Precision Aerobatics Ultimate Biplane - Page 330 - RC Groups
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Dec 07, 2010, 08:40 PM
Registered User
tjm5837's Avatar
I'm a little confused. I'm thinking about ordering an Ulti AMR for christmas. You guys mostly said you bought from precisionaerobatics.com. It looks like they ship from Australia. But I have seen posts in this forum about a US location in Atlanta?? On their Website they say that shipping charges won't be known until ready to ship and they will call with cost of shipping. I live in Florida...How hard is it to figure a shipping cost for that? It also states on the website that customs charges may be due on arrival. Now I'm getting turned off on ordering it. Am I nuts, or missing something? I would like to know how much to ship and how long it will take to get to Florida before ordering. I've never ordered from a company with so much uncertainty. Help??
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Dec 07, 2010, 08:47 PM
Flirtin With Disaster !!
D.B. Hooper's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjm5837
I'm a little confused. I'm thinking about ordering an Ulti AMR for christmas. You guys mostly said you bought from precisionaerobatics.com. It looks like they ship from Australia. But I have seen posts in this forum about a US location in Atlanta?? On their Website they say that shipping charges won't be known until ready to ship and they will call with cost of shipping. I live in Florida...How hard is it to figure a shipping cost for that? It also states on the website that customs charges may be due on arrival. Now I'm getting turned off on ordering it. Am I nuts, or missing something? I would like to know how much to ship and how long it will take to get to Florida before ordering. I've never ordered from a company with so much uncertainty. Help??
I would recommend you get a Air Hog from Toy's R US lol!

Just click on the American flag on the home page...
Dec 07, 2010, 10:34 PM
Registered User
tjm5837's Avatar
Really don't know how to respond to that, dude. Big help. Thanks a lump! "Lol".
Dec 07, 2010, 11:05 PM
Flirtin With Disaster !!
D.B. Hooper's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjm5837
Really don't know how to respond to that, dude. Big help. Thanks a lump! "Lol".
You can get one here too.

http://www.chiefaircraft.com/rcmsec/...timateAMR.html
Dec 08, 2010, 07:02 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by tjm5837
I'm a little confused. I'm thinking about ordering an Ulti AMR for christmas. You guys mostly said you bought from precisionaerobatics.com. It looks like they ship from Australia. But I have seen posts in this forum about a US location in Atlanta?? On their Website they say that shipping charges won't be known until ready to ship and they will call with cost of shipping. I live in Florida...How hard is it to figure a shipping cost for that? It also states on the website that customs charges may be due on arrival. Now I'm getting turned off on ordering it. Am I nuts, or missing something? I would like to know how much to ship and how long it will take to get to Florida before ordering. I've never ordered from a company with so much uncertainty. Help??
If you buy the IPA drive [thrust 40 and q45 esc ] or the IPA PRO [everything you need ] shipping is free. If you buy just the plane or plane and motor they charged me $15.95 shipping to N.C.
Dec 08, 2010, 08:09 AM
Registered User
aerofundan's Avatar
They ship from GA, USA through UPS ground.
Dec 08, 2010, 08:30 PM
If it's to be, it's up to me.
subsonic's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by OSOFAM
So what is the correct way to repair a puncture in the covering?

I tried putting some sticky tape across the tear to hold the film together and then ran the heat gun over it to tighten the film up again. That actually seemed to work well. The photo is taken before runing the heat gun over the repair.

I have also just put a sticker over the hole in past repairs, which also seems to work ok.
Just found a pic of a repair that I did on my AMR. I had to replace the covering on a section of the lower wing where the wheel fairing punctured the covering. I'm sure you're all sorted now, but it might help someone.

s.
Dec 09, 2010, 05:36 PM
Suspended Account
Dan5.0's Avatar
Resurrected an old friend today. Almost was ready to be done with her and order a new one. I did the motor box replacement last spring and a few doinks & fixes here and there. The last one this past summer seemed worse than it really was. Just had to reinforce the new motor box a little but mostly was building a new bat. tray. She's ready to go for re-maiden tomorrow!
Dec 09, 2010, 10:11 PM
What will happen if ....Oh....
OSOFAM's Avatar
Thanks for the picture subsonic, that’s a quality repair job. I was wondering how much darker the film would be on the overlap. I do use an old non steam iron for some covering repairs but I should get a real covering iron one day.

