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Old Jun 12, 2008, 04:55 AM
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Build Log

Carpetbaggers Mosquito from Ivan's plans


Well here I am at last. I've cleared the decks, spread out the plans and made a start.

A blank canvas! whoopee! In my mind's eye it'll be perfect. Straight and square, easy to fly, authentically finished. That'll be a first then.

I'm not sure the world needs another black Mosquito. If you want to see a really good one, have a look at the build thread by Pentaxman, last year.

This is my second Ivan Pettigrew build. If it gives me as much fun as my Minicat I'll be delighted.

Here goes
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Old Jun 12, 2008, 05:59 AM
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Hi Nick,
May I be the first to congratulate you on starting your Mosquito - don't forget to take lots of pics - and post them here - I'll do my best to egg you on!
Paul W.
Old Jun 12, 2008, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulbw
Hi Nick,
May I be the first to congratulate you on starting your Mosquito - don't forget to take lots of pics - and post them here - I'll do my best to egg you on!
Paul W.
Thanks Paul.

Please do. I need all the help I can get.

cheers

Nick
Old Jun 12, 2008, 12:39 PM
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Subscribed.

No luck needed Nick, just forward preparation as with any plan built plane.

Shout if I can help.

What mods are you planing if any?
Split wing?
Brushless motors?

For those who wish to see the build thread Nick mentioned above, please follow this link

http://www.rchobbyhub.com/index.php?...asc&highlight=
Last edited by pentaxman; Jun 12, 2008 at 01:02 PM. Reason: Link added
Old Jun 12, 2008, 01:58 PM
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Sign me up too! And I've added this thread to the Ivan sticky list, so you know.

The second one goes much better in my experience!

Luke
Old Jun 12, 2008, 03:37 PM
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Luke!

I've been looking at the pictures from Chilliwack (have I spelt that right?) 2008. Your Solent looks spiffing!

I see Mountainman was having some bother with his Aquastar. I can help with that. Mine went beautifully with 2 small mods... One was a seriously high thrust line with a 160 watt motor and the other was spray rails, about 3/8" of clear plastic from a pop bottle. Once I stopped it from trying to be a submarine it was lots of fun. And Ivan's still flying his Seagull I see. Similar configuration to the Aquastar, but it works properly of course. No surprises there! It was the Aquastar that introduced me to float flying and subsequently your Ivan Pettigrew thread. I just wish it was easy to get a large plane to a lake nearby, with a rescue boat and reliable weather.

Hey- ho. I still fly my Minicat from the grass in the field behind my house. We surprised a microlight pilot and a hot air balloon the other day. Hah!

cheers

Nick
Old Jun 13, 2008, 02:46 AM
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The next step


The motors I bought when I originally planned this project have been kept to one side for 12 months now. They are outrunners, 103 gms each, 1000Kv HiModel 2814-8T. The supplier's test sheet shows 300w from 10x7 props. Much more than I need. I'm going to try the GWS 3 blade 9 x 5. Spinners will be a problem. The GWS 3 blade spinners are much smaller than I need. Maybe there's a trick involving making a hole in a block of balsa and sticking it over the GWS spinners. Then spinning it and turning it down to the right size. All ideas will be gratefully received.

cheers

Nick
Old Jun 13, 2008, 04:36 AM
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Hi Nick,

I've subscribed too and look forward to following the build. I turned up a balsa master for a build of mine and used it to press-mould acetate spinners. The process is really easy, and I expect that a proper vac-moulding would get better results. Use thick acetate for rigidity, since it has to stretch quite a long way! Once you have trimmed the cut-out for the prop, you can use an old GWS black rubber (?) spinner on the prop shaft and a carefully shaped 5mm depron ring inside the front of acetate spinner: the GWS spinner fits inside the ring and is epoxied to it. The main spinner can be centred while the epoxy is setting, and once set, the whole assembly can be eased off the motor shaft (if you are lucky!). It was designed for a park flyer, so may not be strong enough for real electic power, but it's harmless if it flies off.

Mike
Old Jun 13, 2008, 09:37 AM
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Thanks very much Mike, I'll try that. And something similar for the observation bubble on the nose.

I'm guessing that acetate is the stuff large pop bottles are made of. And that thinner sheets are available from artists supplies. I've heard of something called acetone, which softens it and could be painted on the inside, maybe even cellullose dope can do that.

Am I right?

Nick
Old Jun 13, 2008, 04:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nickchud
I'm guessing that acetate is the stuff large pop bottles are made of. And that thinner sheets are available from artists supplies.
Am I right?

Nick
Nick,

You can get moulding acetate in sheets from modelling shops, and there are freelancers who will produce vac mouldings if you send them a master (sorry I don't have any names, but someone on RCG will know). Doing it this way is so cheap you can get 4 done and have spares.

I find pop-bottle moulding (actually, cider bottle, but thatsh a differnt shtory) if fine for simple shapes with a hole in them like WWI cowlings etc. Just make the master longer than necessary, because the shrink is very tight and the shrunk bottle can be difficult to remove! But for "solid" shapes I think press or vac moulding is better.

Mike
Old Jun 13, 2008, 05:55 PM
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Nick

The GWS props may be a little soft for the sort of RPM's likely with your motors, by that I mean they are likely to be operating outside the speed they were designed for and are likely to distort.
Personally I would stick with a more rigid prop (APC / MA)
Old Jun 14, 2008, 03:05 AM
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Hmmm.

1,000 Kv is quite a slow motor compared to other outrunners. I guess it'll be turning at about 10,000 revs with my 3S1P batteries. I've got some 9" 3 blade Varioprops on my Minicat but I can't steal those as the shaft size is different. They're not cheap so I don't fancy buying any more. I'll do some tests when I get there. I'd like to stick with 3 blade props if I can. On the other had, the APC blades are good and stiff and one advantage of 2 blade props is that spinners are much easier to get.

Thanks people.

cheers

Nick

PS actually they're 8" Varioprops
Last edited by nickchud; Jun 20, 2008 at 04:48 AM. Reason: PS
Old Jun 14, 2008, 05:33 AM
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Ahh, if only propellor manufacturers would cater to us scale folks!! I think I have seen this very discussion take place in every single scale build I have ever followed... it's always a compromise.

C'est la vie!

Luke
Old Jun 14, 2008, 08:31 AM
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Nick

1000Kv is about right for this machine on 3S but it will only be running around 7000rpm with the GWS prop on.
However since the props are designed for small brushed gearbox units (GWS 350 -400 motors), they are pretty weak.

APC slow fly props are miles stronger in construction than the GWS but are only designed to run at 7000 rpm at the diameter you are looking at (190000/3/diameter of prop).
APC E props use the same equasion without the /3 but their 3 bladers do not seem to be very good.

If you want a 3 blade I would suggest the Master Airscrew 3 blade units. At 10" they will give a similar performance to 11" 2 blade APC E's of the same pitch.

I have them on my Mossie and they work well, true they are not as efficient as the APC's but far stronger than the GWS ones and will not distort, and of course far cheaper than the Varios.
Old Jun 16, 2008, 07:09 AM
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Many thanks


Many thanks Mike and PT. I'm on the case.

Already drinking my way through a case of cider

And I've ordered 9x3 7 blade props, or was it 3x7 9 blade props from Master-Screw?

cheers, hic

Nick

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