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Old Sep 28, 2008, 10:34 PM
mitchlandry is offline
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1/8 scale Mako 20 Center Console


So i decided and go ahead and give it a try.
Boat is a 1976 Mako 20 w/ 200 Hp outboard
The scale model will be 30" long with a 12" beam.
Start working on the plug for the fiberglass hull. I have an old K&B 3.5 cc outboard i might put on it, or i might try to obtain an electric outboard, not sure yet.

Any how, this is what i'm modelling except with some changes. These are pics at the previous owner's property, so they are fairly old. The homemade windshield was taken off the day I purchased it. The T-top is also homemade, i will most likely model something a little bit nicer and production quality.

The problem is that the boat is at storage, and i did not get a chance to go by and get measurements, so i did the plug from photo's. Looks decent enough to me for semi-scale

Any way, here some pics of the plug so far. I'm doing one 1/2 at a time then i will glue back together. I'm using the pink foam from Home Depot for the mold. Still have some work to do on the first half as well as fix some mistakes.
Last edited by mitchlandry; Oct 25, 2008 at 10:27 PM.
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Old Sep 29, 2008, 03:15 PM
trawlerlover is offline
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I think this is going to be a great build. Even if the boat isn't to perfect scale. I'm definitely going to be watching you the entire way. I have a question though, what kind of model building experience do you have?
Old Sep 29, 2008, 03:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trawlerlover
I have a question though, what kind of model building experience do you have?
Not much, i built 2 towboats from scratch a while back, but never finished them. 1, i ended up rebuilding the hull, plan on getting back to it soon, the 2nd needs the finishing detail work but runs. Scale boats are fun, i just have a hard time finishing all the detail once they are operational and have the basics.
Old Oct 01, 2008, 11:18 PM
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Question for all you fiberglass hull builders out there.
Is it worth the effort to have the chines in the mold for a 1-off, or should i just fiberglass a smoth v-hull and glue some chines on afterwards.

This is not a racing hull so I don't think there should be any noticable performance differences. I know that the chines should be pretty well defined and that poses a harder problem when i'm making the mold, since i have to account for the approximate hull thickness for them to look / behave correctly.

Thoughts?
Old Oct 01, 2008, 11:57 PM
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go with chines on the plug... (assuming you will pull a female mold off of it) the final product will be much better that way-

If the "plug" is actually a male mold, then you will want to wait and fair the chines into the hull itself... the 'glass will not take that sharp of an edge on a male mold (or really in a female mold for that matter without gelcoat or thickened resin)

Hope that was clear!

Edit: Actually, are you talking about the strakes on the bottom or the chines (which is the edge along the side and bottom)?
Old Oct 02, 2008, 12:01 AM
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Sorry, my mistake, i'm talking about the strakes, but i understand what your saying.

As far as the mold, i'm going to use this as a male mold. Don't see the need to use extra fiberglass to pull a female mold then make up the hull for a 1-off.
Old Oct 02, 2008, 12:15 AM
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For a one off, a male mold is a good way to go! If you were doing a production run that would be another thing!

In that case, I would definitly add the strakes after fairing up the bare hull... Much better that way!
Old Oct 09, 2008, 12:12 AM
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Just a little update.
Made the console plug, going to pull a lite-weight fiberglass shell from it.
Also cut the deck for the start of the hull cap. As far as the hull, haven't had much time with it, still need to sand 2nd half.
Old Oct 13, 2008, 12:10 AM
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Just posting up some more work on the cap. Going to pull a fiberglass hull cap as well instead of making all from wood. Need to put some filler in some places and fair the whole thing.

Idea is to have all the molds ready so when i start laying fiberglass, i can do all the pieces at one time.

Thinking of doing 2 layers of mat for hull and cap, with 2 layers of 2oz cloth for console. Hopefully, this will give me the strength and weight i'm looking for.
Old Oct 22, 2008, 12:20 AM
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Just an update for those interested in me building the plugs.
Hull cap and center console need a little bit more fairing.
Hull needs some more shaping, then the fairing will start.

Put the outboard up to the hull just to get an idea. I like it
May have to keep it nitro, even though, electric would be a lot less hassle.
Old Oct 22, 2008, 12:33 AM
SilentHunter is offline
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You are well on your way. Nice hull sculpting

If you have come this far, make it a femail mold, then you can sell the mold and have your boat.

Fill & sand, fill & sand , fill & sand, fill & sand, on and on. thats what good plugs are made from.
Old Oct 22, 2008, 12:40 AM
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Coming along nicely!
Old Oct 22, 2008, 12:43 AM
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Definately doing a female mold off the plug. Just try to decide what material to do the mold from. I have seen some examples with the urethane rubber for mold material. I have also seen some examples with using silicone rubber for the mold. Still researching as i work on the plug.
Old Oct 22, 2008, 07:39 PM
Boatfox is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mitchlandry
Just posting up ..... with 2 layers of 2oz cloth for console. Hopefully, this will give me the strength and weight i'm looking for.
Not to be a negative nancy about it, but that console will be more then a fight if you plan to glass the styro plug and come away with something light weight. Fiberglass just won't make those bends without lifting and Bondo will be required.
If you don't want to go the route of making a negative female mold and laying up the piece, skin the styro with styrene and paint it.
Old Oct 22, 2008, 07:47 PM
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Boatfox,

Yeah, the console will be a challenge. My backup plan for the console is either styrene or wood. I am going to atleast try to glass it, at least for the practice and experience.

This is also the reason i'm considering urethane for the mold. Will take the compound curves off the plug. Then when fiberglassing the mold, can use thickened epoxy with shredded glass to fill some of these areas, of course doing this will add some weight.

Another idea is to use the lost foam technique on the console. Lay the glass, then disolve foam from within new glassed piece.

All boils down to, I'm learning by trying


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