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Feb 25, 2011, 12:51 AM
Torn 'twixt buildin' and flyin
TheNightowl's Avatar
Originally Posted by lincoln
Never build barefoot in a room with a wood floor, and no one else in the house, unless you have debonder in your pocket. And if you do, don't drop the bottle. And if you drop the bottle, determine where it is before you start shifting around trying to pick it up. Especially shifting your feet.
Given the propensity for round-handled tools (like X-acto handles) to roll off of workbenches, I NEVER build barefoot.

(Of course, I am the original "tenderfoot." It hurts my feet to walk on a tile floor that has a little bit of sand or grit on it. About the only places I am EVER barefoot is the shower and the bed.)

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Feb 25, 2011, 03:30 AM
Suspended Account
Originally Posted by lincoln
Never build barefoot in a room with a wood floor, and no one else in the house, unless you have debonder in your pocket. And if you do, don't drop the bottle. And if you drop the bottle, determine where it is before you start shifting around trying to pick it up. Especially shifting your feet.
My god, this is so profoundly true, I would imagine. I hope Lincoln isn't giving us the benefit of an actual experience as he described, it is almost unthinkable.

Have done the quick CA barefoot dance on a workshop floor before, but it was a porous brick surface, and I consider myself very lucky for it for I too was alone and without a bottle of debonder. Quick CA is the devil of a stuff isn't it, there is just nothing that is immune to its bonds, most especially your bodily features like hair.
Feb 25, 2011, 06:57 AM
Registered User
Don Stackhouse's Avatar
This is all starting to sound like something from Tommy Smith in the "Dear Jake" column of "Model Builder" magazine.
Feb 25, 2011, 09:17 AM
They call me Maj. Sink!
stoked6.0's Avatar
While we're talking about glues, I have a wood glue question. I just ordered my first woody(a Marauder) and am starting to get things together. I see that titebond seems to be the preferred wood glue of choice and I know from experience that it's good stuff. What about Gorilla glues wood glue, not the PU glue, but their wood glue. It doesn't expand and foam like the pu and seems to work pretty good. I have a partial bottle that I have been using for other jobs(I'm a carpenter) and was just curious. I've used titebond for other wood projects in the past and like it as well, I'm just curious why it seems to be titebond over everything else with most everyone here. Thanks.

Feb 25, 2011, 10:05 AM
Registered User
Don Stackhouse's Avatar
"Titebond" is the most well-known of the PVA glues.

Of course the original "white" glue was Elmers, which was originally made from milk-based polymers for the resin component, in a water solution. That's why the "universal glue symbol" I came up with for "white glue" in the Chrysalis 2-meter instructions is a glue bottle with a cow (complete with a mouthful of daisies) on the label.

PVA is a synthetic that has faster drying time and more strength, but is generally similar in overall working characteristics to the original "white" glues, so it gets lumped into the same category. Within the PVA glues there are subtle differences between brands and versions, but their similarities tend to outweigh those differences.
Feb 25, 2011, 12:57 PM
Registered User
ozmo01's Avatar

(Hot) Stuff Happens

I have a favorite pair of building jeans complete with various glue and paint spots. One glue spot, mid front right thigh, has a coresponding bald patch same leg etc.
Another club member reports he has stopped late night building in his PJs.
Small patch of said PJs remains CA'd to the edge of his build table
Feb 25, 2011, 01:55 PM
It's gonna be YUGE!!!
LVsoaring's Avatar
As long as we're still on the glue topic, while doing my Drifter II build, I went back to Titebond, really more for nostalgia than anything else. Over the last 20 years or so, I've pretty much used medium CA for everything (except where epoxy is called for, of course). One thing I noticed, the Titebond doesn't seem to make nearly the mess it did back when I was a lad. I can only attribute this to more patience (which, I suppose comes with age), and improved building skills. Having said all that, the Titebond seems to work very well, but personally, for most building, I think I'll stick to CA. It's just so much faster, and I have not had any glue-joint problems with anything I've built with it. My 2 pesos for the day....
Feb 25, 2011, 01:55 PM
Hot Dawg Glider Pilot
schrederman's Avatar
I was building a Magnum 12 back in the '70s and stuck myself to the almost-finished wing. It was summer, and Dee Dee had just left for a little shopping. I was barefoot... dropped the bottle which dropped a drop of ca on the floor, which I immediately stepped in... Two hours later, when she got home, she found me glued to the wing and the floor... No more buildng barefoot... ever...
Feb 25, 2011, 04:21 PM
founder of the SSP
Steve Boone's Avatar
If that would have been my wife there would be pictures posted of it. There's no way she would have let me loose without them.
Feb 25, 2011, 05:39 PM
Ochroma Pyramidale Tekton
Fly Wheel's Avatar
Originally Posted by seanpcola
For some reason (I'm guessing pure luck) I haven't really sliced myself open with a knife or other blade lately. I get myself with drilling operations instead. I'll get in a hurry and either hold the object and drill with a hand drill or occasionally don't take the time to clamp it down before using the drill press.

