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Sep 17, 2008, 09:38 AM
Todays a good day to fly
Jam Rectified's Avatar
Thread OP
Build Log

*** Logo 600 3D Build Thread ***

Just bought myself a Logo 6003D kit so I thought I would see if there was much interest in a build thread...I'll use this to document the build and ask any questions that I have.
I know the Finless vids are excellent and give you a lot of info and I have watched them myself but I also like to see pictures so you guys might aswell?

Feel free to chip in with any suggestions / advice / questions etc or if you want some specific pictures or details then I will try to help out..

I won't be rushing this as I don't have so much spare time at the moment so no nagging me OK

I am heading for a 10S setup (Haven't got the batteries yet)
Z50A 800 (780Kv) Motor
3 x futaba 9252 cyclic servos
401 / 9254 tail control
620mm NHP Razor blades

Along with the kit, which I ordered from (I am in no way affiliated with them) I also ordered the Mikado Futaba servo arms which are apparently required (4021), the additional counter bearing which is recommended for outrunner moters (4134), a 13T pinion for the motor (4213) and the cfc tail belt tensioner (4175)..Very friendly and helpful service from Rev models, ordered Saturday and arrived Tuesday

Here is a few pics of box and inside..Sorry I didn't bother snapping the canopy..
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Sep 17, 2008, 10:08 AM
Todays a good day to fly
Jam Rectified's Avatar
Thread OP
As suggested in the Finless Bob build videos I started out by having a close inspection of the plastic frames...I was slightly disappointed to see that there was a fair amount of flashing from the moulding process that needed sorting out...Its not a big deal and I just used some 600 grit wet and dry paper and went all over it...Took about 20 mins to do both frame halves but it was definitely worth the effort to tidy it up and get rid of the sharp edges..

Things I like about the manual:
1. Little scale drawings of all the bolts and nuts and bearings etc to make sure you use the right bits...
2. Very clear what you need to get from each bag..

Things I don't like about the manual:
1. There have been some changes to the kit - metal motor mount etc which slightly effect the hardware being used but the manual hasn't been updated to show that.
2. There is one manual covering 500DX/3D and 600DX/3D so whilst there are some pages that are model specific 6003D tail assembly etc, there are also others that are a kind of hybrid and it doesn't make it totally clear..
3. The first job of putting the frames together uses a few different size bolts...Some are labelled on the diagram in the manual but others are turns out to be pretty obvious (I hope) but I can't understand why they weren't all labelled..seems inconsistent..

Anyway...back to the build...the 2 belt tensioners that sit in the frames are dead simple to put together, 4 bearings, 4 plastic spacers and the little metal rod that holds them in place...Everything fitted together very well indeed with no binding or slop...As mentioned in the build vids, make sure that the little raised part on the plastic spacers is facing the bearing and sitting on the inner race (see pic)..
Other than that putting the frames together is pretty straight forward..a little fiddly but hey ho...Shoe Goo to hold the main shaft bearing in, loctite in the metal to metal joints..

I did have one query..there are 3 aluminium supports that fit in the frames at the bottom, these are hexagonal in cross section..(Like on a raptor but longer) Well I was quite surprised to find that the section of the frame they sit in was not hexagonal but just round I studied the drawing in the manual and that does show a hexagonal cross section also but my frames just had a round hole...Its probably of no consequence but I wondered if thee was a reason for it or if anyone else noticed it...I am a bit of a stickler for the detail!!!

Anyway...I've bored you enough..have some more pictures Frames are all put together and they seem dead solid but nice and light..
Sep 17, 2008, 10:19 AM
brian94066's Avatar
Sep 17, 2008, 01:42 PM
RC4Life not just 4 xmas
p4ddy's Avatar
very nice.
Sep 17, 2008, 01:57 PM
Registered User
Greybird's Avatar
Hey Jam, Glad you decided on a build thread.
Sep 17, 2008, 05:42 PM
ShuNut's Avatar
Heeeeeeeeey, congrats Dude .

I'm sure my frames are hexagonal, but not sure, shall i be not too lazy, get up and look ? .......... Dam it..hang on ..............

Ok, just took 2 bolts out and you cant tell cus the metal hexagonal thing is still inside and wont come out, but thinking back i'm sure when i put one of the hexagonal things in i tested to see if it would turn or not & it didn't, so i'm sure my frames are hexagonal, plus if i only take out one bolt it doesn't spin.

