Parkzone Radian. - Page 9 - RC Groups
Thread Tools
Dec 19, 2008, 11:54 AM
Mis-guided heli guy
Jeff_edge540's Avatar
The control rod guide tubes that run alongside of the fuselage really help to hold the tail in place.
I found the glue (white silicone really) that is holding the control rod guide tubes to the side of the fuselage does not hold the guide tubes very well. You can easily pull the guides free from the fuse and re-glue them with better adhesive (I used hot glue). When doing so, make sure the fuse is straight and not bent or twisted. Once cured, the fuse will be straight and rigid.
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Dec 19, 2008, 03:02 PM
Registered User
I am helping two AMA clubmembers with their Radians. One pilot eager to fly (with out a buddy box) flew on his own and crashed causing foam compression (estimate 1/2")and 6 cracks aft of the plastic motor mount. He now understands that 1/2 powered launches are much safer and easier to handle. Luckily no person or thing got injured by that spinning prop. Regular CA was used to seal the cracks and lead was added to nose because of compression and reduced nose moment. The fuse looks straight but she does not have the easy flying hands off recovery characteristics like before. A jig can get it straight or a $45 replacement fuse can be had in a couple of weeks but thats not the point. Spend $39 for a buddy box and cord to use with your trusted individual/instructor. The pitch up with power can be managed with proper throttle management. Hopefully the next generation foamy motor glider will have this issue fixed. And maybe the next generation of Radians will have an optional extra 5ch 2.4 buddy box included!
Dec 19, 2008, 04:19 PM
Registered User
sylifis's Avatar
Okay guys here is my video contribution using the flycamone2. Took some flak from the neighbors. "Be kind"

Radian Flycamone2 HD (6 min 54 sec)
Last edited by sylifis; Dec 20, 2008 at 04:05 PM.
Dec 19, 2008, 08:38 PM
Registered User
wingsnapper's Avatar
finally got one in the air. I took the original back and the hobby shop owner was nice enough to give me an exchange. wouldn't you know the guy was right when he said the next one would most likely be no different. Feeling a bit stupid I took my OCD behind out and just flew it anyway. First launch (5-10 sec motor run) with no attention to measuring cog or anything I caught a thermal that I eventually had to spin out of. Sure it was feeling out of rig, but that didn't matter a bit when you have perfect conditions. Later I just pulled the bend out with some tape, moved the cg back a bit and now it's flying like a sailplane should. Turns are absolutly without pilot effort.. really the only thing you have to do is read the air and go exploring. Cake.
Dec 19, 2008, 11:19 PM
Hit my smoke....
Hostage-46's Avatar
Yep, He had it specked out alright on the 1st launch! Terrific conditions today in Big D. I know of 4 now among us locals, and I suspect bunch more are inbound on the back of a sliegh!

I wend back out later for a seccond flying sesssion with dead calm winds and very light lift. With the aft CG I was amazed how well I was able to fly in very light conditions.... I'm a fan!

76 degrees , light winds today, cold front, freezing temps and big winds coming soon, need to catch those nice days when they come!
Dec 20, 2008, 02:55 AM
Registered User
RADIAN FLAP MOD: For those that have building experience with competition sailplane flaps and are interested in Radian modifications for slow flight and steeper/slower touchdowns the following mods can be done in a few hours. I have 3 "sorties" so far on a modified Radian and really like the flying results!
Use a new box cutter and straight edge to cut through the "Z" foam trailing edge to make 1.75" by 15.5 flaps on each wing panel. Make multiple cuts on the bottom of the wing to make a good straight hinge line. Sand flap/and or wing cut using 100 sanding bar to make a slight bevel. Use two "Z" hinges made from Scotch double sided tape for the inboard and outboard flap section. These hinges prevent vertical play between the wing and flap joint. Use 1.5" wide 3M 845 Book Binding Tape (must order through Office Supply Stores...never in stock) to cover the bottom hinge line and double sided tape hinges. These prevent fore and aft play between the wing and flap joint. There is no hinge buckling when the wing is flexed or even when the flaps are deployed down to 90 degrees! Now the exotic stuff that came from some modeler a long time ago?
Torsion springs made from .020" music wire bent into a 1" by 3" by 1" U shape then twisted 180 degrees and imbedded into the wing and flap force the flap into the retracted position. A 1/2" by 1.5" by 1/16 ply plate CA'd to the wing/flap gap acts to keep flap flush with stock airfoil camber. (wish I could post a video) One micro servo pulls Spectra fishing line through 90 degree nylon guide tubes sticking out on each fuselage side and are connected to flap horns (Great Planes Wing Tip Skids imbedded 1/2 " away from fuse side into each flap ). Draw is 400 mah (stalled) using one 9 gram inexpensive servo mounted sideways between ESC and battery locations. A mini servo (HS 81) is better or 2 dedicated flap servos could be imbedded flush on each fuse side of the Radian like the Easy Star if pushrod actuation and flaperons were desired but then a 4 cell receiver pack or dedicated BEC would be advised using 3s drive cells.
Flaps really slow the Radian down and allow steep approaches to precision close in landings. Extended flaps at 45 degrees and 1/2 power on 3s 2200 Zippy pack allow slow 45 degree bank slow flight that only use about 25 ft diameter airspace!. Will try a 2s pack to get wing loading down and to see if thrust and pitch speed are OK for easy climbouts.
Dec 20, 2008, 03:08 AM
Hit my smoke....
Hostage-46's Avatar

Well really, to each his own I guess

I was playing around this evening in a smaller park with no wind, it did take a bit of energy management to get her down to a catch with limited space, but I was enjoying the challenge....

