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I like the led idea, i did it on mine, but put mine inside, attatched to the rear of the battery tray area. 10 x supabright white leds.
Led's have little madnifying lense's on them, making them very directional, in daylight, they are only visible when looking directly at them i found. Next Mirage i make, i will put them in the rear exhaust ducting as you describe Brent. I think when i do my next one, i will point them backwards, i will dig out the foam all round at the rear exhaust duct anyways, and attatch a clear accetate thrust tube off the back of the fan reducing to the 78mm. This will leave about 10mm space all round to seat the leds, silver lining is a good idea also, and the leds will be visible from behind though the spacing, as well as through the clear accetate duct. I have stobes in my wingtip leading edges, they are pretty cool, very visible in daylight, and a nice touch also. Im nearly ready for a new Mirage, my test bed mirage has only one last motor to test out on it. It has so much epoxy in the rear of it now from cutting her open to change motors/esc's, that i can jokingly say she's a composite jet now, lol cheers |
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Pics Babs, Pics!
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Thanks boys. I guess the answer is I don't need to worry about any issues with them behind the fan. I'm planning on using orange LEDs with frosted not clear lens. These have a spread more in the 30 to 40 degree range (yes less intensity cause of the frost) and would light up the inside of the tail cone more even and more coverage After what Wobby mentioned about using accetate Im thinking that would be a cleaner look and keep the LEDs out of the fan flow.
So Wobby do you mean you would not reduce the size of the tail cone and the accatate would be the reduction. And if so would you fill the gap between the tail cone and the acatate at the very tail or would you just leave the gap? How would one make the acatate piece? Would it be a cone rolled from flat stock and seamed? Lastly are your wing tip LEDs white or red and green? Cheers Brent |
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I want to use the bolts at the rear of the wing and glue my wing on at the seams too. Maybe that way I can get to my Speed Controller as it is in the main body duct behind the canopy. I would hate to have fully glued on the wing in that case. Babs |
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Leds look the flavour of the month, i like it.lol Brent, the wingtip thingys are actual stobe lights, not leds, they are white,. If i can find a link to similar, i'll post it for everyone. My next build i will not reduce the tail, just the accetate. Current jet i have a reduced tail and still managed to get the accetate sheet cut to size, then inserted into place for a supa smooth outlet, if you'de seen how hacked mine has become, you know why i went the accetate. lol. The accetate is rigid enough if attatched to the rear of the fan housing not to need support at the tail end. Art supply shops carry accetate in sheets of variying thickness, pretty cheap to buy, better than acrylic or polycarb sheet, as it doesn't crack when bent. C.A. really glues the stuff well if its roughed up a little with sandpaper. Tape works good too. lol Babs, click (manage attachments) button when doing a reply post, that will allow you to add pictures. cheers |
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How about this motor :
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...hless_Inrunner from the rule of thumb above: aggressive on Stock Fan , OK on the lower side of the WemoTec , how will the mirage handle the extra weight in the tail of a 390gr motor ? is this better for the WeMoTec : http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/s...hless_Inrunner thanks Aviv |
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Babs, I see you are placing your esc up front as I did. Couple things to keep in mind. It does change the cog. I had to move my battery back a good ways to get the correct cog. It may not weight much, but waaaay back on the tail it would make a difference.
Also, I think the long wires to the motor caused glitching with my radio. My maiden was a controllable crash in a bean field. I tested for days trying to find out the problem. I basically had everything spread out on the floor and as soon as the motor powered up my range went to crap and I had glitching. I tried all new tx and rx and even different frequencies etc. The only way I fixed it was to go with a 2.4 radio. I needed to upgrade anyway. Otherwise, I have read that the motor wires can be longer than the battery wires without performance issues. Also, I didnt want the esc right before or after the fan. Especially since the castle creations HV85 is huge! Good luck! By wood glue I mean this stuff http://www.acehardware.com/product/i...ductId=1274156 |
Latest blog entry: Other Hobbies that steal $ from my RC...
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Techspy I am using a DX7 2.4ghz radio sho hopefully will be glitch free. I did a quick cog test and it was slightly nose heavy so hopefully will be ok. It will be hard to move my battery back or front now as I have glued the 2 halves together so hoping it will be ok. Thanks for the info on the glue, I will see if I can get something similar here in Australia.
cheers Babs |
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Babs, good pics, but i cant see the battery in the battery photo, lol.
Easy to make room further back for the battery if needed, a little creative use of a soldering iron does wonders. Blacksea, pretty much what BrentP said. Plus i'd like to add, I wouldn't trust those motors, i know, sounds like im being a HC/UH hater, lol. But the times ive heard where HC motors have been used have ended in tears. Stock fan, do not go above 1600kv on 6S. Any higher your into the danger zone, the stock fan explode quite easilly. The weight's no problem in the tail, plenty of room to move batteries forward as needed. The Motorshaft can not be less than 17mm long, i beleive, for the addpater to fit properly and securely. cheers |
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Blacksea you emailed me about the wemotec rotor right? if you want speed and reliability you need a decent motor as well, while its not cost effective to send out just a rotor overseas, it certainly is if you need motor and other parts as well!
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Latest blog entry: Extreme RC AUSTRALIA
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