The Wings Maker Wingman II .40 ARF Review

Affordability, unparalleled ease of assembly, sport plane looks and performance and the operating ease of a low wing trainer coupled with the builder's choice of power makes for a fantastic all-around airplane and a fantastic bargain as well.

Classic box fuselage looks, high-tech radio.  The Wingman II is ready for fueling.

Introduction


Wingspan:50" (1270mm)
Wing area:484 sq. in. (31.2 sq. dm)
Wing type:Rectangular constant-chord with symmetrical airfoil and slight dihedral
Construction:Traditional balsa/ply covered with "ToughLon" polyester covering
AUW as advertised:3.5 lbs. (1.6kg)
Length:44.5" (1130mm)
Wing loading:18.66 oz/sq. ft. (529g/9 sq. dm)
Servos:Hitec HS-311 standard
Transmitter:Futaba 6EX FASST (FUTK6900, transmitter and receiver only)
Receiver:Futaba R606FS (FUTL7635, discontinued)
Receiver battery:Futaba/Sanyo 4.8v 1500mAh Ni-Cd
Engine as tested:Thunder Tiger GP40 (new/old engine, since discontinued)
Glow plug as tested:O.S. #8
Propeller as tested:Master Airscrew S-2 Series 10x6 "scimitar"
Fuel as tested:Byron's 15% nitro/18% oil
Optional electric motor:450W brushless outrunner, available as part of The Wings Maker electric power package
Optional ESC:45-ampere brushless
Optional battery:3200mAh 4S lithium-polymer with suitable charger
Available from:The Wings Maker
Catalog number:GA029
Retail price (USD):$79.99

Several members of my R/C club have planes from The Wings Maker and they love them. I happened to stumble across an ad for the company in a recent back issue of the AMA's Model Aviation magazine. One of the first things I happened to notice was the price of the models. Affordable, all. Nice looking, too. Ah, but 'twas the Wingman II which captured my heart.

The Wingman I is a high-wing trainer while the Wingman II is a low-wing "advanced trainer." To my way of thinking, that description translated into "potentially fast .40 sport plane with the GP40 up front."

An e-mail to Fai Chan of The Wings Maker was answered quickly and enthusiastically. The model was on my doorstep within days, shipped from AirBorne Models of nearby Livermore, distributors of The World Models brand of ARF aircraft. There are three color schemes available, namely green and white, red and white or yellow, which is actually red with yellow and orange trim and which Mr. Chan was kind enough to forward.

You have the option of electric or glow power with the aid of custom-fit installation kits, each sold separately. This means you don't have to pay for enclosed parts you don't use, and the kits are a perfect match to the airframe. The glow hardware package sells for US$9.99 and the electric version complete with a 450W brushless outrunner, prop and spinner sells for a very reasonable US$64.99.

We'll be assembling the Wingman II with glow power, so grab some tools, epoxy and CA and let's get started!

Kit Contents

Your new The Wings Maker Wingman II comes almost ready to fly with the following:

  • Fully covered fuselage, wing and control surfaces
  • Complete hardware package
  • Comprehensive assembly and setup manual
  • Decal sheet

You will need:

  • Basic hand tools
  • CA and epoxy
  • The Wings Maker engine hardware kit for glow power (GA027GPTS) or electric power package (GA027EPTS)
  • Four-channel or greater aircraft radio system with three or four standard servos
  • 6" servo extension for the aileron servo
  • Field equipment

Glow power will require:

  • .40 two-stroke aircraft engine
  • Suitable fuel for your particular engine
  • Propeller
  • Medium fuel tubing
  • Dope to protect the exposed wood in the engine compartment (not listed in the manual)

Electric power will require:

  • 450w brushless outrunner (provided with electric power kit)
  • 3200mAh 4S lithium-polymer battery
  • 45-amp ESC
  • Connectors of choice
  • Li-po compatible charger

Spinners are included with both power packages; an APC-style prop is included with the electric package.

Assembly

Wing

Assembly begins by attaching each aileron to its corresponding wing half. The built-up ailerons and hinges come preinstalled but unsecured and must be attached with thin CA. Be careful here: It's important to keep the gap between each aileron and the wing as narrow as possible. You'll discover why as you read on. I test fit the dihedral joiner to the two halves of the wing, and they fit perfectly so I mixed up some epoxy and joined the halves together. You're then instructed to install a pair of thin plywood spacers of differing heights to support the aileron servo. Once the epoxy is set, in goes the aileron servo. The front most and thinner of the two spacers delaminated somewhat as I attached the servo, but not enough to alarm me.

