Micro Blade mCX from Eflite - Page 156 - RC Groups
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Dec 22, 2008, 12:22 PM
rather fly, but this'll do
krefi's Avatar
And if anyone could share a detailed account of their successful soldering procedure for this teeny tiny plug, I'd give many thanks. Soldering at this scale looks like something I could easily mess up big time, but I think I'm definitely a candidate for the fix.
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Dec 22, 2008, 02:51 PM
Full Scale Piper Cub Driver
Piper J3's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by krefi
And if anyone could share a detailed account of their successful soldering procedure for this teeny tiny plug, I'd give many thanks. Soldering at this scale looks like something I could easily mess up big time, but I think I'm definitely a candidate for the fix.
You need to disassemble the teeny tiny plug on the Heli first by lifting the plastic locking tangs – one for each pin/wire. Good to have magnifying glass and bright lighting available for this kind of work. Best to make a diagram of black and red wire with respect to red dot on plastic housing so you put it back together with correct polarity, otherwise you’ll probably make toast if you reassemble incorrectly. Now pull the wire/pins out of the plastic housing using small needle nose pliers and/or by pushing on end of pins – you need to experiment here to prevent bending/distorting the pins. At this point you should have individual wires/pins free from the plastic housing. Don’t panic... Use a “C” clamp or alligator clip to hold the wire approximately ½” from the pin and position the pin so that the crimp opening is “up”. This will free-up both of your hands so one hand can hold the soldering iron and other hand to feed solder. Now you are ready to solder. You will need a pencil tip soldering iron as used for circuit board work. Do not use a large soldering iron! If necessary, go to Radio Shack and open your wallet. While you’re at RS pick up some very thin gauge solder and also non-corrosive soldering flux. When iron is fully heated, you’re ready to solder as follows: Unroll a length of solder and dip end into flux – only very small amount of flux needed. Now using standard soldering techniques heat pin with iron and apply small amount of solder/flux first onto the open crimp of pin and then touch the iron to the pin itself in order to “tin” the pin. Pin should be bright and shinny, but without excess solder accumulation. Do both pins and then reinstall into plastic housing with correct polarity. Use needle nose pliers on wire just behind pin to push into housing. It’s OK to break off the plastic locking tangs – pins are a very snug press fit. If tangs break off then you can use a small jeweler flat blade screwdriver and pull/push the pins where the locking tang used to be. Make certain that both bins extend into plastic housing equal length. Doesn’t seem to be a problem if pins extend quite long into the housing. That should do it. Good luck and report back if further help/guidance is needed.
Dec 22, 2008, 02:53 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by krefi
And if anyone could share a detailed account of their successful soldering procedure for this teeny tiny plug, I'd give many thanks. Soldering at this scale looks like something I could easily mess up big time, but I think I'm definitely a candidate for the fix.
Yeah its not easy but when your wires pull out you have to try, so this is what I did! You lift the tag on the plastic plug so you can get the pin out, then you have to kind of open up the pin where the wires go in, I used a needle then push the wire back in, then only use a very small amount of solder as if you get a great big blob on it you cant get the pin back into the plastic plug so take your time and try to get it right first time, one pin went ok for me the other did not but got there in the end. For you guys that still have the wires in the pins its an easier job as you just have to solder them as they are and not try to get them back into the pin, as I said just a little solder, transformed my Mcx.
Dec 22, 2008, 03:40 PM
rather fly, but this'll do
krefi's Avatar
Awesome help. Many thanks!
Dec 22, 2008, 07:52 PM
Full Scale Piper Cub Driver
Piper J3's Avatar

Question about Swash Plate...


