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Discussion
Gorilla Glue; anyone using this?
I originally purchased a small bottle of this wonder stuff to hold a woodruff key on of all things, a railroad lift bridge main lift motor across the lock canal in Zanesville Ohio. I then tried some GG on a Guillows Champ I'm fiddling with now. So far it seems to work fine but an not sure about the weight it's adding. One must use very tiny amounts since it expands around 3:1 when dried/cured. It does sand nice and is a welcomed break from the CA fumes. My building style has changed since the curing time is hours instead of seconds. I have noticed the structure seems stronger since this glue is somewhat flexible when cured compaired to CA.
Anyone else tried this glue? Dan |
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Have used PU glues for a long time in woodworking. I have found that joints need to be clamped or otherwise held in place or the foaming will 'push' things apart. But, it does work well. It is also excellent on wood to metal bonding on all kinds of things. Waterproof too.
I still use std wood glue (water resistant type) for most stuff during a build. charlie |
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Gorilla Glue is great for skinning foam wings. Spread a thin layer on the foam core, and give the wood skin a little mist of water, and you ain't gonna pull that skin off the core! Foams more with moisture present. When I glue wing core ends to wood like on a Corsair wing, I'll drill small holes in the foam, when the glue expands it makes a little "glue nail" into the foam.
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The newer varieties only take one hour to cure.
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I use it for 95% of my joints , the other 5% are 30 min epoxy.
You can make fillets at joints by laying a plastic tube of the correct radius along the joint , the PU will expand to the tube . It takes some trial and error getting the right amount of glue to make the fillet and no more !! |
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Dan,
For wood to wood construction, I don't think there is any reason to use PU glues like Gorilla glue. You would be better served by Aliphatic resin wood glues (Titebond) for general purpose bonds at an inexpensive price and Ambroid for waterproof, sandable joints (like planking). Both of these glues dry slower than CA, but the nice part is the drying time is just about right by allowing a minute or so of repositionability and "sighting", then they start to grab a bit more. The AR glues should be left pinned/clamped overnight to make sure they fully cure before stressing. That being said, the other great uses of gorilla and similar glues have been mentioned here for bonding foam and composites and wood together. Hope this helps. Mike |
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Thanks for the info on the Aliphatic resin glues. I have read IIRC that it is one of the lighter glues for small models. I bought some Sumo glue but don't like the clogging of the applicator tip and the somewhat soft surface when cured. It is like sanding rubber. Ambroid is popular on my bench and has been used after CA for fillet joints. A CA applicator fits over the end of the tube and does a fine job of adding strength to the brittle CA joints. As Charlie mentioned about GG, one must pin everything. I made that mistake with a 1/16" sq rib on the elevator of the 24" Champ. No need to pin something that is held fast on its own I thought. Wrong. The next morning to errant rib was replaced and pinned to keep from being pushed away from the plan from the expanding lava. Mike, was that you that had the little bubble on the end of the thin plastic tube applicator where you kept the end of it in a small condiment cup filled with water? I saw that somewhere and think that's the cat's meow for gluing. I wish you could see me handle a bottle of GG with a 1/8" hole! I'm going to get some Titebond and leave the GG for fixing massive railroad bridges.
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Gorilla glue is wonder glue for 3D foamies. I can come home after a humiliating wreck and have it ready to go in less than 1/2 an hour. The foaming works to its advantage if it's used sparing in the seam and the surface excess is wiped clean. Blue masking tape holds things together while it sets. I can humiliate myself many times with the same plane without adding noticable weight and many repairs are invisible. Denatured alcohol gets it off my hands when I get sloppy. Gorilla glue is great inside damanged styrene cowls too. Its foaming builds up stiffness by way of thickness while keeping the weight down.
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G.G. Precision Glue Pen - A small applicator bottle/tube using a clear liquid that dries foamy white; sets well in about 1 1/2hr, is fairly flexible and will push some excess out of the joint which may need to be wiped off, depending, and the joint does need to be held fast during the cure. It adds very little weight and can be applied with a toothpick or spread with a wood stir stick in areas too small for the outlet tip. It's great for wood/foam bonds - that's the majority of my building materials.
I still keep the Titebond for specific areas and higher strength joints with wood. |
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I find Gorilla Glue works real well when laminating wingtip and tailfeather outlines. I usually soak my lamination strips in hot water for a few minutes, so a thin coat of glue in between the strips and then taping them to the form, causes the glue to foam up and set hard. Once I remove then from the form, they look a mess, but a minute of flat sanding and another minute of sanding a rounded edge and you get a near perfect outline piece. Extra strong to resist the stresses of covering shrinkage and the abuses of my poor piloting skills.
sp |
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Several years ago I played around with 2L water rockets; I learned that PU glues could produce very strong bonds between parts made of the PET plastic soft drink bottles. It involves a very simple trick; sand the bonding surfaces to roughen them then clean with isopropyl alcohol. Dampen one surface with water, apply glue to the other, fit and clamp. I made 'extended tank' rockets with two (or more) 2L bottles cut and bonded together with PU. They'd hold 100+ psi (as much as I could deliver with a standard bicycle pump).
You can use this trick to reinforce or repair plastic parts you might swear could never be glued...cowlings in particular. Cut a small strip of PET, sand it, clean it, prepare the bonding surface, dampen one piece apply PU to the other, fit and clamp. Very light and strong. The sanding trick will also let CA work much better on plastic parts...need to patch a canopy? This will work. |
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