kellys set up
go to your local home depot or lowes and pick up a roll of yellow Kelly's 183 - - in the roofing section.
take the cloth, start at the base of the keel (wing root) and lay it out over the bottom of the wing so that it runs about 1" of overrun past the trailing edge of the wing (yes, you start and the back and go foreward so that the seam is not exposed to the airflow
using a very sharp scissors - cut the kelly's 2" past the wing tip.
roll out another sheet and lay it with 1/2" overlap with the aft sheet. It should only sit on the tip at the tip.
Take the scissors again and cut the kellys so that it extends to the same point as the other sheet.
Do the same for both sides. of the bottom of the wing
take your scissors and cut a few of the treads around the servo horn extends so that you can gain access to it and allow it to move.
cut the cloth around the motor mount so that it lays as flat as possible.
Take the wing OUTSIDE.
bring your spray 77 and lightly apply a thin coat over the bottom of the wing and along the leading and trailing edges of the wing.
Let the wing sit outside for 15 minutes then bring it inside
lay the aft cloth down first and gently (with a piece of wrapped piece of wax paper as a tool) smooth the cloth onto the wing.
Take the wing outside again and apply another light coat.
lay the second piece of cloth down and do the same . . use the wax paper to rub it in and work it into the corners and around them. . . . leading and trailing edges.
work the motion in the same direction - I use root to tip to prevent the cloth from moving.
Once you have stuck the cloth down on the bottom of the wing, take the wing outside again and apply a light coat of Spray 77. Use the wax paper to work the glue into the cloth. Apply several light layers as it will dry faster and easier....too much at once may burn the foam...be careful!
Once finished, work the cloth 1/2" onto the top of the leading edge and the traling edge, work it even with the top of the wing.
Use painters tape to hold the cloth on the top even with the untacked surface and let it sit overnight.
In the am, cut the cloth flush with the top of the trailing edge top of the wing and 1/2" back on the leading edge
With one day's drying, the wing went from 7.2 oz to 6.7... that means that the weight of the bottom covering added 1.1 oz.
This glue will dry more over the next couple of days and week before I am ready to cover it...
top half next!
top is the same set up with the exception that you have no keel two servo horns and the open area for the battery and radio gear.
Set up your sheets to overlap in the middle by 2"
cut the sheets to make them nice and straight
take an exacto and make cuts where the servo arms poke out so that they can move freely
Cut the sheets to go around the motor mount stick
cut a line 45 degrees to the prop area and where it bends again.....straight off of the tip . . .
lightly coat the wing then apply each sheet as described above.
once finished, let the leading edge overlap the bottom cloth by 1" and bring it over the edge and level with the bottom of the wing.
Let the entire wing sit for the night then check the seams. Add a little spray glue if needed, otherwise, let it sit in your trunk for the day!
DO NOT BREATH THE FUMES . . . . . read the can label before during and after use . . . . . . .
I highly suggest only doing this if you car is sitting in a parking lot and you are not in it as this glue is strong.
Open you car windows to let a little cross wind through..
once it has stuck . . . .
and dried to the point it is not sticking to your hands every time you touch it...
trim the excess off and use some spray glue if needed to stick the edges.
let it sit for another day if you sprayed it again as the glue must have most of it's fumes out before you try to cover it or it will discolor your covering!
radio and battery box cleanout!
cutting inside the area by 1/2", cut a box in the middle of each area then cut from the corners at 45 degree angles to the box.
fold the excess cloth down the sides
cut the cloth even with the tips using a razor blade.
use a little gorilla glue to make the cloth stick if it keeps coming up.
radio gear and motor priorities
I like to get my radio gear, motor and prop ..elevons then tips worked out before I finish my model.
This works well in the past in that I can limit anything messing up my finish trying to jockey stuff that may need a cut here or a cut there to make it fit...
once something is covered it is hard to "cover" a fix...might as well make it easy on yourself test it all first!
you are going to set up and test the motor, radio elevons and tips
winglet and elevon painting
Made the final adjustments and installed the control horns, I used the Dubro 1/2A horns - my favorite! then uninstalled them
Cut the bevel using my dremel router table . . a must have for the new builder...
Install a bevel router bit and run your stock down it and a perfect 45 degree bevel!
Hit the elevons with 2 coats of cheapo walmart primer then sanded with 400 grit paper between coats
painted two coats of sun burst yellow and let it sit all day . . .
installed the motor and 2500 mah 3s battery, placed it up on the cg machine and the wing balanced slightly tail heavy.
I am going to try a few other packs to see if I can move it some more forward to get it to balance without any other weight.
This is not a bad thing as I made the set up around the heaviest battery I had (4s 3300).
The motor mount is turning out to me a vexation though . . . .
More later...time for bed!
the motor mount I chose because it was light and tight, setting the motor right up tight against the motor beam and the shaft to limit the deviation fromthe thrust line.
The motor is paired with this mount from several vendors and I have seen it used in many other threads - -
obviously what works for some is not working for me!
The BP motors high torque but not so much that they should be able to twist the mount off the beam or the base of the motor out of the mount...this is where I am
I tried to mount it several different ways only to find that as the throttle was advanced past about 1/2 throttle, the base of the motor would spin in the mount.
I tried a second mount I had picked up to the same end.
I tried a little thread lock permenent even and that did not seem to prevent the motor from coming loose from the mount.
The twisiting around the mount last night caused the motor wires to wrap around the base and short out against the mount itself...luckily I bought two of these when I made my order
So the long and short of it is that the mount that I was so impressed with is a non starter causing reengineering of the mount for another motor mount and - base to the motor - - what does all this mean in the short term - - more weight aft of the CG
I know this will be a temporary thing as the goal right now is to get this thing in the air by the weekend so - -
Last edited by pval3; Oct 14, 2008 at 03:25 PM. Reason: motor mount update
motor mount update.
When I bought these motors they came with the golden mounting flange which I removed to accommodate the light weight bolt on mount.
Now that the light weight bolt on mount is not viable, I have reinstalled the golden base and installed a rather meaty mount that should not have the slightest issue with the torque of the motor and will hold it firmly.
Since my goal right now is to get it airborne this weekend, the job will be temporary and ugly - did I mention that the weight is going to be an source of frustration too!
I am fortunate that the CG range is as wide as it is and the plane is as versitile as it is....
The mount I am using is 9X the weight of the smaller one and the gold mounting flange adds 23% to the weight of the motor! Not happy!
We have the technology and the parts to make this work . . fly baby fly ! saturday and sunday are suppose to be just fantastic days - warm and clear - perfect for a maiden flight and my wife is willing to do the camera work for me - little window - big stretch!@
Last edited by pval3; Oct 14, 2008 at 03:31 PM. Reason: mount update
ready for the next step . . . final balance and control check
check your throws and reflex:
Here are the specs:
CG with 2400 mah 3 s lipo at 6 3/4"
(with 1/2 oz lead on nose to counter new mounting configuration. will be removed once motor mount is redone after maiden)
3/16" up to start (maybe way too much but this is where I like to start)
100% = 1/2" up and down
dual rates set to 1/4" up and down
100% = 3/16" up and down
dual rates set to - 1/4" up and down
elevon mixing enabled
no differential in ailerons
temporarily using strapping tape and painters tape to hold hatch down until motor mount is finalized.
Last edited by pval3; Oct 14, 2008 at 03:38 PM.
maiden flight video up!
Video - McClain Wing Cores MCW 48"
Here is the maiden of my 48" McClain Wing Cores.
All I can say is - wow! another fantastic model designed by Jeff
I opted to change this over to a tower pro set up to try to see how the old Wild Wing "gizzards" would fit in something a little more upscale instead of the monster power and speed of a rite wing.
The plane flies better than I expected, handled wind of 17+ mph without a hitch and was very very maneuverable, especially in consideration that my rates were dialed down to 45% for the first flight!
