I'm getting a woodie- woodie builds :) - Page 621 - RC Groups
View Poll Results: Please help name this glider
Hellferstout 5 26.32%
Numeric 9 47.37%
Knaughty 5 26.32%
Voters: 19. You may not vote on this poll

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Jan 28, 2012, 09:40 AM
Suspended Account
But this one flies like a peach Owl, insides at least, better 'foil than the fox it'd axial roll nicely and be an ele-ali thing. I did the 2' mpx fox as an RE a few years back and I reckon this thing would better the fox easily despite a pudgier fuse cross-section. just guessing though.

Mate, it's free for me, so...
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Jan 28, 2012, 09:45 AM
Suspended Account
I should get another one and send it to Don W, just so's he has something to fly while the O3 is in its second incarnation. Ok Don?? ?
Jan 28, 2012, 09:59 AM
Torn 'twixt buildin' and flyin
TheNightowl's Avatar
Originally Posted by atmosteve
But this one flies like a peach Owl, insides at least, better 'foil than the fox it'd axial roll nicely and be an ele-ali thing. I did the 2' mpx fox as an RE a few years back and I reckon this thing would better the fox easily despite a pudgier fuse cross-section. just guessing though.

Mate, it's free for me, so...
Hey, if it flies, DOOO EEEET!
Jan 28, 2012, 10:19 AM
AMA 3959
alstrahm's Avatar
hey, Steve, I had one of those, I took the electronics out of one of those HH indoor P-51's and converted it to R/C, you have to remove the steel ball in the nose, there is a thread in the slope forums to make it a twisty wing plane as well, I think under FOX. blast to fly, lost it on the slopes one day

Jan 28, 2012, 10:23 AM
The King Moonracer of balsa.
Windependence's Avatar
Originally Posted by stoked6.0
Well now if that's not pretty I don't know what is!
Yah, Geode would have fit right in here as he was all about building with wood. His Manta design was an all wood DLG, except for the boom, he even designed a balsa pod for it. The Bumble Bee came in two sizes 34" and 60" and are remarkably strong. Somewhere there is a picture of him holding the bigger Bumblebee out horizontally by the wingtip. He just disappeared from RCG one day never to be heard from again.

Jan 28, 2012, 01:26 PM
Egads! It's a GIRL!
Lil Stinkpot's Avatar
That's really sad, because I would have had an advantage, and could have chatted at the slope, field, over lunch.... Ah, well. Wherever he's at, hope he's well.

I have a sailing friend that was once active on RCG, then also kinda quit. His moniker is wottapilot. I found him here, but he's long since quit answering PMs. Nahh, if I want to get a hold of Harry, I'd just ring him up, or meet him at the ramp.

Anyways, I'm pretty sure, now, that It's a Manta that's going on one of the booms. Bug on the other, but the other boom needs a bot of work to fix it.

ETA: Thanks, Don, and Night Owl!
Last edited by Lil Stinkpot; Jan 28, 2012 at 01:27 PM. Reason: ETA
Jan 28, 2012, 02:44 PM
Registered User
Don Stackhouse's Avatar
Katie, those articles will help with the overall numbers, but will not answer all of your questions for you. In particular, they will not directly answer questions about what tail area to use, or what tail boom length, they will just tell you how much you can reduce one if you increase the other.

You have to use other criteria to find the complete answer:

On a 2-channel glider, you might want a tail moment based on what gives you enough "top rudder" effect (due to cuurvature of the airflow) to get enough extra angle of attack on the inside wing tip to counteract overbanking tendency in a typical thermal turn. Joe and I have actually gone so far as building a test model with an adjustable-length tail boom to determine this with flight tests.

On a pylon racer, where there is a "scale appearance" requirement, such as the Quarter-40 class, you might be more concerned with minimizing drag. In a case like that, I've worked out an equation for whetted area of the tail cone, plugged that into my spread sheet along with specifying a set of tail volume coefficients, then played with the tail moment arm length to find the combination of tail moment and corresponding tail area that resulted in the lowest possible total whetted area for the tail surfaces plus the tail cone.