With my current setup I'm just amazed how this hunk of foam indicates light lift and flys so well.

As for mods, I'll be painting the wing bottoms in the AM, and adding some reflective tape to the leading edges, for both viz and protection the leading edge foam is getting a bit torn up by the rough grass here in TX. But that's it, keeping her simple with a nice aft CG it's just right for a lunch time break in the action.

Gonna build a coroplast box for the foam insert as well for easy storage...
Dec 20, 2008, 07:02 AM
Registered User
Gonna build a coroplast box for the foam insert as well for easy storage...
I'd be interested in seeing that box as you're constructing it.

Dec 20, 2008, 07:08 AM
Proud member of LISF and ESL
That's the fun of this hobby. Give some people any plane and they will want to modify it. Others will wish to preserve the design as created by the designer. And it is all good.

Unless I was going to fly it in some kind of serious competition where I had to land on the spot, I would not modify the Radian. I would enjoy it for what it is and what it was designed to do. The Radian is a simple design that works very well.

They only mods I would recommend would be in line with what Hostiage-46 suggests:

1) Paint the bottom of the wings for greater visability at greater altitude and distance. Sailplane pilots tend to fly high and far so visability is more important than ever. I would suggest black, dark blue, red, or any other strong color. Once you get it high they all look black, so choose based on your color preferences. But a dark under wing is much easier to see in the sky.

2) Tape of some kind on the front of the wing is a good idea. This will help the foam deal with some of the bumps and bruises that all planes experience when they have no landing gear and are not landed on smooth, low cut grass. This could be 2" packing tape, carfully applied so as to be very very smooth. You don't want to disrupt the air flow with wrinkles and bubbles.

I like the reflective tape idea. You can find excellent reflective wing tape at I have also used Monokote chrome trim sheets and cut them into 1 to 2 " strips and applied them to the front of the wing. That works well as a reflector.

Rudder/Elevator gliders have been a mainstay of the soaring world forever. Add a motor for convenient launches and you have a perfect soaring platform. Simple, effective and so much fun!

Enjoy it as it is, or cut it up to your hearts content. It is all good.
Last edited by aeajr; Dec 20, 2008 at 07:14 AM.
Dec 20, 2008, 03:25 PM
AndyTheLegend's Avatar

Radian Madien

I finally got to maiden the Radian today. Winds were about 3 mph and it was cloudy despite TWC's forecast of clear blue skies here in Ft. Lauderdale. The CG was set with the 1300 battery included with the RTF set, right on at 2.5" back. The climb was about 60-70 degrees right of the bat. Since it's so big, it doesn't turn real fast so that takes time to get used to. I climbed to about 400 ft and leveled off. The Radian flies very slow and docile, minimal input is needed to keep it straight and level. It is a bit slow to input but that's part of the transition from 4 channel aerobatic planes to gliders. We also did have to issue of it porpoising. It turned out that I was giving it too much input and over-correcting. Just use less input and it's fine. I did manage to hook onto 2 great thermals for the first time and I have to say, it was a thrill. The Radian turns perfectly and tight circles were not a problem. Even with no lift, this plane can easily fly 15-20 minutes on a not-too-high climb. After 40 minutes and 4 climbs, I wanted to bring it down to check the battery as a first-time precaution. I tried to bring it in with just feathering the prop, and as a result it stalled and plopped down nicely on the grass. I did two more flights, and again the Radian far exceeded my expectations. One was 40 minutes on 5 climbs, and the other 20 minutes due to my clubs hours. I only ran the motor once on the last flight, and I caught a boomer thermal. Surprisingly hawks actually joined me, and we flew till the Radian got sucked into the low level cloud just above us for about 3 seconds. I dived out of it and was surprised to hear that swooshing sound that you only usually hear on top-end gliders. The landing was near perfect. The Radian seems to glide forever .

Overall, the Radian is an amazing glider. I can't wait to get it out again and look for more thermals.

Dec 20, 2008, 04:12 PM
Registered User
sylifis's Avatar
Good Report. (note to myself; get stronger contacts I almost lost sight of mine after I looked down for a minute)
Dec 20, 2008, 08:33 PM
Proud member of LISF and ESL
Paint the bottom of the wing and it will be easier to see.
Dec 21, 2008, 12:48 PM
Registered User
Got mine yesterday.

Dont get overheated in that 76 degree weather. It is a balmy 18 here...

It flies wonderfully. I have a number of the TP 1320 packs and I am using them with great results. If anyone wants a spare stock pack see the classifieds, I am selling mine as I use the TP's.

Anyway, I ironed some low temp econocote on the bottoms of the wing tips and it makes it much easier to see, especially if it is snowing...

All in all a great value, and an awsome flyer.

Dec 21, 2008, 01:02 PM
AndyTheLegend's Avatar
Me and my friend both have Radians and sometimes the "Ava" effect is a problem. I'm probably just going to paint my wing with red stripes. Anyways, I got caught in a boomer thermal today! It was in the same area as yesterday and the Radain went up like an elevator. We got so high that we could barely see it. Suggestion: To get out of a thermal, just jam the stick in the bottom pockets. It'll start spiraling down and it really saved me today.

Anyone wondering about the thermal performance of the Radian, it does great.

Dec 21, 2008, 02:16 PM
Flying = Falling (Slowly)
dharban's Avatar
Originally Posted by GeneR
Got mine yesterday.

It is a balmy 18 here...

Be very careful flying LiPo's in cold weather. They can easily lose half or more of their capacity when operated in cold conditions.

Happy Landings,