CG was set at 7" and the tower pro motor was set up with an APC 8X4 prop, 30 amp esc and 3s 2400 3s pack (right out of my wild wing.).
The airplane was not a barn door burner but the acceleration and climb were out of control...man - these tower pro motors pack some torque!
I was very impressed by the slow speed handling and the ability of the airplane to be slowed back to thermal.
In the last flight of the day, I nailed a tight, fast boomer and rode it up to about 400'. Running a park GWS receiver, this was about the top of what I felt comfy with but the thing went right up in the lift with little effort!
Climbs were out of control - straight up and accelerating!
Top end with this set up was only about 45 - 55 mph at tops, the climbs were impressive and the maneuverability in the wind was the best of any of the wings I have flown yet!
The majority of the flights were done at 1/3 throttle except for climbs as the field was tight and the winds were honking!
My "pit crew" had a blast as this was the first time my girls (1.5 and 3) have come out to fly with me doing a test flight.
The reward for their great help and behavior was the play area at this great park my wife found for me to fly!
Thanks to Jeff for the great design!
more on the first day of flying
I ended up putting three packs through the bird with the helter skelter mount that i set up for the maiden.
The best way I can relate flying this airplane in relation to the other wings I have flown is that it handles just as smoothly and predictably as you can ask for. It is very maneuverable when the rates are flipped up to 100% yet with the low ratess it is not lacking in its ability to turn tight and go where you want it to for landing and manuevering.
The tower pro motor I used was of the type that I used in several airplanes in the past with the same type prop. It has an almost throaty sound on the wing, very unique.
The majority of the flying in the video was done at 1/3 throttle as the MCW 48" flew respectibly with very little power and climbs were donw at full throttle until approaching the height I wanted then pulled back to cruise. The flight speeds were respectible, not barn door buring but for a large wing that one would want to fly in tight spaces, this was the perfect match as the climb rate was extreamly high and the climb angle was almost 70 degrees!
I am guessing that my top speed was somewhere around 60 - 65 and the slowest speed I got it was about 12-15 for landing and a few slow passes (winds were gusting making real slow ops not possible). I was not pushing it to any means as it was just too rough out to really feel comfortable.
aerobatics were done at 1/2 throttle - Loops were effortless, rolls were smooth in both directions and inverted turns were done with just a click of trim on elevons and ailerons niiiiice. Setting up for passes down field was a piece of cake - when you hit the throttle, the airplane immediately accellerated and climbed like a scalded dog very impressive for me as well as those around!
Landing pattern work was a breeze - new plane, new field and lots of trees required a little more attention than usual but this plane just grooves. It is much more stable than the 36" and much lighter wing loading than any of the other wings I have currently flying. It is appreciably more predictable than the wild wing and is much better handling in the wind due to the greater span than a wild wing...yet has the same flying gear.
The trees surrounding the area where I was flying are about 50' - 70' high and gave a perfect break to the heavy winds on the day I flew.
Trying to get a speed bird out of this field - or back in for that matter, would be a bear as the trees are high and the field is relatively tight. I would have to work considerably harder with any other airplane with the exception of a slow or park flier, but the plane worked beautifully within the area! Very perdictable even with a 17kt (+gusts) wind on tight turns with no stalls even when i wrapping it around to get in close so I wouldnt have to walk to pick it up
The MCW 48" has a nice airfoil that holds energy well and penetrates even better in the winds! There were a few thermals popping on the last flight as the wind died down a little. I was able to see, clearly, that I was in the lift and turn on a dime to put the 48" right back into the thermal and core it...climb was great and popped out early as I have a simple GWS park receiver running for the tests.
Luckily I made all my cut outs big enough that I think I can fit my smaller dual conversion receiver in there and really let it go.
I built this with the Kellys and Spray77 and I can tell you now that it is complete that this IS the way to go. You do add more weight than you would with just the tape but . . . this thing is one tough cookie. It carries the weight well and is still light enough to take advantage of light lift.
The durability and flexibility of this finish method is well worth the effort as it will yield a much tougher airplane. The .75oz cloth yields the prettiest finish but that is not necessarily what you would want on an airplane you want to really feel comfortable wrining out!
After discussing the issue with a few folks who have played with this mount in the past, they recommended either cleaning everything down on the motor then sanding with 220 grit paper, laying down a nice bead of thread lock and letting the motor sit for a day or two before playing with it. This may cure the problem with the motor spinning in the mount. I will try this and see where it gets me but am not holding my breath. I was very disenchanted with the durability of this mount. If it were made out of something a little more meaty it would probably be fine, this one was just junk...
I will have to put this bird up for a few weeks until I finish the 48" starfire. I just have to paint it and remount everything before it goes up for its maiden - - looking at maybe next week if I can get a nice, low humidity, day to paint it.
Thanks to all who provided input and special thanks to Jeff McClain for putting out yet another fantastic flier - as far as I am concerned, this is the best of the tree I have built so far.
This airplane is nothing but a good, solid, maneuverable yet forgiving plane that you can easily look good tearing up the sky with just about any power system you have around on any day you want to go flying...this airplane is going to be a permanent fixture in my trunk for tossing up on my way home from work!
more flying info
This is the big full quality video - high bandwidth
I have been out flying the 48 a few times since the maiden but have not changed the mount nor removed the lead from the nose, been working on the Starfire with every spare moment to get it going.
Here are some observations:
high angle climbs are amazong with this plane, the power of this cheapo $9.99 motor absolutely amazes me! Aftr a little shopping at HC, I found that they are marketing these motors under their own label of tunigy. They are selling a 1400Kv and a 1600Kv version of this motor for - - - -$6.99
So basically, you can grab a motor, esc combo for 14.99, a 2200 mah 3s pack for 19.99 and two servos for 7.00 - -total: 32.00 plus 7.00 shipping - -that total is less than the price of the cheapest 20 amp esc from tower hobbies and you have everything you need to get the plane in the air . . oh, add 4.99 for the turnigy 2/3s simple charger and . . your done! 35 bucks is the price of the esc that matches specs with the one that hobby city sells with this motor . . . wow...amazing!
Either way . . .to the inportant stuff
On the flights, I have been swapping between the 3s 2000 and the 3s 2400 (pretty close in weight as one os 15c and one os 30c) and trying different wing and temp scenarios with the plane to get a better idea of its capabilities and limitations.
I have been trying to get it to spin from slow tight turns and have had limited luck getting it to spiral unless I really push it into it from a high and sight deliberate control input.
I have tried some real tight climbs and done stalls from the high power with favorable stall charachteristics. . the plane occasianally drops one wing but by releasing the controls, the plane comes out effortlessly.
Stalls straight are the same . . no tendency to drop one wing over the other and pretty tame drop of the nose in the full stall.
The loops are nice and smooth and the rolls are nice a radial, no real wobble like some of the faster wings have . . nice positive control through all maneuvers.
I have had two hard hits since I got it in the air, both my fault.
I hit a tree stump on one and i hit a bush on another trying to muscle it into and out of a field that I really had no business flying in . . .it just looked like a nice plane to fly!
Both times, the wing hit at a descent clip, the epp absorbed the hit both times with no damage to the wing and on the tree stump, I caught the tip which whipped the plane back up into the air and frisbee tossed it up to 4' and about 8' down further...usually this would have been the end of the leading edge on most airplanes. The EPP again picked up the impact without harming the virgin foam and the worse thing that occured on that hit was I broke a winglet, the blenderm held better than the wood could take.
I am completely impressed by the Kelly's and spray 77. I realize this is a little more work than the usual tape but . . in my experience, this is the strongest mix I have ever seen on a foam airplane -- - well, on any airplane!
Last edited by pval3; Nov 06, 2008 at 09:49 AM.
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