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Jun 05, 2008, 01:08 PM
awrightbrother's Avatar
Thread OP
Build Log

B25 Bomber from Wowplanes

Hello pilots,

Wowplanes has decided to kit this beautiful 58" span B-25 Bomber, originally designed by Keith Sparks.

1. Kit includes all CNC pre-cut foam parts . No hot wire cutting required by you.
2. Minimal sanding or shaping.
3. Kit includes all the plastic parts as shown in this thread.
4. It has a removable wing.
5. Assembly time 10 hours or less.
6. Full color illustrated, on-line construction manual provided.
7. Completely designed and manufactured in the USA.
8. Can be ordered from our website now
9. Same day shipping.
10. Introductory price - only $99

I plan to start a build log here very soon and hope you will like it.

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Jun 05, 2008, 10:29 PM
awrightbrother's Avatar
Thread OP
Now the build thread. I will start wth the fuselage first.

It comes in 4 pieces. The front section, the tail cone, the wing seat cover, and the inner core.

I inserted 1/16" balsa at the leading edge of the stabilizer cutout, glued it in place, and trimmed and sanded flush.
Then I glued glued a 1/8" x 1" x 2 1/2" plywood in the channel provided on the underside the fuselage. This is where the wing retaining screw will fit. Two 1/8"x1"x1" pieces of plywood were glued where the gear would go.

Next I glued the tail cone to the fuselage front section.

From the inner core of the fuselage front section, I cut the cockpit floor and glued it in place.

Using the supplied plastic parts for the nose section as templates, I traced the outline on the foam. With a sharp utility knife, I cut the excess foam. Shaved thin slices of the foam until the desired shape was achieved. Using a sawing action and holding the knife edge almost flat against the foam, I was able to shave tissue thin slices off. This leaves minimal sanding to be done. Finished with 300 grit sandpaper.

And the fuselage is done for now.

Jun 06, 2008, 12:57 AM
Lipo abuser ... smoke on!
gp125racer's Avatar
Subscribing, Ive been wanting to build their lear for quite some time now, just always of scared of the sheeting on the wings.

Latest blog entry: D100
Jun 06, 2008, 01:05 AM
Crash proof pilot
FlyDave's Avatar

Question : which glue you use to join balsa with foam ? Epoxy or CA ?

* Sorry !! i've just read the "How To" section and answered my question. I'm stupid
Last edited by FlyDave; Jun 06, 2008 at 01:30 AM.
Jun 06, 2008, 01:16 AM
go fly! no crashes!
Synwpn's Avatar
Originally Posted by gp125racer
Subscribing, Ive been wanting to build their lear for quite some time now, just always of scared of the sheeting on the wings.

Don, sheeting isn't too bad to do at all. Once you've done one, you'll be amazed at how fast it goes. In the wings I've done so far, I've sheeted both sides in one session and it goes fast. Takes more time to cut the taped up sheets to shape!

Which reminds me to ask Fahim, do the wing come in the beds? I think I'm going to sheet the wings. and possible the horizontal stabilizer.

Jun 06, 2008, 09:16 AM
awrightbrother's Avatar
Thread OP
Mediq has built our Lear, crashed it, repaired it, loved it so much that he bought a second one. His post is at

The wings, Stab and fins all come in their beds.

I do sheeting in a slightly different way than "traditional" and it is easier and goes really fast. If you have done formica laminate on countertops, you will see that it is very similar.

1. I use 1/32" balsa which is thin and flexible enough to bend around curves easily with a little water spray. It can even be trimmed with a pair of scissors like poster board.

2. I use Monsanto M77 Spray adhesive. You can buy this in spray cans at any Home Depot or ACE. Hold the can at least 12" away from the foam and make 3 or 4 swipes. Do not let it puddle otherwise it will attack the foam. The glue itself is not harmful for the foam, it is the propellent. By staying 12" back, the propellent evaporates before it gets to the foam.

3. Wait 60 seconds and position the balsa where you want it to go. If you have unsteady hands, insert a sheet of wax paper between the balsa and the foam, then position. Holding the balsa in place, simply slide out the wax paper, and the balsa will grab immediately. Press it down with your palm.

This way there is no pre-cutting or pre-shaping the balsa, no epoxy mixing, no vacuum bagging, no weighing down, and best of all, no waiting for anything to dry. Try this on a scrap piece of foam and you will see how easy it is.

5. M77 is a strong adhesive, but over time (6 months to 1 year) the balsa will try to lift up at the edges. To fix that, once the balsa is on and trimmed, run a bead of carpenter's glue (from HD or ACE) along the edge of each sheet and that's it!

With this way I have sheeted a whole Lear in an afternoon. Here is a link to all our manuals, that shows this in pictures. One of these days, I will make a video to show how easy it is.

Here is a link to all our manuals
Jun 06, 2008, 02:49 PM
Flying electric since 1986
Mark Wolf's Avatar
I've already got my kit ordered! Can't wait, I've been eying Spark's design for quite a while now.
Jun 06, 2008, 07:47 PM
awrightbrother's Avatar
Thread OP
OK pilots, today I worked on the wing.

