Jul 13, 2010, 10:26 PM
FLY ANGRY
FIXXIN2FLY's Avatar
Epoxy is too heavy for these birds..... The glue of choice for me is the UHUpor
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Jul 13, 2010, 10:33 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by FIXXIN2FLY View Post
Epoxy is too heavy for these birds..... The glue of choice for me is the UHUpor
I tried testing UHU, the local version here and found it did not waterproof the test box I made. So I still use epoxy for the lower fuselage. The upper fuselage and other parts that do not need a waterproof chamber, I use Uhu.
Jul 13, 2010, 10:38 PM
FLY ANGRY
FIXXIN2FLY's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatbus View Post
I tried testing UHU, the local version here and found it did not waterproof the test box I made. So I still use epoxy for the lower fuselage. The upper fuselage and other parts that do not need a waterproof chamber, I use Uhu.
I use a lightweight spackle and poly as a finish coat on the finished product and have found it to be quite "water resistant' when finished. I guess its all in how ya look at it. Good luck with the "water proof" tho.
If you do the "liquid tape dip" method on the esc you really dont have to worry about the "waterproof" as the foam is very bouyant and the plane isnt going to fill up with water
Jul 13, 2010, 10:46 PM
Registered User
It's not the electronics I'm concerned about. It's water seeping into the lower chambers. It won't be nice having water sloshing around changing the CoG. This has happened to a few people here as they have posted.
Jul 13, 2010, 10:55 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatbus View Post
Do you do any finishing, sanding the edges, cosmetic work? Does that include the stickers?
I finish sand the edges using a concave sanding block. I don't fully round them. I find this looks pleasing to my eye. I always use decals and there is no need to do any sanding or prep work on the foam other than the edges. I use packing tape to clean the foam prior to laying the decals. This does a great job of removing dust.

I use 5 or 15 minute epoxy on all the carbon and wood pieces, Elmer's spray on the laminations and strips, and Bob Smith thick CA for everything else, and I take great care to avoid excess glue from getting where it doesn't belong.

Scott

www.ModelAero.com
Jul 13, 2010, 11:02 PM
Registered User
Thanks for the info Scott. The thick CA gives a total waterproof sealed fuselage chamber?
Jul 13, 2010, 11:11 PM
KJ4YNM
RCPtero's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatbus View Post
It's not the electronics I'm concerned about. It's water seeping into the lower chambers. It won't be nice having water sloshing around changing the CoG. This has happened to a few people here as they have posted.
I remember when I was 16, I visited my brother in the AF. He was crew chief on a C130 flight simulator. I did pretty good flying. That is until the "elephant" in the back broke loose and started running back and forth!
--
Tom
Jul 13, 2010, 11:22 PM
Did ya'll see that?!?
Tony A.'s Avatar
For the majority of the build I use BSI Super Gold+ foam safe CA. I have not had a problem with water getting into the lower fuselage.

For laminating the nose, wing floats, and vertical stab I use Fabri-Tac which I get in the craft department at Walmart. From what I can tell it is the same glue as the Ultimate RC Foam Glue that Yardbird RC used to sell. Works great and less mess than aerosol contact cements.

I only use epoxy at the base of the vertical stab and the motor mount.
Last edited by Tony A.; Jul 14, 2010 at 09:25 AM.
Jul 14, 2010, 08:24 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Flatbus View Post
Thanks for the info Scott. The thick CA gives a total waterproof sealed fuselage chamber?
After attaching the large fuse bottom piece, I run a bead of thick CA around the inside of the fuse, where the bottom and sides meet.

The only area I have ever seen leakage is in the aft lower fuse where the servos are, and that's because I had the piece taped on and didn't check it thoroughly. Usually I still tape this piece on, but apply little latex caulk at each end to seal it up.

Scott

www.ModelAero.com
Jul 14, 2010, 09:44 AM
Work....fly, repeat...
AeroRecon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Model Aero View Post
After attaching the large fuse bottom piece, I run a bead of thick CA around the inside of the fuse, where the bottom and sides meet.

The only area I have ever seen leakage is in the aft lower fuse where the servos are, and that's because I had the piece taped on and didn't check it thoroughly. Usually I still tape this piece on, but apply little latex caulk at each end to seal it up.

Scott

www.ModelAero.com
I did the same with most seams from the inside, and sometimes on the outside, with clear silicone sealant. Seemed to work ok but probably waaay too heavy. Sure looked sealed up tight.

Scott...you wouldn't have a partial kit laying around would you? I think I can salvage the whole tail structure and just mount on a new fuse and wing.

If you do or don't, do you think that will work??
Thanks
Jul 14, 2010, 03:43 PM
Registered User
mavlo77's Avatar
Hi, another technical incident. Just after take off, throttle stayed at 50%... Didn't respond to the Tx. After some more fiddling with the throttle stick, the motor stopped........

But I was still way to low to do anything, so I again went into a spin, and went down in a spiral again in 2 meters long grass.........

Again lucky as only one stick penetrated the wing. That's all damage. Nothing else.

There was more damage to my body after crawling through meters and meters of mud and reed/grass.

As this happened several times befor, I now first check what could be wrong.

I still suspect my ESC... (Super Brain Turnigy).

But what about my Spektrum Rx? Maybe after it was soaked, it gives erratic signals.

Also my aileron trim changes during the flight. Quite a lot: maybe 5 mm deflection over 5 minutes!!

Quite strange problems, which I never have seen with my older (still flying and in good shape) Polaris..... For some reason I don't fly so relax, as you are continuously aware of what can go wrong next time. So I fly with my older Polaris from now on.
Jul 14, 2010, 04:12 PM
Novice builder and flyer!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Model Aero View Post
I build a few for local pick-up and charge around $325 RX ready. I'm just not comfortable trying to ship these and the cost would be high.

Scott

www.ModelAero.com
Quote:
Originally Posted by Model Aero View Post
I can build a Polaris in about 10 hours. Believe me I no longer need the construction guide.

Between the Polaris, Aqua Cat, and Aqua Jet, I have built roughly 22 planes. It's still a very enjoyable build.

Scott

www.ModelAero.com
Scott, that makes a prebuilt Polaris - crafted by the kit producer to the finest quality, almost ready to fly - the absolute bargain of the rc modelling world! Bar none!

-Gary
Jul 14, 2010, 04:22 PM
master of the universe
captaingeek's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by gmphoto View Post
Scott, that makes a prebuilt Polaris - crafted by the kit producer to the finest quality, almost ready to fly - the absolute bargain of the rc modelling world! Bar none!

-Gary
totally agree with that one. like i said, i would charge double that.
Jul 14, 2010, 06:33 PM
Registered User
Thanks guys. Some think it's too much but when you factor in the build time it really is not a bad deal and the hourly rate is pretty cheap!!!

Scott

www.ModelAero.com
Jul 14, 2010, 06:44 PM
Novice builder and flyer!
Quote:
Originally Posted by Model Aero View Post
Thanks guys. Some think it's too much but when you factor in the build time it really is not a bad deal and the hourly rate is pretty cheap!!!

Scott

www.ModelAero.com
How long is the warranty against crashes valid for?

-Gary