Connecting the servo arm to the aileron actuation levers is next. A nylon ring screws to the top of each of the levers; a clevis and precut piece of fuel tubing goes on the threaded end of the pushrod.

The Wings Maker saw fit to organize each hardware subassembly into its own numbered bag corresponding to the step in the manual which calls for it, which in my case was bag number three. All of the hardware necessary to complete each step is found in each bag.

I ran into two slight glitches in the manual. First, the illustrations showing the servo installation itself along with the pushrod setup was very small as was the photograph. Second, the hardware at the end of each rod at the servo arm is described as a "straper."

The "strapers" turned out to be clip-on pushrod clamps ("strappers," perhaps?), which meant that the pushrods had to be bent upward where they met the servo arm and trimmed for length. Completing the linkage and therefore the wing was as simple as slipping a second length of the tubing over each rod, attaching each rod from underneath the arm, clipping a clip-on clamp to each rod, attaching the servo arm to the servo and the clevises to the aileron torque rods and trimming each pushrod with a Dremel.

In short, this is one of the easiest ARF wings I've ever had the pleasure of completing. No muss, no fuss.

It's also a very light assembly with a minimum number of ribs, much like a high-performance electric park flyer. You'll definitely want to take care when handling the wing to prevent damage to the covering.

Tail

We now turn our attention to the bolt-on tailfeathers. There's no fear of misalignment and no fear of buying more parts than necessary for crash repair.

The elevator and its hinges attach first. I trimmed the covering away from the fuselage and didnít worry about making an incorrect cut: Each area on the fuselage which requires trimming of the covering is marked by a small green "sticky dot." The covering helps hold a wedge-shaped shipping plug in the horizontal stab slot which slides out once the cover is trimmed away. I temporarily attached the wing to the fuselage, sliding the stab in place and checking it for proper parallel alignment in relation to the wing. The bottom surface of the stab should be parallel with the top surface of the wing as viewed from the rear. The rudder is next, secured by CA hinges.

You'll need to remove a little bit of trim from the top to accept the tail's mounting tabs and a bit from underneath to open up the holes where the attaching bolts go. The latter doesn't have the aforementioned sticky dots to mark their location. Rather, a small pinhole over the proper location shows where a little bit of covering must be removed in order to attach the 3x60mm machine screws and 3mm washers found in bag number five. Pinholes are used on the stab as well. It took a little time to do so, but I managed at last to work the bolts up through the stab to where they would soon attach to the base of the tail.

Again, easy as pie with the hardest part being the alignment of the horizontal stab with the mounting holes. I finally got the bolts to slide up through the stab and out to the top, where they engage preinstalled blind nuts beneath the base of the tail.

Before turning our attention to the tail wheel, we're instructed to install the main landing gear on the fuselage. A sticky dot indicates where the covering will be cut away for installation of the very stout prebent struts. While the struts are rather sturdy, the mounting blocks aren't. Installation is straightforward, but special kudos should be paid to the wheels. Each has a preinstalled brass sleeve which acts as a bushing. As such, the wheels spin almost as freely as if they were on ball bearings and should do so for a long time to come. It remains to be seen how the foam tires hold up in the long run against all of that oily exhaust. Electric builders should have no problem.

I discovered that after a few landings (much smoother than the one you'll see in the video), the wood blocks used to secure the tops of the struts started to wear, resulting in some rather wobbly landing gear. When a new fuselage became necessary after the belly-flopping dead stick landing you'll read about farther down nearly broke it in half, I elected to install a beefy DU-BRO one-piece landing gear along with the corresponding axles and tires. Much better landings, but I soon discovered that the wood panel I'd mounted the gear to wasn't glued in too well. If you elect to try this, remove the panel and reattach it with some epoxy.

Returning to the tailwheel installation in step 7, you'll notice a prebent soft aluminum bracket in corresponding bag number 7. This is used to attach the tailwheel to the underside of the tail. Wonderfully simple, but be aware that you still have to install the pushrod horn. Be careful not to block the holes for the horn. I wasn't and I had to relocate the bracket later on.