Good luck on the re-maiden Dan5.0. I hope it feels as good as new……or at least close to new..
Dec 09, 2010, 10:19 PM
If it's to be, it's up to me.
subsonic's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by OSOFAM
Thanks for the picture subsonic, that’s a quality repair job. I was wondering how much darker the film would be on the overlap. I do use an old non steam iron for some covering repairs but I should get a real covering iron one day.

Good luck on the re-maiden Dan5.0. I hope it feels as good as new……or at least close to new..
That's the trouble with transparent covering I guess. The darker area is pretty hard to avoid, unless you want to re cover the entire surface.

i used my mums clothes iron for years when i was a kid. Put an end to that when after covering with dark blue Solarfilm, my dad's shirt got a blue streak on it, right across the collar. I was in deep Shiz over that one.

A clothes iron runs a close second if you don't have a real covering iron. They are just quite heavy to use but still do an acceptable job.

s.
Dec 10, 2010, 01:04 AM
Registered User
flipteg's Avatar
i'm about to build this airplane but i haven't gotten my package yet. i'm wondering if you all have any problems with the tail wheel? from the pictures, it looks like a wire just stuck to balsa. i wanted to know how the durability of this setup is.

i have a spare 3DHS tail wheel for my Slick 42" that i wanted to try on the Ultimate if it fits. that setup has a metal plate that screws on the fuselage. it has a hole where tail wheel wire pivots. this metal plate is what takes the stresses from the tail wheel instead of a wire straight to wood.
Dec 10, 2010, 01:35 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by flipteg
i'm about to build this airplane but i haven't gotten my package yet. i'm wondering if you all have any problems with the tail wheel? from the pictures, it looks like a wire just stuck to balsa. i wanted to know how the durability of this setup is.

i have a spare 3DHS tail wheel for my Slick 42" that i wanted to try on the Ultimate if it fits. that setup has a metal plate that screws on the fuselage. it has a hole where tail wheel wire pivots. this metal plate is what takes the stresses from the tail wheel instead of a wire straight to wood.
Hi, the tail wheel in the AMR is not ideal solution, but it might be better to do that right instead of adding the Slick tail wheel setup and the only reason is the effect on the CG.

If you are going to stick with the original tail wheel, just make sure that you use 5-min or better 30-min epoxy for gluing it to the rudder. It really makes a difference and all tail wheels that are glued with epoxy on my PA planes hold and are very strong. The ones I CAed are not very good.

Jakub
Dec 10, 2010, 04:42 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by flipteg
i'm about to build this airplane but i haven't gotten my package yet. i'm wondering if you all have any problems with the tail wheel? from the pictures, it looks like a wire just stuck to balsa. i wanted to know how the durability of this setup is.

i have a spare 3DHS tail wheel for my Slick 42" that i wanted to try on the Ultimate if it fits. that setup has a metal plate that screws on the fuselage. it has a hole where tail wheel wire pivots. this metal plate is what takes the stresses from the tail wheel instead of a wire straight to wood.
There is a simple workaround if you are concerned about the tailwheel wire.

Just cut a narrow slot under the rudder along the position where the tailwheel wire runs and then embed it with epoxy. This is the method I use.

You may like to refer to the step by step photos on page 1 at this link for the Extreme Mods for Your Katana MD http://malaysia-rc.com/index.php?topic=10147.10


Hope this helps

RR
Dec 10, 2010, 05:48 AM
Suspended Account
Dan5.0's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cuba
Hi, the tail wheel in the AMR is not ideal solution, but it might be better to do that right instead of adding the Slick tail wheel setup and the only reason is the effect on the CG.

If you are going to stick with the original tail wheel, just make sure that you use 5-min or better 30-min epoxy for gluing it to the rudder. It really makes a difference and all tail wheels that are glued with epoxy on my PA planes hold and are very strong. The ones I CAed are not very good.

Jakub
Totally agree, use what was meant for the plane first. Maybe down the road it may need repairing, but for now I'd go with the factory recommendations.
Dec 10, 2010, 08:27 AM
Registered User
J Charles's Avatar
Also on the tail wheel, after you get it glued in put a piece of tape or ideally covering over the wire and it should hold up just fine. I did this on my AMR and have never had a issue with it.


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