The wing comes in 11 parts. The ailerons and servo plugs are taped in place. I lined the aileron cutouts with 1/16" balsa. The liner on the servo side must extend all the way into the servo cutout.

Next I drew a 2" radius circle at each wing tip, then trimmed and rounded them.

I inserted an HS55 servo it into the servo cutout until flush with the bottom of the wing. Then turned the wing over and glued the servo plug into the cutout, and sliced off the protruding portion of the plug flush with the wing top surface.

Next, I joined the 5 wing sections end-to-end. There is no need to sand the dihedral angles, they are already built into the appropriate sections. Just glue each section to the next as a butt joint and the correct dihedral angles will come out automatically.

Then I trimmed and sanded the rear ends of the nacelles to look as shown in the pic. The front ends do not require any trimming or sanding.

I used the nacelles as templates to trace and cut the firewalls from 1/8" plywood, with a slot for the ESCs.

At this point you have to decide how you are going to mount the motors. If you plan to use the radial mount method for outrunners, mark and drill the four holes, install blind nuts from behind the plywood, and then glue the firewall to the nacelle face. If you plan to build a motor mount box, then the firewalls can be glued first. I never got that far because of two problems. I got into my car to go to the hobby shop to buy the motors and discovered that the power steering fluid had leaked out all over the driveway. My wife had gone SWOL (shopping w/o leave) with our other car. I came back into the house only to discover that the A/C system decided to quit while we have a record heat wave in FL right now.

I slid the nacelles onto the wings from the tip ends, and this is how the model looks. I sat staring at it in amazement while sweating like a pig.

I decided to quit for the day, while I was still ahead.
Jun 07, 2008, 09:28 AM
damn gravity again
supershuey's Avatar

very nice has any one built the a10?

Jun 09, 2008, 08:22 AM
awrightbrother's Avatar
Thread OP
Hello Dylan

Many people have built the A10 and are flying it. I don't think they read Foamie Kits forums, so you may not get any replies here. Try EDF Jet forums.

Jun 09, 2008, 08:36 AM
damn gravity again
supershuey's Avatar

thanx reading the threads now
Jun 09, 2008, 09:06 AM
awrightbrother's Avatar
Thread OP
Hello bomber pilots,

Well I got the car and the AC fixed, but needed some R&R after that ordeal, so I went flying all day Sunday. Now I am well rested and raring to go again.

Before I start I would like to point out that the forum format does not allow great detail due to the limitations of the amount of pictures one can upload. The good news is that I am using this opportunity also to build the construction manual on my website, which is much more illustrated and detailed. Some of you who may have question after reading this posting may want to visit the manual page at

So here we go with our build.

I made a compartment in the nacelle for the ESC and bored two holes from the back of the compartment. One sloped down and exiting on the underside of the nacelle to allow airflow over the ESC, and the other at an upward angle to the wing spar location to route the battery and throttle cables.

Then I made the main U/C and the mounting plates. The dimensions are detailed in the manual. I hollowed out a 1/4" deep trough for the mounts as detailed in the manual.

Next I worked on the spar. The way it is described in the manual makes it very easy to do. You draw the outline on the spar on one edge of a blank sheet of 1/8" plywood. Shove this into the spar slot on the wing and trace the outside edge, and cut along the traced line. Bingo, you have a spar that fits perfectly.

Next I dry assembled everything. First buried the cables in the spar slot. Then inserted the spars. Then set the U/C in place. Then slid the nacelles in from the wing tips. Now we have to square the nacelles with the wing and and make them parrallel to each other. This was easier than I thought.

There are registrations marks provided in the foam to facilitate this. Set it up as shown in the picture, make the dimensions X=X and Y=Y and there you have it. Mark the position of the nacelles on the wings.

Then I took eveything apart and using 30 minute expoxy, glued everything back in place and walla, we have a completed wing.

Next step is to install the wing and square it with the fuselage.

Coming soon , stay tuned.

Jun 09, 2008, 12:19 PM
Registered User
Heck YEAH!!!!! I'm in. Order just placed.

Jun 09, 2008, 01:45 PM
awrightbrother's Avatar
Thread OP
Originally Posted by jet_jer
Heck YEAH!!!!! I'm in. Order just placed.

Thanks Jer, order recieved. We have sold out our first production batch. I gotta get busy cutting more foam again.

Jun 09, 2008, 02:23 PM
awrightbrother's Avatar
Thread OP
OK we are ready to install and square the wing.

The wing is held on to the fuselage by a tongue at the rear of the wing cover, and a screw at the front from the bottom of the fuselage.

I cut a piece of plywood 1/8" x 2" x 1" and centered it in the channel provided in the wing bottom. Taped it in place, not glued yet.

Set the wing in the wing saddle of the fuselage. Made the dimensions X = X.

Drilled a hole at the center of the plywood that is already glued to the bottom of the fuselage all the way through to the plywood piece taped to the wing and installed a size 6-32 blind nut there.

Glued the plywood piece back on the wing and mounted the wing to the fuselage with a size 6-32 screw from the bottom.

That all there is to it, folks. Now we turn our attention to the tail.

Stay tuned

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