Steps 8 and 9 along with bags 8 and 9 detail the installation of the elevator and rudder pushrods, clevises and horns. This is wonderfully straightforward, although the size of the horns and clevises seem a bit small for a .40 model. They certainly seem to be tough enough for the task, and the clevises have the extra added bonus of a metal retainer pin instead of a nylon one molded to the clevis.

Engine/Motor Installation

Where you go from here is determined by your choice of power. Step 10A is for an engine while step 10B outlines an electric motor installation.

Step 10A begins with installation of the four-piece nylon engine mount, secured with M3x20 allen head machine screws into preinstalled blind nuts. However, the surrounding wood is unprotected and, as I'd find out later, a real target for oil contamination. I would suggest assembling the 320cc fuel tank supplied by The World Models and sliding it into place. The klunk comes attached to a length of fuel tubing, but it seemed too small for the task and proved difficult to slide over the pickup tube, so a length of bulk silicone medium tubing was substituted. An 8x8x76mm piece of balsa is supposed to be epoxied in place to secure the tank, but such an installation would make it impossible to remove later. To secure the tank, I chose to stuff a piece of scrap Hobbico 1/4" foam under the rear of the tank, and I used a tiny bit of thin CA on only one side of the snug-fitting balsa retainer to hold it in place. A later flight found me with an inexplicably dead engine seconds after takeoff and a hard belly flop onto the end of the runway, breaking the fuselage nearly in half at the tail. The klunk had somehow twisted around to face backward as I discovered while attempting to repair the fuselage, and if I'd epoxied the brace in place, I would never have been able to remove the tank. Given the very affordable price of the new fuse coupled with the ease of the bolt-on tail surfaces, my suggestion would be to simply order a replacement rather than try and fix one as badly damaged as mine was.

I would suggest the purchase of some 3x25mm allen head bolts to mount the engine instead of the phillips head bolts supplied with the installation kit. You should also pick up some 3mm nylon locknuts while you're at it: I used the enclosed hardware, secured it with blue threadlocking compound and had a heck of a time removing the engine the next day in order to realign it.

Speaking of the engine, unless yours has a remote high-speed needle valve, you may need to take a Dremel and grind out a space for a carb-mount needle valve like I did.

Installing the throttle pushrod and its tube complete the engine installation. You'll have to remove the carburetor pushrod first.

Radio Installation

A pair of clear photos in step 11 show the exact location and orientation of each servo as well as the battery and receiver. Your choice of power determines what goes where. In the case of my engine installation, the receiver and battery are each wrapped in a supplied piece of foam and placed under an access hatch on the fuselage behind the trailing edge of the wing. I used a couple of tie wraps to hold the foam around each component, and I was more than pleasantly surprised to see how neatly both receiver and battery fit in the hatch. Don't forget to plug your 6" servo extension into your receiver's aileron channel: The use of an extension isn't specifically mentioned in the manual, but once it's wrapped up and tucked away, you won't be able to access the receptacle. Use of an extension will save your receiver in the long run in my opinion.

Our friends the "strapers" return for the securing of the elevator and rudder pushrods while an EZ-retainer with a screw-on post is supposed to be used for the throttle. Since I wanted to be able to fine tune the alignment of each component, I opted for Great Planes Screw-Lock Push Rod Connectors (GPMQ3871, bulk pack of 12). I sure did learn a hard lesson from the use of these connectors in the VQ Model Cap-10B .60 I reviewed here and lost after only ten flights due to one of these coming loose in flight. The fault was my own; I'd used a temporary nylon retainer on the elevator clamp instead of a permanent metal one. I've never had a clamp fail before or since, but I was taking no chances, and I used a metal retainer on each clamp.

I took a few moments to check the operation of the radio and perform a preliminary setup of the throw directions and rates. This is a plane which could be easily set up with a sport radio, but I figured a plane like this deserved a topnotch guidance system: the absolutely marvelous Futaba 6EX FASST transmitter.

Completion

Completion of the Wingman II begins in step 12 with the installation of the removable forward top and aft bottom fuselage covers. I admit to being a bit puzzled as to the function of the top panel until I popped it off, and I found myself looking at the top of the fuel tank. This isn't mentioned in the manual, but it is in fact the flight battery access for your electric-powered version while the aft cover secures the receiver and receiver battery for a glow-powered version as seen in the photos. I used the opportunity to add a bit more scrap 1/4" foam to either side of the tank in order to better secure it.

