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Aug 19, 2010, 10:39 PM
KJ4YNM
RCPtero's Avatar
Well, she's starting to look like a bird!
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Aug 20, 2010, 01:56 PM
God is my pilot
JimTMich's Avatar
Looking good!
Aug 29, 2010, 07:40 PM
Registered User
dswitkin's Avatar
Cool, keep the photos coming!
Oct 06, 2010, 02:06 PM
Registered User
Salty79's Avatar

Got one!


I started the 52" version last night. I started with the head and neck while I wait on my out-runners to arrive. Are there any tips, tricks, or mods that I should know about ahead of time?

Salty
Oct 11, 2010, 03:15 AM
SINK HAPPENS !!!!
EeleyEagle's Avatar
Don't rush the build. Make sure you understand the instructions and make sure you have the latest instructions as improvements are always being made. This model will reward you for your efforts. I used Profilm for covering because of the compound curves and it paid off.
Andrew
Oct 11, 2010, 10:41 AM
God is my pilot
JimTMich's Avatar
Yes, take it slow as some of the sheeting will look better if you sand it to fit. It's a fun model to build and fly. It's a very unique model so it draws a lot of interest at the field. Go with higher kv motors as suggested by Petroworks, this plane really is fun to fly fast, I wish I had put in the 1400kv motors instead of the 1000kv.
Oct 13, 2010, 06:18 PM
Registered User
Salty79's Avatar
I have already bought the motors. I've got two Turnigy 2826 1900kv http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=2110
It looks like they are similar to the AXI 2208. I'm almost done with the head and neck. I always save the wings for last. How many of you put the 2 oz of lead in the nose like the plans call for? It just seems like a lot of lead!

Salty
Oct 14, 2010, 06:38 PM
God is my pilot
JimTMich's Avatar
I put a lot of lead in the nose to get the CG right. I left one piece of the head open until the model was completely built and covered, then ballanced with lead, and glued the last of the head and added the last piece of covering. It's necessary, don't fret too much about it, it was necessary to make the proportions right.
Oct 14, 2010, 06:40 PM
God is my pilot
JimTMich's Avatar
Those motors should be great.
Oct 14, 2010, 07:12 PM
Registered User
Based on my experience (admittedly with the larger version) you don't want to be short on lead in the nose. You definitely do not want a too rear CG. Been there, done that - not an enjoyable experience...

So don't be tempted to move the CG rear of the recommended position to save a bit of weight - at least until after you have actually flown your creation.

Tim
Oct 17, 2010, 05:43 AM
SINK HAPPENS !!!!
EeleyEagle's Avatar
I agree with all of the above. Put all the necessary lead you need in the head and it will pay off.Being short coupled you can't afford to get the C of G wrong.
Andrew
Nov 16, 2010, 04:01 PM
Registered User
Salty79's Avatar
I'm at the part of the build where I need to mount the motors. I was wondering how others did it. Did you use nylon screws? Also for the push rods, what brand and size did you use? Thanks for the help

Salty
Nov 16, 2010, 04:20 PM
God is my pilot
JimTMich's Avatar
I used some regular screws that were of the proper lenght to get through the plywood. I did not use the x plate that came with the motor. I think motor mounting is open to creativity depending on what motors you use.

Pushrods, I used some dubro parkflyer pushrods that come with tubes. That keeps the pushrods from flexing. On the ailerons I simply used piano wire from the hardware store.
Nov 17, 2010, 09:40 AM
Registered User
Salty79's Avatar
Can you get to the screws in the back of the motor now that it's built and finished?

Salty
Nov 17, 2010, 11:35 AM
God is my pilot
JimTMich's Avatar
No, the way I built it, the motors are there for the durration of the model. As I recall, there wasn't enough room to use the x-mounts with the 28mm motors I bought. x-mounts would have allowed front access.


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