar
Ya I understand that the do that, I just had a video of my mistake

I just wanted to know what the benefits of the mods would be in concern with flybar strikes...
Oct 13, 2008, 12:49 PM
Registered User
Butters's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ShoGinn
Ya I understand that the do that, I just had a video of my mistake

I just wanted to know what the benefits of the mods would be in concern with flybar strikes...

In this thread? None.


I do tend to remember reading that a member was successful using earth magnets at the end of the blades so when the blades went to strike they would repel each other and the heli stayed in the air.
Oct 13, 2008, 01:21 PM
Random Pic #23982
Indiana_Geoff's Avatar
Might be a silly question from a Helicopter newbie, I am making an assumption, tell me if I am wrong.

I noticed that my blade flew very slowly forward, pretty well side to side and rather quickly backwards. Reading the manual, I made the assumption that a bit of nose weight would improve the forward movement. I added some and it improved a bit. Is this the right track? Or will cutting a bit of the tail boom do the same thing?

<yea I am a plane guy messing with the Center of Gravity>


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