After I took the photos of the hatches and servo tray, I figured this would be a good time to test the engine and its linkage. I'm pleased to say that the GP40 fired up into a perfect idle and the throttle kill button on the 6EX worked perfectly.

Although the GP40 is no longer in production, it remains an excellent example of the type of engine one would find in almost any high-wing .40 trainer and one which someone stepping into a low-wing trainer/sport plane such as this might transfer over.

As for the latches themselves, they attach with some little 2mm bolts and locknuts. Although they aren't marked, there are some predrilled holes for the bolts just below the covering. The photo is a bit small, but it wasn't hard to figure out how to install the latches. Definitely worth keeping an eye on that bottom one as part of a regular preflight check. It holds well, but all that's standing between you and the possible loss of the panel (or worse) is that little scrap of nylon.

Step 13 shows the installation of the wing, which I'd referenced earlier in the build when I was aligning the tail. Like the engine, this might be a good place to use some 3x25mm allen screws instead of the supplied (and rather soft) hardware.

I was reluctant to cut away the covering and epoxy the plastic support in place since the darn thing is transparent! My solution was to leave the plate loose and retain it by sliding some scrap pieces of clear plastic blister packaging over the bolts.

You may have to open up the holes in the wing just a bit to get the bolts to align with the preinstalled blind nuts, as I did.

You're now down to the canopy installation with its four screws and the pressure-sensitive "Wingman II" decals for the sides of the fuselage. Since pressure sensitive decals should be installed by first spraying the surface of the model with water in order to make alignment easier, I did so. Once those decals were in place, the yellow outline around the letters faded to muddy, near-invisibility. I don't know if that was a result of the water or if the yellow outlining was simply too transparent, but the outline was still dulled days later. The canopy went on with no problem, but trimming the decals with scissors turned out to be a bit tricky; they're printed rather close together, especially near the optional The Wings Maker logo decals. The logos are rather attractive, and I applied them to the tail. I left the "Almost Ready-To-Fly" decals off, though.

Instead, I applied a couple of RCGroups.com decals to the wings, some Futaba decals to the nose and Futaba FASST decals to either aileron. Not only did these extra decals give the Wingman II an even racier look, the colors even matched the plane!

Step 15 is a double-check of the alignment of the control surfaces in relation to one another with the wing bolted in place. A-OK.

Steps 16 and 17 are the control throw and CG settings respectively. In keeping with the sport trainer spirit of the Wingman II, I set the initial throws as suggested. The rudder is set at 20mm, the elevator at 15mm and the rather narrow ailerons at only 6mm. That 6mm setting required 110% of throw, by the way. These are merely suggested as starting points and not as absolute settings. My preliminary setup included no exponential in order to duplicate the sort of operation one would expect from a sport radio.

The CG of the constant chord wing is 76mm/3" behind the leading edge of the wing, basically at the uppermost point of the airfoil's sweep. Out came my Great Planes CG Machine, on went an inverted Wingman II given its low-wing configuration.

It was tail heavy and then some, balancing more than halfway back from the leading edge. I removed the wing and aft access hatch, moved the battery pack to the rather generous area between the servo tray and fuel tank, put the wing back on and put the model back on the CG Machine. The plane balanced perfectly, with an ever-so-slight nose heavy attitude.

I have to admit that I wasn't entirely sold on the color scheme, but the finished productís Ferrari red, yellow and orange color scheme reminds me of a Ryan Spacewalker or perhaps a package of Black Cat firecrackers!

Flying

The maiden flight of the Wingman II began with installation of the wing and a reduced range radio check.

I was joined by a friend and part-time coworker for the occasion. Ken Alan is VP of Kaminsky Productions in Cathedral City, California. He's also an amateur radio operator (K6PSI), an avid videographer and has a definite interest in learning R/C flight. Ken had visited the field once before for high-def broadcast quality footage of models in flight; he'd given me a DVD of some of the footage of a couple of my own planes mixed with music. His is the footage you'll view on this review.

Taking Off and Landing

The Wingman II was airborne in a very short time, climbing out near vertical with only slight elevator input.

I sensed some fun was about to be had, and I was right.