Today’s question for the MCX fraternity - I need an explanation of anti-rotation, or torque pin, on back on the back of the swash plate. Why is this not anchored more solidly? The pin on the swash plate is retained in a vertical grove on the main frame. This pin is normally about half way up the vertical groove but has a lot of free motion in the vertical direction. It seems to me that vertical motion should be limited to allow the servos to move the swash with more positive deflection. To this end, I have experimented by installing a small piece of rubber tubing in the vertical groove beneath the pin. Looked like it should have done the trick, but flight characteristics were nothing to write home about. I have compared both MCX’s I own and they both have same motion on back swash pin and they both fly the same. Can someone explain the rationale behind this design feature? I’m puzzled.
Dec 22, 2008, 07:58 PM
Rocket Programmer
jasmine2501's Avatar
Anti-rotation pin should not be limited in it's movement. It is there to prevent axial rotation of the swash plate, which would cause all kinds of problems. When the servo moves on the front, the leverage pushes the back side down, and you don't want to limit that. It needs to go down the same distance as the front goes up - and I mean the point directly across from it, not the servo ball link attachment point.
Dec 22, 2008, 08:59 PM
Full Scale Piper Cub Driver
Piper J3's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasmine2501
Anti-rotation pin should not be limited in it's movement. It is there to prevent axial rotation of the swash plate, which would cause all kinds of problems. When the servo moves on the front, the leverage pushes the back side down, and you don't want to limit that. It needs to go down the same distance as the front goes up - and I mean the point directly across from it, not the servo ball link attachment point.
That explains it then – the swash actually pivots about it’s center of rotation so the back goes down when front goes up and like that there. Makes good sense. I feel better now.
Dec 22, 2008, 11:15 PM
Rocket Programmer
jasmine2501's Avatar
Yup - it's very important on big helis, and on the Trex 450 and 250, one of the servos actually connects to it. CCPM helis have three servos on the swash, and the whole thing moves up and down and tilts in any direction - so the anit-rotation pin has a lot of travel on those and the bracket has to be tight and smooth.
Dec 22, 2008, 11:40 PM
I'm just a 2.5D Pilot
rickgode's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Piper J3
I just soldered the pins to the wires on battery connector as suggested by Steve Bisco and Wella... my high time MCX now flies 6+ minutes again on both of the batteries that previously went LVC at 3 min. Who’da thunk? I also “tinned” the pins themselves with solder and non-corrosive flux. They now look bright and shinny. Thank you Steve – doubt if I would have sleep tonight with such a massive problem looming at me.

Anyone experiencing shortened flight times needs to make this fix.

The tail plane has less shake and I do think machine has more power throughout 6 min flight regime. You the man Steve...
I came up with the same findings. After replacing the motors some batteries still gave me LVC too soon. I'm glad you did more investigating than me and will try the soldering mod tomorrow.

Ricky
Dec 23, 2008, 09:39 AM
Registered User
Thanks, glad to of been of help !!
Steve.
Dec 23, 2008, 10:56 AM
Registered User
BigGuyJT's Avatar
I guess theres no reason why I couldnt do a buddy box with this right? I mean this thing is so stable I shouldnt need too but I think my father would enjoy flying it.
Dec 23, 2008, 11:00 AM
Something Witty.
Court461's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by BigGuyJT
I guess theres no reason why I couldnt do a buddy box with this right? I mean this thing is so stable I shouldnt need too but I think my father would enjoy flying it.
haha, I would think you would just tell him to let go of the sticks, it will hover itself.
Dec 23, 2008, 07:22 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by RonD
I think that's what I said The axis of the fly bar (which is a mechanical gyro) is vertical. The flybar can only control the motion of the vertical axis (forward/backward tilt and side to side tilt) To control the yaw an electronic gyro is used because there is no mechanical gyro in the proper axis. To make it operate with no fly bar you would need at least one more electronic gyro.
2 more gyros, pitch and roll
Dec 23, 2008, 08:37 PM
Registered User
sky guy's Avatar

Schoonzilla v.s. Blade MCX


Schoonzilla is played by my cat Schooner who will never be accused of over-acting.

Enjoy the show
Dec 23, 2008, 08:48 PM
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goldenite007's Avatar
Lol! that was great! Editing was awesome . Wut did you use?


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