blade 400 motor
Just in the process of replacing a few parts on my b400 after a fairly minor crash (feathering shaft/main gear). I noticed my motor feels a little 'crunchy' as I turn it manually - it never used to feel like that. Do you guys think it may be a bearing going out? Should I spool it up and try it? Thanks in advance for the help.
Try to open up the motor if you can. There's a reason for that noise. Hopefully, it is just something that fell inside of the motor can to remove.
Some time back, I had a bad tip over on a HBFP with a brushed motor that lock it up. I twisted the motor and got it moving again. On take off, about 4 feet high, the motor locked up again. Crash but those HBFP are tough so no damage but I went ahead and threw that $8 motor out before it caused more expensive damage. Similar lockup on a mini heli will cost you more than the cost of a new motor.
Here's a copy/paste from the B400 bible.. some helpful stuff in here.. including how to take the motor apart.
# 22- Motor
(If main motor dies...)
If you want the bearings for a Stock motor, then you can use Trex 600 Bearings 3x3x7mm, part number 683ZZ / H60086T which come in a pack of 4 for just a few bucks. I replaced mine, but the shaft was also worn and the motor still vibrated.
As for the Scorpion bearings, I suspect they're not much different in quality to all the other motor bearings. Motor bearings are real small and spin at a very high speed. I'm not surprised they don't last too long. I've seen some people talking about ceramic bearings which may be better, but they cost more.
Replacement motor and keep original ESC: Scorpion HK-2213-14
As a beginner around 250 -300 flights on my copter it started making a very ugly sound and landed it'self. Upon investagation it had puked the lower bearing in the motor. As a resourceful flyer I have become a fixit chep kind of guy as working on the enginering marvel that these are ,i'm is much into the mechanics as the flying although I prefer the flying. I found that the inner race was very easy to remove(after the almost invisable balls fell out), the outer race was Quite the challenge! With a dental pick I discovered there was nothing to grap onto or drive it out ,so I challeged a gunsmith friend of mine to pull the outer race. He tried to tap and pull the race with a 1/4 -28 bottom tap and discovered that it worked best on the alum just under the race. Put it in the lathe and couldn't touch the race(hand cranked) with a drill bit. So I brought it home and ground it out with a dental bit,drilled a hole in the alum. to bust it in 2. Now i'm ordering a bearing (2)from Boco Brearing (3x7x3) And I'll have an extra motor(bought a new motor) And the repair will be easyer next time but, I jones if I don't fly. It upset's me that E-flight dosn't make that bearing servicable as everything else seems to be. the upper bearing is just as bad but its not as tourqued upon as the lower. I'm 55 and this is my first real hobby and I love a challange. This fourm would be easyer with spellcheck!
Well, I went with the Scorpion HK-2213-14 instread of the 2221-8. The 213-14 seemed to be almost an exact replacement for the stock.
Stator Diameter 22 mm
Stator Thickness 13 mm
No. of Stator Arms 9
No. of Magnet Poles 6
Motor Wind 14 Turn Delta
Motor Wire 11-Strand 0.21mm (31 AWG)
Motor Kv3585 RPM / Volt
No-Load Current (Io)1.74A @ 10V
AmpsMotor Resistance (Rm)0.038 Ohms
Max Continuous Current 32 Amps
Max Continuous Power330 Watts
Outside Diameter27.9 mm
Shaft Diameter3.17 mm
Body Length25.6 mm
Overall Shaft Length47.5 mm
More options (another thread)
From Fishboy on the Scorpion 2216-12 (is it a drop in fit)
"Yup. The stock ESC is doing just fine with this motor. I think the stock ESC is good for what it is - a 25 amp ESC. The problem is that in the stock configuration (3800 kv motor with 10T pinion), it's overgeared. Combine this with a lack of a switching BEC and it's no wonder so many of them are overheating and going into thermal shutdown. The 2216-12 is a 3350 kv motor and I'm using a 10T pinion. So even though it can deliver more power than the stock motor, it will pull less current just flying around because the headspeed is lower."
Another opinion (Scorpion HK-2213-14 another drop it fit)
Needs NEW pinion.. 3mm.. but straight shaft. WILL work with stock ESC. I'm using the Scorpion HK-2213-14 with 10T along with a CC 35A (and a Sport BEC). I would say it's a darn near twin to the stock motor in terms of performance and battery use, but definitely not a performance upgrade. Bearings & shafts are easy to come by and the 2213-14 is cheaper than a replacement eFlight motor... Dynarace.
Helidirect and Esky brand replacement thread
I also got the Scorpion 35A ESC, but thought that I would simply try it with the Stock ESC first.
I put on a new 10T thinking that with the Scorpion motor having a slightly lower KV rating the rotor speed would be safe. To my surprise it took off at just about the same throttle setting, and responded the same. I'm no expert flyer, so can't say if there are any real differences. The flight time was exactly the same and both motor and ESC were only warm, so no problem there either. I may still fit the Scorpion 35A ESC later as the Stock is only 25A.
I'm a happy bunny. It was lower cost than stock and you can get replacement bearings and shafts which will mean no further full motor replacements in the future.
If and when I become more expert and need the extra power, then I'll certainly consider the 2221-8, but realize higher cost batteries and lower flight times will then be the penalty. (Tx to Paul530a)
I'm using these in my stock motor and haven't had any problems after 40 flights. The motor seems to run alot cooler too. http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.as...SMR73C-YZZ_AF2
Here's a video on replacing the bearings in a Scorpion
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