The elevator was a bit sensitive and required a bit of down trim. The ailerons required some right trim as well, but once it was trimmed, it flew in that marvelously stable way a plane with a box fuselage seems to fly. Banking was extremely slow (more on that later) but coordinating turns with the responsive rudder and elevator helped make up for the slushy axial response.

It was also one smoking fast little sonofagun.

I "guesstimated" the top speed to be north of 80 mph (130km/h) on an engine that was running rich. The Wings Maker's lightweight construction really paid off in the guise of a plane which was so surprisingly quick as to be nearly out of sight before I even made my first turn. Straight and level would have been hands off if not for the wind.

Since this was the plane's first flight, I took it easy because of the wind and angle of the sun and to take it easier on Ken. A few circles around the pattern, a mushy victory roll or two, some 45-degree power dives to verify proper balance (it maintained heading, meaning it was balanced properly) a left turn from base to final and in she came for a landing.

Since the Wingman II is so light, the slightest application of throttle caused it to pitch up on approach. That first landing as seen on the video wasn't my best since several attempts to flare out before touchdown caused it to climb as well, but after a few more touch-and-goes, I was greasing three-point landings as if I'd been flying that model all my life. The constant chord wing isn't susceptible to tip-stalling and as a result, very little power was needed to bring it in. Avoid the temptation to flare early and you'll be rewarded with those three-pointers as well.

The ground handling proved to be rather nice, but whenever the wind kicked up even a bit, it had a real tendency to "weathervane." Full rudder meant full speed ahead despite a rather low, nearly zero-thrust idle. One touchdown before mid-runway nearly ended in the Wingman II continuing off the end of the runway; it refused to steer. I cut the throttle and hauled the rudder hard left before it could roll off into the desert.

Basics

Subsequent flights were made with the engine leaned out ever so slightly. I still had a nice, healthy exhaust trail, but the plane seemed faster still despite the fact that the exhaust tip insisted on rolling upward. Serious snugging with a Craftsman #2 phillips solved that problem, but another muffler-related problem awaited.

Sad to say, my day was cut short when the muffler retaining bolts came loose. I heard the engine running kind of loud and rough as I started the third flight of the afternoon, brought it in and saw that the muffler was hanging from the pressure line and that one of the bolts was gone. Since the muffler's mounting holes were threaded all the way through the mounting flange, I fixed the problem at home with a couple of leftover O.S. 3x35mm allen head muffler bolts and some 3mm lockwashers from an Evolution 46 gasket set. That muffler is on to stay.

As for the plane itself, the only problem I saw was that the yellow trim along the side of the fuselage had come loose, especially up near the engine. The covering on the rudder had relaxed a bit as well, but I view that as normal. A quick application of the covering iron at home solved those issues.

My experience with a Thunder Tiger PRO 40 leads me to believe that TT engines tend to sling some serious oil from places other than the exhaust pipe while running; some got on the unprotected wood within the engine/motor compartment. Before too long, I plan to remove the engine along with the mounts and apply some dope to the area per my own suggestion in the assembly section.

To conclude, just boring holes in the sky - some very fast holes - was one heck of a lot of fun.

Aerobatics/Special Flight Performance

My first attempt at a victory roll was met by a sluggish, altitude-losing glop of a roll, a real contrast to the response of the elevator and rudder.

A simple roll from straight and level flight nearly spelled the end of the model, even with up elevator. It rolled into a power dive instead of on its axis, proof once again that altitude is your friend when wringing out a new model. The model simply didn't roll as I felt it should have despite being set with the recommended aileron throws and 110% servo travel.

I pitched the nose up before rolling it on its back to check inverted flight. The symmetrical airfoil meant almost no down elevator was required to keep the Wingman II flying level. I didn't want to risk the model by rolling it upright while it was level, so once more I pitched the nose up with a bit more down elevator, and the Wingman II rolled to regular flight once more after what seemed like an eternity.

The slow roll characteristics made me leery of attempting a Cuban Eight, so I did a big loop instead. The plane tracked through an intentionally large loop as if it were on the proverbial rails.

Still, I wasn't pleased with the roll rate. A fellow flyer thought the gap between one of the ailerons and the wings might have had something to do with it.

I cut off the aileron at the hinges later that day, reinstalled it with new hinges and temporarily sealed the gap with ordinary Scotch tape which was much better, but the eventual solution was the use of 3M Transpore surgical adhesive tape and screwing the clevis receptacles atop the torque rods a little farther down, giving me some more mechanical advantage. The ailerons now deflect fully, and the tape completely seals the gap.