Wonder if you got a DuD, or if they for some unknown reason changed the design. I Hope my new kit doesn't have duds (although i wont be using the frames as old one if fine)

Sucks to hear the Manuel is still crap, why cant they just do separate manuals for the different models ? i mean how hard is it ? plus it would save paper.

Anyway, good luck with the rest of the build.

Sep 18, 2008, 04:28 AM
RC4Life not just 4 xmas
p4ddy's Avatar
They can do it, but i reckon they'd put the kit price up another 20 to get back the cost as if it aint dear enough already
Sep 18, 2008, 04:29 AM
RC4Life not just 4 xmas
p4ddy's Avatar
I'm sooo looking foward to the maiden & it's not even MY heli. Will it be using 2 x 5s Zippys ? I want ShuNut to hit 150 flights & then say how they're holding up.
Sep 18, 2008, 08:01 AM
Registered User
laughingstill's Avatar
I built a Logo 500 and 600 and I really cannot remember if the holes were round or hexagonal It won't matter though as the frames are not dependent on whether the holes are one way or the other. I am glad you are doing a build thread, enjoy the build and have a great maiden ......Ron

BTW I would go with the outrage batteries when you decide on buying some. Also what are you using to power the electronics?
Sep 18, 2008, 12:10 PM
Todays a good day to fly
Jam Rectified's Avatar
Thread OP
Thanks everybody....I haven't made any progress today..just got in after and 11 hour day at work...
Re the hexagonal holes...I didn't think it would make any difference and when I tightened the bolts I don't think the hex pieces moved so maybe there is a little hex section inside..Not a biggy so hey ho..

Lipos...Well I have heard that those outrage ones are very good but they are also damn expensive....I am going to start of nice and easy with this big heli so I am most likely going to get 4 of those 5S Zippy Lipos and rig them up in series...I don't do 3D so I am not after extreme performance...I may even use this as an AP ship in the future...

Good question about how am I going to power the electronics...Well I know that the 401/9254 and the 9252s are only rated for that part is simple...But really haven't decided yet whether to go for a ubec or something or a separate pack and a regulator...The way I see it is that the separate back is all well and good but it is a bit extra weight...a ubec or something means that you might lose control if the battery voltage gets low..but as someone has rightly said..if thats the case then you are pretty screwed anyway...I guess that if I think forward in terms of this becoming an AP ship then I will have quite a few things to power so a separate pack / regulator would be the way to go for that but...
I don't know..what do people think..I haven't ordered the lipos or the ubec or receiver pack / regulator yet....
Sep 18, 2008, 02:13 PM
ShuNut's Avatar
I'd go with the separate power supply if i were you.
They both have there advantages and disadvantages but for me the separate is a much safer option.

With my logo after a few weeks i was hovering in normal, flicked into idle 1, then exactly as i flicked into idle 2 the motor cut, heli was about 20ft up and i was like oh sh**, so i just let it come down and flared just before it landed, all was well with the landing.
Walked over to the heli and saw one of the lipo wires had came off, bad soilder joint. So if i hadn't been using a separate lipo a crash would have occurred.

The extra weight is nothing, i use small 1700mAh lipos with i got from u-hobbies (mad cheep), i got them not knowing if they'd be good enough but thought hey ill just em for something else if not, but they work fine, i normally do around 6 flights of each pack but most i did was 9 and still taking only around 75% out.
I read around seeing what others prefer before deciding but its seems like 50\50.

Sep 18, 2008, 09:30 PM
Logo 600's are so light and powerful that the extra battery for powering electronics has just about zero effect on the flying characteristics..
Sep 18, 2008, 10:24 PM
rroback's Avatar
I thought my 600 was the easiest build I've ever done.

Sep 18, 2008, 10:30 PM
Psurvival = 1/ThArrival
osterizer's Avatar
Mine, too. It costs a bit, but it went together perfectly, and I'm still impressed with the quality of manufacture of all the parts. Very, very nice helicopter.
Sep 20, 2008, 01:34 AM
Registered User
Nice thread Personally I would save abit more dough though and go with some Outrage packs, the 600 is a beast with the right combos. If you can't afford it and it is not an option, then certainly consider it in the future, lipos make a huge difference!

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