Montana Modelworks Combat MiG 3 build - RC Groups
Thread Tools
Sep 19, 2008, 09:17 PM
Registered User

Montana Modelworks Combat MiG 3 build

Montana Modelworks, has a great line of foam planes that are designed for slow combat. They are very easy and inepensuve to build. If you don't want to fly combat, they are excellent sport planes that you can just toss into your car. These planes fly great and are extremely rugged. They're not 3D foamies, but are very maneuverable. They can actually handle a pretty stiff wind.

This thread will show building the MiG 3 combat model. Photo 1 shows the finished model and photo 2 shows how the plans look. Let's start building. This won't take long.

Photo 3 shows the parts cut out. I prefer to use 6mm Depron for the wing and tail surfaces and 1/2" foamboard for the fuselage (available at the big hobby/craft stores). I've used Blue Fan Fold Foam instead of Depron with good success. The Depron, however is flatter and stiffer. It is worth the money. I have also built the fuselage from Blue foam and Depron (both 1 and 2 thicknesses). Two thicknesses of 1/4" foam weigh about the same as the 1/2" foamboard, but it is more work and not nearly as stiff. The 1/2" foam board does not twist at all. It's really the way to go.

A word about glue. I use mainly hot glue & white craft glue made for plastic. The craft glue is light and remains pliable. It is similar to Pace Canopy glue. I've also used epoxy, but it's a bit expensive.

Separate the control surfaces as in photo 4. Note the bevel cut. Photos 5 - 7 show the balsa wing spars and gluing them into place. If you have any doubts about the strength of a foam wing using balsa spars instead of carbon fiber, pictures 9 and 10 should remove any concern. That's an 8 (eight) pound dumbell (no relation) on the wing. It deflects, but does not break (no cracking noises either). The wing snaps back to it's original shape immediately after the weight is removed. It ain't gonna break.

Next installment will start assembly.
Last edited by ScottN3N; Sep 19, 2008 at 11:18 PM.
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Sep 19, 2008, 11:16 PM
Registered User
Install the wing and horizontal tail without their control surfaces using white craft glue. Make sure everything is sraight.

Pictures 1 & 2 show cutting the slot for the vertical tail. Remove the foam in the slot with a small screwdriver.

Attach the rudder to the vertical fin with packing tape prior to installation as in photo 3. Use a good quality 2" tape.

Glue the vertical tail into the slot with craft glue as in photo 4. Also install the ailerons to the wing with packing tape. Note the bevel cut for the control surfaces. Have at least 30 degrees of control movement both ways.

Make four control horns (picture 7) from balsa and 1/16" ply.

Install the elevator (pictures 8 & 9) as shown using packing tape. I prefer hot glue for the elevator joiner and control horns. Glue the control horns directly to foam - trim the packing tape as needed.

Install the motor mount. A firewall mount and a stick mount are both shown depending on your motor. Picture 10 shows the stick mount.

The airframe is now complete as in picture 11.

Paint the model as desired - photo 12. Make sure the paint will not attack the foam. I use either spray paint for plastic models or spray latex paint such as Krylon H2O. The model paint is more expensive, but gives a much better choice of colors.

The next installment will complete the model with the radio and motor system.
Sep 20, 2008, 12:05 AM
Registered User
We're on the home stretch. A couple evenings and we've got a plane that Gumby would love.

Motors: A GWS 350c drive system will fly these models with a streamer, but you'll want more power. The 400 size is much better. My preference is the VERY INEXPENSIVE outrunner from Tower Pro. You can get them for about $7 and a 30 amp simple speed control for about $9. They have plenty of power and are virtually disposable.

Mount the motor as apppropriate per the type mount used. Connect the ESC and attach it to the fuselage with hot glue or velcro. (I prefer velcro).

Cut out the holes for the servos as shown. I prefer the 9 gram size for these planes. Make sure they do not interfere with the ailerons. make sure you center the aileron servo before installation. Glue them in with hot glue.

There are several options for pushrods. I bend the aileron pushrods from .055" wire and hold them on with 1/16" wheel collars.

The rudder & elevator pushrods can be made several ways. I just bend them from .055" wire because it's easiest. They flex a bit, but work fine. A stiffer option is to use a 3/16" dowel or carbon fiber rod.

Connect the servos & ESC to the receiver. Hot glue the receiver to the fuselage. I like to wrap the receiver & servo leads with masking then glue them to the fuselage. That keeps everything up against the fuselage & does not get glue on the components. Just peel off the tape if you want to reuse something.

Put some velcro on the nose for the battery. Mount the battery far forward for CG reasons. Check the CG & make sure everything is going in the right direction. Control deflections should be about 30 degrees.

The pictures show various shots of the motor & radio installation.

Poke a hole in the back of the fuselage and loop a piece of string around the rudder. Attach a creppe paper streamer & you're ready to do battle. They fly at moderate speeds and will handle a pretty stiff breeze.

The goal of these planes is to be as inexpensive as possible and maximize performance and fun. This is a very easy way to try RC combat. The planes fly great & are so easy & cheap to build that you don't get too upset if you destroy it. The fuselage is usually what gets damaged. The wings & tail can easily be reused with a new fuselage. RC combat is the most fun you can have and not get arrested. Give it a whirl.
Oct 05, 2008, 07:59 AM
D'oh.. Dumb Left Thumb
dekan's Avatar
Its a shame that everybody ignored this thread. I would have thought somebody would have posted...Maybe it should have been in Parkflyers or Kits
Oct 12, 2008, 11:43 PM
Registered User

MiG-3 in action

A movie of the MiG-3 alone & against the F4F Wildcat. (hey, use your imagination)
Oct 13, 2008, 12:08 AM
"It's a Quad" :O
thewz's Avatar
Great plane....I may have to "phlaten" it for my PhatPrinter!
May 24, 2009, 04:26 AM
Funder Struck
TexasTC's Avatar
Holy necro bump...... but its needed, looks like Ive found my next build
May 24, 2009, 05:56 AM
Build it again, Sam!
Harpye's Avatar
Not ignored ... I read over it one time, for I was interested in that mig 3 but as I dont like flatties....#
I prefere this one.... ( mine)

May 24, 2009, 07:01 AM
D'oh.. Dumb Left Thumb
dekan's Avatar
Super job
May 24, 2009, 10:32 AM
Funder Struck
TexasTC's Avatar
Originally Posted by Harpye
Not ignored ... I read over it one time, for I was interested in that mig 3 but as I dont like flatties....#
I prefere this one.... ( mine)

show off..... awesome job sir!!!!
May 24, 2009, 01:25 PM
Build it again, Sam!
Harpye's Avatar
Thanks guys: For this was my first "big project" in EPP ( the bird has about 64" WS) - I'm really satisfied!

MIG 3 Maidenflight (1 min 9 sec)

Sorry about the music .. for I didn't want to cross anyones copyright I made it myself ... the first attempt ...

-> and satisfaction causes other projects following...:

Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Mini-Review Mig-3 Build - Mega Power orectolobus Scale Kit/Scratch Built 388 May 23, 2014 02:39 AM
Discussion 10 oz 32" Mig 3 - stick build with plans Mannock Scale Kit/Scratch Built 4 Sep 10, 2008 08:20 PM
Sold Magnum Models..Mig-3 Combat Slope Fighter kitekook Aircraft - Sailplanes (FS/W) 4 Apr 28, 2008 05:17 PM
Rave MiG-3 Build (With Retracts) Insagor Scale Kit/Scratch Built 338 May 29, 2006 06:36 PM
need instructions for LEG Mig-3 build dhauch Slope 4 Feb 03, 2005 10:40 PM