Subsequent flights with this setup have been a real joy. It rolls well enough to pull off some really rock solid maneuvers requiring rolls such as Cuban Eights, victory rolls and Immelmann turns. Rolling to easily controlled inverted flight is no longer an altitude-losing study in wracked nerves, although there's still the issue of engine torque on left-hand rolls. Vertical climbs are nearly straight up for as long as you'd like to make the Wingman II climb. It even does a halfway decent knife edge, much to my surprise.

Another thing I'd later discover was the difference in control feel going from the Futaba back to a four-channel sport radio since I needed the receiver on a more advanced model. Do yourself a favor and invest the money you save buying the Wingman II over an expensive model and get yourself into a good radio like the 6EX. It really does make a difference.

Is This For a Beginner?

Low-wing planes in general aren't recommended for raw beginners, even with the aid of an instructor. For those just starting out who might find themselves yearning for one of these beauties, start with the high-wing Wingman I and work your way up. Pilots with previous aileron experience should have no trouble making the transition, especially in light of the gentle roll rate.

Flight Video/Photo Gallery

Downloads

Conclusion

The The Wings Maker Wingman II (yes, there are two "thes") excels in pretty much everything, from build quality to overall flight characteristics.

Part of the model's charm lies in its simplicity. Itís basic, lightweight, relatively nondescript and even a bit tame looking. But hit the throttle and this flying Kia Rio leaps forward like a Chevrolet Corvette Z06 with straight-line performance seemingly hot enough to peel off the ToughLon covering.

Don't worry about having to replace that covering, or anything else on this plane for that matter. This company stands behind their products now and in the future; they continue to stock parts for even their discontinued models. Best of all, the prices are right.

With proper setup, this plane should make a darn good pylon racer, at least against similar aircraft. Clubs, take note: There may be no better way than the Wingman II to spark interest in a new low-cost pylon racing category.

Once the club sets up its new pylons, I plan to try and go fast and turn left. I'll report back in the comments section.

It is with pleasure that I give the The Wings Maker Wingman II an enthusiastic two thumbs-up. You'd be hard-pressed to find an ARF in this price range which is as much fun to fly.

Goodness abounds in the Wingman II. Among the goodness:

  • Affordable purchase price
  • Excellent craftsmanship
  • Very good hardware package
  • Numbered hardware bags keep things organized and help speed assembly
  • Excellent manual
  • Steady, predictable flight characteristics, excellent for modelers moving to a low-wing
  • Incredibly fast as tested
  • Choice of glow or electric power
  • Separate glow and electric installation kits means not having to pay for hardware you don't need
  • Choice of high contrast color schemes, easy to see in flight
  • Excellent customer service
  • Excellent parts availability at affordable prices, including covering
  • Bolt-on tail section means easy alignment and easy replacement
  • Did I say it was incredibly fast as tested?

Minuses are minor:

