Kavan Parnetavia building tips - RC Groups
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Sep 05, 2001, 06:15 PM
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Kavan Parnetavia building tips


Just received my KP and beginning to build it. Does anyone have any building tips before I get into the nitty gritty of it? Thanks in advance, Cruz!
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Sep 05, 2001, 07:29 PM
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HI. Am building one right now. I have opted to cover the whole plane w/ silkspan (then paint it w/ a water-based acrylic). I usually finish my foam models w/ the latter,
w/c takes too much time, unfortunately.

Have also installed 2 geared (MPJ 3.33:1 planetary gears) sp400 6v, and plan to use 10x8 props and 8 cells.

Steven Horney has a construction article a month or two ago here at Ezone.


Sep 05, 2001, 10:50 PM
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This has been one of the most enjoyable planes I have flown.. very realistic take off and landing on the tricyle gear, and great aerodynamics.

Here are my tips:

1. Use 480's not 400's for more power.
2. Use an 8 Cell 2000 Min battery. (I have Sanyo 2400 and am very happy)
(a 6.5/3.5 prop -no gearing- worked well for me in this configuration)
3. Used 5 Min Epoxy for the whole plane with great results and strenght.
4. Re-inforce all control surfaces (ailerons, Elevator etc.) Just the plastic sticky stuff is not enough.
5. Use a stronger "Nye" rod instead of the flimsy wire that comes with the plane for servos-control surface control.
6. Improve ventilation to the battery, or it will *cook* inside the "perfectly" insulated foam cockpit
I took a radical approach and drilled a big 3/4inch hole from the tip of the nose to the cockpit, then cut exit vents near the back of the cockpit to the outside. This *greatly* improved the heat issue with the battery.

Sep 06, 2001, 06:30 PM
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What did you do to re-inforce the control surfaces? Also, I don't understand what a "nye" rod is? Thanks for the building tips, Cruz.
Sep 06, 2001, 08:21 PM
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I re-inforced the control surfaces with the "plastic" hinges that you would normally use on a balsa plane. It took patience to epoxy them into the foam, and get them perfectly straight. But I felt much better about the strength of the surfaces in the end.

The rods I mentioned are the common control rods that consist of a stiff cylindrical plastic shell with a moving plastic rod inside, connected to the servo on one end and the control horn of the aileron etc. on the other.(see link below -I used yellow/red)

I used a Hitec HS-422 servo for the control of the rudder/nosewheel for extra power. All other controls a HS-81 (or equivilent) should be fine.

Sep 06, 2001, 10:12 PM
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ok, thanks, I'll look into the hinges and nye rods.

Another question, when running the control rod from the servo to the nose wheel, how did you make the "tunnel" from the nose gear up into the fuselage?? The instructions say "use a 3mm (1/8")diam. brass tubing which has filed sharp edges at one end." This is getting a little tricky. Thanks for your help. Cruz
Sep 07, 2001, 01:30 AM
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What I did was drill out a hole, with a drill bit that was slightly bigger than the outer shell of the control rod tubing. (yes the instructions are confusing)

Once had everything else in place and tested for positioning etc. I expoxied the the shell into place.

If you use my solution, your hole should start about 2 1/2 inches behind the nose wheel axle, and come up at the front-bottom of the cockpit. Try and minimize the the natural friction caused by bends in the rod as much as possible, to reduce the work for the servo.

Sep 07, 2001, 02:31 PM
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Sure thing. By the way here are some pics:

.. And some aerial pics I took with my Partenavia after some custom mods.
Sep 07, 2001, 03:23 PM
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Thanks and the pics look great!!
Sep 07, 2001, 04:42 PM
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Do you have any more pics?

Can you email me at dlilley@ezonemag.com?
Sep 08, 2001, 01:37 AM
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ok, got it, I'll use a drill bit as you did. Thanks for all your help, please keep checking this post. I'll probably need your help a little more,

thanks again,,, Cruz
Sep 08, 2001, 01:51 AM
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Just got my plane and wonder how yours ended up weight-wise? Have you tested for the best balance point for neutral stability? What gage wire did you use for the motor leads? Where is the heat vent hole? Are the wheels and pants suitable for grass ROG or should a larger diameter wheel be installed? Are the recommended control throws OK?
Very nice pics! Looks like a real challenge to keep from going over the edge on landing.

[This message has been edited by Jim Petro (edited 09-08-2001).]
Sep 08, 2001, 01:59 AM
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When you get yours ready to fly, let me know and I'll bring my camera.

Sep 08, 2001, 02:35 PM
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As for the ventilation, I took a radical approach. I drilled a 3/4 inch hole horizontally from the tip of the nose of the plane back to the cockpit. This way, as the plane flies the air is forced in. As for exit holes, I cut 2 holes, one on each side, from the very back of the cockpit(inside) to the outside. (on a backwards angle)

I found that this made a world of difference for keeping the battery temperature cooler. It's maybe not the most "pretty" solution, but I usually don't care about that anyway.

I have only used the stock wheels on a firmly packed dirt runway, and they work fine for that. For grass I would definitely go with bigger wheels, I suspect the plane would just sink in and not move with the smaller ones.

CG is 1/4 to 1/3 from front of leading edge of the wing, and it seems to fly great. Throws are good.

I'll get back to you on the weight.


Sep 08, 2001, 02:49 PM
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By the way, in case you haven't found it, there is a great review on the Partenavia posted: