Could be the air pressure, sometimes it can affect flight. Good luck
-AG

nevermind

parkjoe

Try putting a dose of Sildenafil citrate in it, but if it won't come down after 4 hours call for help.

Kern

oh, that scares me

Originally Posted by KLH

parkjoe

Try putting a dose of Sildenafil citrate in it, but if it won't come down after 4 hours call for help.

Kern

What?

HEHEHE silly joe

Sounds like rear cg and flying too slow to me.

Originally Posted by Foamaholic

Sounds like rear cg and flying too slow to me.

Thank you Foamaholic, For your help

It is now official that The Houston Hawks are doing a one design contest series using the Radian

So here are the new revised one design rules for the Radian.
1. No modifications to the wing plan form or airfoil.
2. Only the stock Radian 480 motor can be used.
3. Only the stock Parkzone speed control and battery (3s 1300mah) can be used.
4. You may paint your Radian any way you see fit.
5. Modifications that stiffen or straighten the fuselage will be permitted.
6. You may substitute a 10 X 8 folding prop for the stock Radian prop. No other
diameter or pitch will be allowed.
7. Those of you that buy the PNP version may use whatever receiver, transmitter,
or LiPo battery charger you have.
8. Repairs to the Radian must be true to the original design and not violate
rule one.
9. You may use any C/G that you want. Whatever C/G works for you is ok.
10. You must have fun when flying your Radian.

The Houston Hawks bought theirs from New Creations RC (936-856-4630 Kirk Massey) and to see the costs of the rtf and pnp with battery you can go to Yahoo Groups Houston Hawks Message #6141 for the details with no shipping

I just talked to the owner of Randy's Hobbys (281-469-7000 Randy Ritch) I work there on the weekend and he is willing to also do a discount on both the rtf and pnp/w battery. He is willing to do shipping also

I know the size of the discount will go up as the number of birds in a group go up as well

So if your club wants to start a one design series at a reduced price for a great flying plane give them a call

The Houston Hawks ---

What a great idea, congratulations Y'all.

rule#10 is the most important one ;o)

I had a chance to get a picture of the Radian 120 next to a regular Radian. Thought I would post it.

HAHAHAHA.....It makes it look sooo small
How does it fly?

Originally Posted by VicT

RADIAN FLAP MOD: For those that have building experience with competition sailplane flaps and are interested in Radian modifications for slow flight and steeper/slower touchdowns the following mods can be done in a few hours. I have 3 "sorties" so far on a modified Radian and really like the flying results!
Use a new box cutter and straight edge to cut through the "Z" foam trailing edge to make 1.75" by 15.5 flaps on each wing panel. Make multiple cuts on the bottom of the wing to make a good straight hinge line. Sand flap/and or wing cut using 100 sanding bar to make a slight bevel. Use two "Z" hinges made from Scotch double sided tape for the inboard and outboard flap section. These hinges prevent vertical play between the wing and flap joint. Use 1.5" wide 3M 845 Book Binding Tape (must order through Office Supply Stores...never in stock) to cover the bottom hinge line and double sided tape hinges. These prevent fore and aft play between the wing and flap joint. There is no hinge buckling when the wing is flexed or even when the flaps are deployed down to 90 degrees! Now the exotic stuff that came from some modeler a long time ago?
Torsion springs made from .020" music wire bent into a 1" by 3" by 1" U shape then twisted 180 degrees and embedded into the wing and flap force the flap into the retracted position. A 1/2" by 1.5" by 1/16 ply plate CA'd to the wing/flap gap acts to keep flap flush with stock airfoil camber. (wish I could post a video) One micro servo pulls Spectra fishing line through 90 degree nylon guide tubes sticking out on each fuselage side and are connected to flap horns (Great Planes Wing Tip Skids embedded 1/2 " away from fuse side into each flap ). Draw is 400 mah (stalled) using one 9 gram inexpensive servo mounted sideways between ESC and battery locations. A mini servo (HS 81) is better or 2 dedicated flap servos could be imbedded flush on each fuse side of the Radian like the Easy Star if pushrod actuation and flaperons were desired but then a 4 cell receiver pack or dedicated BEC would be advised using 3s drive cells.
Flaps really slow the Radian down and allow steep approaches to precision close in landings. Extended flaps at 45 degrees and 1/2 power on 3s 2200 Zippy pack allow slow 45 degree bank slow flight that only use about 25 ft diameter airspace!. Will try a 2s pack to get wing loading down and to see if thrust and pitch speed are OK for easy climbouts.

VicT, I'd really like to see some pictures if available.
I too believe in flying a plane pretty much as it is, but in this case, you have come up with something I really need.
I have small fields around here and a depth perception problem, so I can't risk far out landing approaches anyway.
If I could keep it in a fairly tight circle above me, and land it, very slowly after getting into the small field, that would be perfect for me.
I've been practising with an Ember2 (a lot of fun), and GF4.5 Sim software, but I still have problems getting the Radian to behave on landings.

It flies very well. I plan to add 1" to the rudder. Flaps or spoilers are next as it floats even longer than the 2M version. Plus with the larger span you can't be as agressive trying to get it down. It's way easier to see at altitude though.

I just "maidened" a second radian (my first exploded on imapact after the tail linkage failed at the top of a 1500' climb! )..

This one was purchased from a local modeler for a steal, he had already replaced the elevator linkage. I switched out the rudder connector for a better quality one I had on hand..

Flew like a dream!
..a