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Old Oct 06, 2012, 02:47 AM
Goody63 is online now
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How close are those trees?
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Well done on the maiden Savvy.

Not sure if it applies to you; but the factory COG notoriously makes these Panthers tail heavy. They fly better with the lipo pushed forward and COG around the 65mm to 62mm mark.

Cheers
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Old Oct 08, 2012, 10:39 AM
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Always Fly 2 Mistakes High!
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Congrats Savvy!

Did you land on the gear or just belly in?

Russ
Old Oct 08, 2012, 04:27 PM
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Quote:
Did you land on the gear or just belly in?
Thanks very much. The grass was really quite long so I belly landed it in both times. The fibre glassing really helps it to skid along and protects it well from any possible damage. The surface is also smooth enough now that dirt marks simply wipe off.

I had the pleasure of flying at my first club-field in the weekend so took the Panther to see how it would fly off a very short grass runway. The front gear collapsed again where the wooden plate glues into the inside fuse, a bit annoying. Because of the gear problem I also belly landed at the field. Certainly a lot more stressful when there's a group of people watching the 'new kid'

One thing I noticed was that they were flying in a right-to-left clockwise pattern but for some reason I always fly anti-clockwise, was amazing how much that put me off. It seemed odd to fly the wrong way around the track, certainly something I need to practice at.
Old Oct 08, 2012, 04:33 PM
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FLY IY, BREAK IT, FIX IT,
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One thing I noticed was that they were flying in a right-to-left clockwise pattern but for some reason I always fly anti-clockwise, was amazing how much that put me off. It seemed odd to fly the wrong way around the track, certainly something I need to practice at.
you are not alone!

The circuits at out club depend on wind direction and subsequent pits choice. I hate left hand circuits as I am just not used to them. I guess with enough practice you become ambidextrous! (I hope,)
Old Oct 08, 2012, 04:34 PM
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Always Fly 2 Mistakes High!
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I had same problem with my front wheels collapsing...finally had to drill holes (toothpick sized) through from the fuselage into the wooden platform and Gorilla Glued them in there. Was barely visible from bottom side.
Old Oct 08, 2012, 10:47 PM
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My new Panther (Thanks to Tim at RC Lander)

Still working on tuning her, fan is choking for air...



Last edited by nighthawk0077; Oct 08, 2012 at 10:52 PM.
Old Oct 09, 2012, 03:19 AM
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Originally Posted by nighthawk0077 View Post
My new Panther (Thanks to Tim at RC Lander)

Still working on tuning her, fan is choking for air...




Nighthawk,

looks great! Just like mine..

Curious. I 've seen some videos of your "other one" I think. It was very fast with the CS10 fan.

What are the differences between this one and the other one related to airflow?

I also had the fan choking and removed all of the red plastic covering the bottom cheater. Mine also had a 56mm exhaust.

Thanks
Old Oct 09, 2012, 03:56 AM
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sounds good for Turbine then
Old Oct 09, 2012, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by anlucas View Post
Nighthawk,

looks great! Just like mine..

Curious. I 've seen some videos of your "other one" I think. It was very fast with the CS10 fan.

What are the differences between this one and the other one related to airflow?

I also had the fan choking and removed all of the red plastic covering the bottom cheater. Mine also had a 56mm exhaust.

Thanks
my last one was the old version, so huge cheater at the bottom. Id like to avoid doing that with this one. Will probably add two more intakes on the sides.

The new fan unit does sound great though in the airframe
Old Oct 09, 2012, 11:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nighthawk0077 View Post
my last one was the old version, so huge cheater at the bottom. Id like to avoid doing that with this one. Will probably add two more intakes on the sides.

The new fan unit does sound great though in the airframe
Thanks for confirming that.

I haven't noticed any differences in handling(balooning etc) with the bottom cheater open btw.
Old Oct 10, 2012, 04:45 PM
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Nav & Afterburner Lights


My new Panther got the nav and afterburner lights option installed at the factory. I finally got to hook them up last night. Not terribly hard but LOTS of wires to contend with between the light controller and the receiver! Channel 7 on my Futaba 7C runs the light switch by default with the way they have you hook it up. It's a great deal 'cos you can turn the lights off or on that way. I was worried about using power to run them all (tail light, wing tank lights, head light, and afterburner lights) but with a flick of the switch...no lights. I had to adjust the "travel" so they wouldn't come on with lowest switch setting and to come on brightly with another switch setting but that was as simple as turning a screw on a potentiometer (sp?) per the instructions.

The lights are brighter than I have seen on other planes...like my FMS Petie on the wing tips (hardly visible at all)...the head light is especially bright. The wing tank lights flicker on and off and vary the flicker time...very cool. Haven't flown it yet so don't know how visible they are in daylight but will report back.

Hope to maiden this weekend...if all the stars align...will take some pics and video. Also got the factory installed landing gear hooked up last night and the etracts worked very well.

Now to install the motor/fan/esc tonight.

Russ
Old Oct 12, 2012, 11:56 AM
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Don't do what I did


After installing lights, the wing was next. Well...I just found out that when you custom order (like I did from ParkRCModels.com) you HAVE to order "Deluxe Removable 1 Piece Wing" option to get wing hold down hardware included (blind nuts, bolts, ply pieces to make wing removable...aka...not permanently glued in). I thought the deluxe version would be some exotic version that I didn't need. I just wanted to bolt in on and be done with it. The previous one I got from HK had all the wing hardware included so I thought that was a base version. But, live and learn.

I contacted Max @ ParkRCModels.com and he was very nice about it and immediately shipped out the parts I needed at his cost. He surely didn't have to do that and I appreciated it. He also said that the procedure for installing hardware is not in the manual and he contacted the factory to get pictures for me to complete installation. Talk about customer service! He's got my business from now on.

I'll post pics and vids when complete but won't be this weekend.

Russ

P.S. Here are the pics that Max sent from RC Lander factory today.
Last edited by RGS2010; Oct 12, 2012 at 12:59 PM. Reason: Add Pics
Old Oct 24, 2012, 06:33 AM
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6s setup is definitely choking for air


Guys, I just maidened my new Panther with the springloaded intakes on top of the fuselage and the new Lander 10 Blade Fan at 6s.
The jet was only half as fast with the closed (old + huge) cheaterhole at the bottom than with the removed panel to open up the old one. That means, if you go with 6s, you definitely nees more air than coming the fan from the normal intakes and the new springloaded cheaterhole.
Old Oct 28, 2012, 09:04 PM
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Just finishing my hand launch HK 3S version. Should I cover the intake with the supplied cheater holes or leave off? Should I cover the main gear holes or leave open for extra intake? I plan on covering the nose gear hole. Instructions call for running throw- accurate?
Old Oct 29, 2012, 02:54 AM
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big cheater vs. gear doors open


Haven't finished mine yet but FWIW some knowledgeable guys over in the
Geman forum say that they have the handlaunched version getting air
via the open gear channels, and close the main cheater because it would
get in too much dirt in the landings. I guess I wil try that too eventually.
So it has been done successfully

EDIT: As those guys are using Wemos, their success doesn' mean
that a Change Sun 10-blade won't be starved for air w/ only the
gear wells open and no cheater - the CS needs a better air feed
in general...

cheers
Clemens
Last edited by mopetista; Oct 30, 2012 at 02:03 AM. Reason: afterthought


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