You can do something similar to find the proportions for the lowest possible tail assembly weight.

If you set both the static and dynamic tail volume coefficients as specified input parameters, you will find that there is only one combination of tail area and tail moment arm that can simultaneously satisfy specific values of both of those. This can be a very good approach if you already have an example of a plane whose behavior you want to emulate with your new design. Calculate the static and dynamic coefficients for the plane you like, then find the tail moment and areas that give the same results for your new model.

Or, you can just use TLAR and hope you get "lucky". Not a consistent, reliable way to design airplanes.
Jan 28, 2012, 02:57 PM
3 Sons - Legos and Lift
2motheus's Avatar

Discovery for reducing CA irritation


I've stumbled upon something that might be useful to others. If this is old news let me know.

CA glue used to be no problem for me, but in the last few years I have had to be really careful to not breathe the fumes. It doesn't take much to give me a sore throat and even a tendency for bloody noses. I can't use it much at all in the basement, especially during the winter when ventilation is minimal.

What's new to me is an idea for keeping the fumes out of my sinuses and throat. I thought about how moisture in the wood activates the chemical reaction to make it cure, so it follows that moist membranes are affected when we breathe in the CA.
The solution for me has been to use a plain old dust mask, but dampened. The fumes have to pass through the wet filter before they get to me, and the irritation level is reduced by 90%. I still feel a little burn in my eyes, but the only lasting effect is a little goop in the corners of my eyes.

I hope this can help others.

Jan 28, 2012, 03:50 PM
life long racing nut & modeler
granada don's Avatar
Hi Tim

If you are getting bloody nose's from the ca , you are way overdue to stop using it.

When you body goes over the edge to being a MCS guy you will be in big trouble then, i know as it happened to me and ruined my life.

Through that CA away and use white glue, just a word of warning !!!

G Don
Jan 28, 2012, 04:10 PM
AMA 5285 LSF 8104
Aquila Guy's Avatar

excel spread sheets for sailplane design

Here are Excel spread sheets which can be used to figure out how big to make things:


Have fun plugging numbers in!

Jan 28, 2012, 04:30 PM
AMA 3959
alstrahm's Avatar
Tim, right om dude! I am 60 and started building again Those CA fumes just kill me! I decided to just use Titebond and wait for it to dry! And if I have to use CA, the garage will be open, and a fan running!

Jan 28, 2012, 05:43 PM
Registered User
boingk's Avatar
Wow guys, you must be using a hell of a lot of CA or using it in a really confined area. You gotta have ventilation with that stuff, even a small desk fan blowing over the work area would be enough.

Personally I love CA and its stood up well in my 32" Kombat Kid, which has seen a number of crashes and come out with no real airframe damage bar the motor/battery housing.

Cheers - boingk
Jan 28, 2012, 06:23 PM
Egads! It's a GIRL!
Lil Stinkpot's Avatar
This works very well for me. CA, epoxy, dope, cat box, none of it gets through.

What I think I'll do for the big Bug is just go back to the calculator, and start multiplying the Bug fuse length by bigger and bigger percentages until I get a number that matches my current boom length.
Jan 28, 2012, 06:54 PM
ein flugel schplinterizer
seanpcola's Avatar
I won't get on my soapbox about CA vs wood glue but I use wood glue or WBPU 99% of the time now. As for the wait time, most of the newer wood glues out there set pretty fast, especially if you're building larger parts with multiple pieces. Like all glue, barely enough is plenty and more than enough will severely slow down the set time. I just don't use CA anymore except for temporary tacking or special projects.
Jan 28, 2012, 08:10 PM
Registered User
R2R's Avatar
Originally Posted by Lil Stinkpot
This works very well for me. CA, epoxy, dope, cat box, none of it gets through.

I use the 3M respirator too, for all glues with fumes, as well as spray paint. It even comes with a removable dust pre-filter, so it can double-duty as a dust mask to prevent balsa sensitivity in the long term. These also seal way better than the paper dust masks.

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