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Sep 06, 2001, 10:51 AM
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Can I use this type of battery with a Soarstar?

I'll be getting my Soarstar in the next couple of days. Time to start spending money on more batteries and a decent (but inexpensive charger). I've seen postings in this forum that recommend the radio shack 9.6V 1600Mah NiMH battery which sort of looks like this:

I've found a site that sells relatively cheap NiCad version of this, does anybody have any experience with this, or should I stick to what I can buy in a hobby shop? Also anybody know where I can pick up a decent AC/DC peak charger for minimal $$$?

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Sep 06, 2001, 11:37 AM
Registered User
Not sure on the battery, but why did you choose a Soarstar, perhaps over a Wingo? See my post on Soarstar verses Wingo. Thanks
Sep 06, 2001, 11:17 PM
Registered User
If you're interested, I think the Radio Shack battery mentioned is approximately this:

and is available here: me=CTLG&category%5Fname=CTLG%5F004%5F010%5F000%5F0 00&product%5Fid=23%2D331

I'm new at this - what kind of connector does the SoarStar have to the battery?

I'm also interested to hear people's experiences on chargers. Is the supplied one really unacceptable?


[This message has been edited by AdamD (edited 09-06-2001).]
Sep 06, 2001, 11:40 PM
You're probably better off with the Radio Shack pack. It's proven, and the NiMH cells will outdo the NiCads in endurance hands down.

The Soarstar has a "standard" connector, identical to the one at Radio Shack. This connector is also known as a Tamiya connector (female) or Kyosho connector (male). (I think those are the correct genders.)

Sorry I can't help much with the charger choices. I'm of the opinion that says "buy once", so I bought an AstroFlight 110D. Model Airplane News did an article on chargers in their newest issue, if I remember correctly.

No matter what, get a peak charger. The included timer charger is probably okay, but it won't work on packs rated higher than 600mAh, and you risk overcharging your packs if they aren't completely discharged. A peak charger will shut off or change to trickle once your battery is charged to keep from damaging it. I'm a safe kind of person, and I insist on using a peak charger.

BTW, the AstroFlight 110D is DC/DC and needs their $90 AC/DC converter or equivalent to use AC power. Be careful of amp ratings there: their unit is rated 12.5A and one my dad found around the house is only rated at 3A! It's a great charger, though, and well worth $100-$110 many are asking for it (or around $75-80 used if you can find one still available. Check the forums).

Finally, general rule of thumb: for a given mAh and voltage, NiCad weighs more and provides more current output, whereas NiMH weighs less and has a lower current output limit. NiCad = performance. NiMH = endurance.

Have fun!

Oct 01, 2001, 09:23 AM
Thread OP
I bought a RS battery, but I've discovered 2 things about it that I wanna share. I bought the 1600 mAH battery and it is considerably heavier than the stock 800 mAH NiCD that came with the plane, this will effect placement of the battery. It charges well with the RS universal charger (permanently onsale for $29 at my local RS). I get flying times in excess of 20 minutes with this battery (as opposed to less than 10 with the NiCD), BUT it does feel quite a bit less powerful than the NiCD. With the NiCD, I can do 3 consecutive looks with the Soarstar, while the RS will only allow one at a time. I'm figuring that the battery makes between 1/4 and 1/3 less power than the NiCD. ROG takeoffs take in excess of 20+ feet, while the NiCD will do it in 1/2 the space (I'm guessing that it's a combination of both the weight and power). I'm going to try the RS NiCD 1000mAH battery next. Hopefully this will have the best of both worlds, longer duration, but higher power. Whadda ya guys thing?

Oct 01, 2001, 12:50 PM
buy a 10 pack of sermos (power pole) connectors and convert ALL of your connectors. you are losing a lot of power to the tamiya which is a car type and high resistance.
Oct 01, 2001, 12:57 PM
Registered User
Kevin Murray's Avatar
f2 - I also would recomend the RS pack, it's a known. It works and at arround $25 it's a good deal for a ready to use pack. It will take the amps needed for a geared set-up. (based on my wingo exp with geared) Definatly trash the connector.
Oct 01, 2001, 01:24 PM
Thread OP
How much power am I loosing out of the connectors? The RS NiMH pack seems to make the Soarstar almost underpowered. How Are people just crimping new connectors on or are you soldering them?

Oct 01, 2001, 02:25 PM
Registered User
Kevin Murray's Avatar
I think in a typical set-up you loose 10 watts to heat in a Tamia/RS connector. I think that is what the S&E Modeler test on connectors said.
So that is 10 - 20 %. for a Sp 400 app.
Oct 01, 2001, 02:30 PM
Thread OP
Wow, 10-20%! Where do I get these connectors from?


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