Originally Posted by SEAL

On a full charge, and E-Flite Power meter... The readings were moving around a bit so I just took the average.
685Watts out
49.5 Amps
APC 12X8
Turnigy Plush 80A ESC
Hyperion BEC 5/6V

Looks good, I suspect your model will really come alive.

Is that your Watts output (ie: prop power) or input to the ESC? (ie: 14V x 49.5A) To calculate Watts output you need to know the prop RPM.

I can't wait to test with my Zippy 4S 3000mah 40C batteries.

I'm ready to maiden this weekend, and bust a move! Thanks for the advice!

Be aware, with a 40C lipo you may need to prop down! They can hold higher voltage under load and thus cause an increase in RPM, and an increase in current.

Scorpion Motors are worth the price!

Indeed!

Originally Posted by SEAL

I am a beginner/intermediate pilot but I still found it pretty easy to land. It does like a little throttle on landings. Can't wait to get back out there!

Yup, a little throttle (just enough to spin the prop) will cause drag and help you slow down.

Hi Guys...

Well... I was just out working on my latest Edge (that I actually bought a couple of months ago), and installing the servos in the wings, when I noticed a MAJOR twist in both ailerons..one up, one down. fortunately, a judicious application of heat to them allowed me to straighten it out, but this is ridiculous. Not only were the ailerons warped, but the rudder was too. I realize these planes are built light, and warps can happen, but the 3D Hobby Shop planes that I have are built just as light and I have never had any warps like this. This will be the last of these planes I buy.

SteveT

Well, my 3DHS arrived with a warp and wrinkled covering ... it's normal when exposed to temperature and humidity changes. Like you said, nothing that can't be fixed with a little heat.

Originally Posted by marc1

Well, my 3DHS arrived with a warp and wrinkled covering ... it's normal when exposed to temperature and humidity changes. Like you said, nothing that can't be fixed with a little heat.

Same here I've seen my share of warps. Figure temp changes during shipping in that metal cargo container. I'm surprised that there's not more warping,
Mike

Yup my ailerons and rudder were straight as an arrow, but my elevator was warped noticably... One minute with an iron and never a warp since...
bnick

every plane i've bought has come with warps and wrinkles. I have had 2 of these edges and 3 different 3dhs planes. I will admit that this plane had the worst though. But im thinking its cause i live in ny and it probly went from hot to frozen on the way here.

bigwood212...

Hey good to hear from you... Which 3DHS planes did you have and how well were they built... PM me.

bnick

[QUOTE=marc1;13685110]Looks good, I suspect your model will really come alive.

Is that your Watts output (ie: prop power) or input to the ESC? (ie: 14V x 49.5A) To calculate Watts output you need to know the prop RPM.

Hey Marc1! Watts up? The readings I took were straight from the E-Flite power meter. I don't have a tachometer (need to invest in one).

I had a huge "Butt Pucker" the first time I flew this plane. I think I'm a little over my head with this plane but, I am learning fast, and I like to live on the edge (no pun intended). .

I took big jumps in R/C lately. I went from Helis only, to planes. Helis were a little too pricey, and I found that it was too scary to have $2000 in the air (I had a JR vibe 50 with the best of everything). My first plane was a PZ Trojan (retired, but still alive), to a Mini-Pulse, to a Pulse XT 25, to the 540T. All in less than 6 months! Oh, I have a 3DH AJ SLICK 51" in the mail right now! Can't wait for that one!
This is fun! Thanks for the advice guys.

Originally Posted by SEAL

The readings I took were straight from the E-Flite power meter. I don't have a tachometer (need to invest in one).

Ok, so that's your power INPUT to the ESC. Power OUTPUT is a function of temperature, elevation, pressure, prop type, RPM, diameter and pitch.

Obviously you can tell in the air the different between 2 props and with a wattmeter you know you won't burn anything up. But if you can get the prop RPMS for a given voltage/current, then you can also measure the overall efficiency of your power system.

Keep the blue side up!

I'm in the process of putting together the Edge 540t. On page 13 of the instruction manual, item 4, it says to drill a 1/16" hole on the marks, drilling through the elevator. Attach the control horn to the elevator using two 2-56 x 3/4" machine screws.
If it doesn't call for using a nylon control horn backplate why would you drill completely through the elevator? Wouldn't you do it the same as with the rudder when installing the servo in the tail?

thinman

thinman...

Hi, Use the back-plates or get some as they are needed to support the control horn... Use your screws then CA both sides... I put a bit of blue thread locker on all screw or nut ends as added insurance for things not to come loose, including motor mount screws, servos, and landing gear... I hit everything also with thin CA when I'm all done as a second backup to securing everything even though it's been CA'd earlier...

I took my Edge 540T out yesterday as I do most everyday the winds are down and what a wonderful 9 minute flight with my timer set on my DX7... I was relaxed and my KE's and 3D stuff just clicked so nice, not that I'm a great flyer by any means... I just love scale touch and goes and this thing flies hands down easier than any of the easiest trainers I have had... This is seriously one of the finest RC planes I have ever owned going all the way back to 1969 when I was 19 years old flying pattern... I just totally relax when flying this plane... I treated myself to it for last Christmas and promised my wife I would not build it till after Christmas... I had it totally built and tested within hours of it arriving a week before Christmas, ha. I actually felt guilty which is rare for me, ha.

If you can read this whole thread... If you survive you will gain a lot of insight... Beef your gear area's front and rear a bit as well as motorbox to firewall... Light 3" thinwall tires work great for grass and dirt flying if needed...

I hope you really enjoy this plane as I have...
bnick

i didnt use the backplates cause they looked bad. I just cut some off the screws so they didnt go all the way threw, drilled the holes and put medium ca in them. It held fine like that. Also put ca on the control horn plate of course.

Hi Guys....

Sorry for the "ticked off" post about the ailerons, but I was really in a bad mood after drilling the holes for the back plates for the control horns. I have been building planes for many years, that that is the one thing that I have just never had good luck doing. It seems I can just never get them straight when drilling through a tapered control surface, and they just never line up with the plates. I should have just done like Bigwood did...or...why can't Great Planes learn from what other companies do (and Great Planes also does on some of there smaller planes) and use a control horn that is glued into a slot. I have never had one of those come loose....

SteveT

Originally Posted by Draknkep

Hi Guys....

Sorry for the "ticked off" post about the ailerons, but I was really in a bad mood after drilling the holes for the back plates for the control horns. I have been building planes for many years, that that is the one thing that I have just never had good luck doing.

What type of drill do you use?

I use a low-tack glue to hold the horn in place, mark the hole location with a thin tip marker, then use a pocket hand drill for the holes.

http://www.readyheli.com/Pocket_Dril...ocketdrill.htm