Worst one lately was when drilling a sheet metal piece. I was making a display panel for my winch. Standing right next to my drill press, within easy reach of dozens of clamps I chose to hold the part in my left hand and drill with my right. This is a 3/8" bit. Just as the bit comes through it snags, I lose control and the bit, following the flutes as it passes changes direction enters my left index finger, hits the bone and travels about 3/4" parallel to it. I'm afraid to make any quick moves while I contemplate what to do. I can't get the bit out of the drill in my present situation and if I move the drill at all the damage will just get worse. Just as I decide the only way to remove it is to reverse it out slowly my wife walks up behind me and asks in her usually cheerful manner "Hi honey, what ya doin'?" she takes in the situation. Her face looks exactly like this , except she has nicer eyes and her skin isn't blue. I just nonchalantly back the bit out of my finger like I do it all the time. Then of course the blood begins to flow. She's reaching for her cell phone to call 911 and I'm trying to explain that it's no big deal. I'll just let it bleed to clean it and use the handyman's brand of band aid, you know duct tape. Since that day I clamp virtually anything I'm drilling, I even think about it when drilling in 1/32" balsa. Of course every time I head out to the shop the little woman asks if I'll be drilling anything with this look
Please, please, please, PLEASE don't anyone post any links to this thread in the "How do we bring model building back?" thread!!!!
Feb 25, 2011, 09:27 PM
ein flugel schplinterizer
seanpcola's Avatar
Originally Posted by Fly Wheel
Please, please, please, PLEASE don't anyone post any links to this thread in the "How do we bring model building back?" thread!!!!
I cherish ever scar and wound won during my building sessions.

Seriously, we guys are illustrating our "dumb human tricks" as much for education as entertainment. I'd like to think that any newbies reading this will really think about them and avoid the same mistakes.
Feb 25, 2011, 10:36 PM
Thermal Naked!
Hossfly72's Avatar
During my plastic modeling phase I was known for sitting cross legged on the floor and sanding my airliners smooth while watching TV. One day I noticed while sanding that a seam had come loose. Not a problem. A drop of CA, a spritz of accelerator and we'll be good to go. Turn the fuse up to look at my work and apparently the CA hadn't cured completely and a tiny little bit dripped out on my legs. Uh oh!! It's been accelerated but hadn't kicked yet! There it goes!! Legs now glued together and I've got a blister forming and it's still hot!!! With all the screaming I was doing, My room mate thought I'd dropped the exacto in my lap and cut off something vital. I started building at the table after that.
Feb 26, 2011, 08:47 AM
dwells's Avatar
[QUOTE=CloudSniffer;17467777]Since I am having so much fun and making lots of sawdust here are pics of the Skybird I finished 2 weeks ago. The yellow is MonoKote and the Violet is UltraCote. This one just has CF tow attached to the outside top and bottom of the spruce spars. This is a very strong 2 spar 2 wing rod system stock. This plane and the LB are backup planes for two like them I built last winter. They fly so good I needed more. Can't have too many woodies.

Hey CS,

Was looking back and just now saw your SkyBird! She's absolutely beautiful, I know you're proud. Is the fuse stock width? It looks very sleek and slender.

Feb 26, 2011, 01:13 PM
Sonoran Laser Art
Thanks for compliment dwells. The Skybird fuse is stock. I do narrow the Little Bird fuses though and use a one piece wing. Can't wait to try this one out. Only about 3 weeks to first club contest of the year providing it quits snowing here. The cold is old
Feb 26, 2011, 02:03 PM

Two Questions: Tow? And MoM?

With regards to carbon fiber tow on a spar...

When people say "Carbon Fiber Tow" do they mean the 12 or 24k loose fibers that carbon cloth is woven from? (Why do I feel I may have asked this question before... getting old... deja vu... )

If so, how are you going to use that on a spar if not wrapping? It seems to me that simply wetting it out with epoxy would yield a rippled mess (though I have no empirical evidence that is so). I thought you have to bake it into a hardened form (like unidirectional carbon strips) to be of any strength... no?

Second: What, do tell, is a Man on Man (MoM) contest? Can someone point me to sample rules? Thanks.

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