  • Experienced pilots will find the roll rate to be painfully slow
  • Decals are too close together on the sheet, making trimming difficult
  • Yellow outline on the "Wingman II" decals is semitransparent and looks muddy on the model
  • Engine/motor area is unprotected and should be doped if using an engine
  • Heat from the engine may lift the trim from the fuselage; doping the exposed wood helps prevent this
  • Foam tires may not hold up well if exposed to fuel
  • Control horns and clevises seem small for a .40-sized model
  • Spinner cone fits a bit loose on the backing plate
Last edited by Angela H; Mar 16, 2009 at 08:58 PM..
Thread Tools
Mar 17, 2009, 07:26 PM
Grumpa Tom
Kmot's Avatar
That's a very good looking airplane. Nice review!
Mar 18, 2009, 10:45 AM
Pronoun trouble...
DismayingObservation's Avatar
Thread OP
Thanks, bro. The fuselage in the photos was damaged on a low-altitude dead-stick landing; it belly-flopped hard tail first and broke nearly in two. Rather than fly a glue bomb, I contacted Fai Chan up in San Jose and he sent me a new fuse for 40 bucks. It was on my doorstep in just a couple of days. I have around thirty flights on the new fuse with only one modification: I added some Du-Bro landing gear and reinforced the wood it's mounted on with epoxy. I honestly dig this little plane and the price plus the parts support make it the bargain of the century IMO. I'm looking forward to maybe wringing out a .60 of theirs. I know someone with a World Models Extra with a .60 which is just plain dynamite.
Last edited by DismayingObservation; Mar 18, 2009 at 05:10 PM.
Mar 18, 2009, 12:21 PM
Dr. Dave
The review was well done. Thanks for the detail.
Last edited by 78dave; Mar 18, 2009 at 05:58 PM.
Mar 18, 2009, 05:10 PM
Pronoun trouble...
DismayingObservation's Avatar
Thread OP
Thanks, Dave. Per your last post, I didn't want to mention that other company by name since that would have been really unfair, but it was really difficult to deal with them, to put it charitably. I've stricken my comment from the last post.
Last edited by DismayingObservation; Mar 18, 2009 at 07:00 PM.
Mar 18, 2009, 05:58 PM
Dr. Dave
No problem Ralph, you did a great job with the review. You are right Fai is great to work with and the products are awesome. I have the .60 fly boy and agree with you on the roll rate. Just enough dihedral to slow things a bit.
Mar 18, 2009, 07:05 PM
Pronoun trouble...
DismayingObservation's Avatar
Thread OP
Thanks again. In fact, I may just e-mail Fai and let him know the article's finally up after the delay in getting the video compressed to something useable. All that wonderful 720HD resolution was squashed to a doggoned AVI file. Oh, well. Lesson learned.
Mar 19, 2009, 03:06 PM
Registered User
I've got a Magnum 52fs that needs a home, is the plane light enough for this motor for decent performance?
Mar 19, 2009, 09:09 PM
Pronoun trouble...
DismayingObservation's Avatar
Thread OP
Ohhh, yes. I'd say it would be a rocket with that big a mill up front. It's very lightweight; the fuselage is mostly latticework with little sheeting. I think it's to help keep the weight down anyway since it can be built as an electric. The weight is practically nil.
Mar 19, 2009, 09:39 PM
Registered User
Just to make sure, I'm talking a Magnum .52 four stroke, not the Magnum .52 two stroke. You think the four stroke will be a good match?
Mar 20, 2009, 11:14 AM
Pronoun trouble...
DismayingObservation's Avatar
Thread OP
Ah, my bad. I thought you were referring to a two-stroke. That's a darn good question and one I'm not entirely sure of. I do know that the plane is plenty light given that it's designed for electric power. It would probably fly just fine on a .25 two-stroke, so my guess is that you'd be OK. It's slightly smaller than my old Raiden Tech Zero Fighter-25 and that thing used to really honk with an O.S. LX25.
Mar 21, 2009, 12:00 PM
Got shenpa?
flieslikeabeagle's Avatar
Nice review!

Do you happen to know what if any the connection between "The Wings Maker" and "The World Models" is? Same initials, similar clunky syntax, and apparently both are distributed by the same US distributor (Airborne Models).

Not to mention, the "The Wings Maker Wingman II" looks an awful lot like a slightly scaled-down "The World Models Skyraider Mach II".

-Flieslikeabeagle
Mar 26, 2009, 01:15 PM
Procrashtinating Builder
mastrsn's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by flieslikeabeagle
Nice review!

Do you happen to know what if any the connection between "The Wings Maker" and "The World Models" is? Same initials, similar clunky syntax, and apparently both are distributed by the same US distributor (Airborne Models).

Not to mention, the "The Wings Maker Wingman II" looks an awful lot like a slightly scaled-down "The World Models Skyraider Mach II".

-Flieslikeabeagle
That's what I was gonna say- I'm not entirely sure they're not the same model. They look too close for it to be a coincidence. If you like flying these birds gas, you'll love them electric!

The World Model's "Sky Raider"- Electrified (5 min 15 sec)
Mar 26, 2009, 02:33 PM
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DismayingObservation's Avatar
Thread OP
I'd have to agree. This absolutely looks like the same model with different covering. That's certainly not a bad thing and the video makes it clear that it really sizzles as an electric.
Mar 26, 2009, 03:40 PM
Registered User
Yes, I was thinking it bears an uncanny resemblance to a Sky Raider, too. But, as you say, no bad thing as the Raider is an excellent intermediate aerobatic trainer with no big investment if you prang it.


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