Top Flite P47 - SCALE ELECTRIC BUILD - Page 8 - RC Groups
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Jan 19, 2009, 10:13 AM
Ustabee supported Unabomber
countrygentleman's Avatar
I guess I missed it, what are the rings for? Reinforcement?
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Jan 19, 2009, 12:50 PM
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TRP's Avatar
I think he's trying to replicate the scale details in the wheel well.
Jan 19, 2009, 07:22 PM
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Gree's Avatar
Trying yes.

I didn't know what else to call them, and settled on 'reinforcement rings' because that is why they would have been stamped into the sheet metal of the well - that and to stop vibration I guess.
Jan 19, 2009, 11:54 PM
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Gree's Avatar
The finished well wall...
Jan 20, 2009, 12:40 AM
The Revegetator
Chris F's Avatar
Looks good to me Gree. It will be hard to see in there anyway
Jan 20, 2009, 01:09 AM
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Gree's Avatar
Yeah that is what I'll be counting on! hehe
Jan 21, 2009, 03:10 AM
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Gree's Avatar

More Wheel Wells and Canopy Rail

Rear Canopy Rail
Just for something a little different, and to break the monotony of the wing, I thought I would take a nibble at the sliding mechanism for the canopy. I will be making it openable, so I needed to make the rear rail that it slides on.

For this I used styrene pieces. First time I have ever used styrene and I have to say I love it! Very easy to work with and glues super strong and quickly.

I used some square brass tubing to make the sliding rail, and crudely but effectively rigged up my dremel tool in a dodgy jig to cut a slot all the way along the tube. A piece of styrene block will be placed in the tube and will slide back and forward, joined to the canopy. Will get to that later.

The Wheel Well Saga Continues
Made the inserts for the top of the inner wheel wells, by laminating strips of styrene 'aluminium siding'sheet to 0.4mm sheet. I am pretty happy with the result. This will be painted and laminated inside the well when the top of the wing is sheeted.

That's about it for now...
Jan 21, 2009, 08:35 PM
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Gree's Avatar

I was planning on sheeting the top of the wing first so I can add the wheel well tops as mentioned above, BUT reading through the instructions it seems a lot is dependent upon sheeting the bottom first (such as marking gear location, servo hatches, hinges, bolt holes etc in the wing skin).

Has anyone sheeted the top of a TF P47 wing first? If so how did you deal with these issues? If anyone can help or offer advice at this stage it would really help out. Thanks.
Jan 23, 2009, 08:46 PM
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Gree's Avatar

Tailwheel Gear Doors

Man I am all over the place on this build lately, starting one thing then pausing to do something else! Oh well a bit messy but it means there is a little progress overall.

Glassing Tail Wheel Gear Doors
Well I have never fibreglassed before, and I have to say doing your research really pays off. I could not be happier with the result!

Following advise on many forums about making gear doors, I laid some Glad Wrap over the tail wheel area and stretched it until it was completely smooth, taping it down. I then used 6oz cloth and painted unthinned Great Planes expoy resin straight on.

Using the playing card trick, I took 3 cards together and squeegeed off all excess resin before laying up another piece. All in all I used 5 6oz layers and 1 0.75 oz layer to finish. I will be using bondo spot putty to fill the weave.

It turned out very smooth, very stiff and a perfect perfect fit to the bottom of the fuse! Hooray for knowledge shared on forums like these!

Freeing the Tail Wheel
After sheeting over the tail wheel a while ago, I used 3 view drawings and measured up the size and position of the gear doors, made a paper template and traced the shape onto the fuse.

Very carefully I used a scalpel to cut the shape free (remember I precut the formers etc before sheeting so this would be very easy, and it was, all came away easily). Then placing the glass shape over the hole, I traced the pattern onto the glass with pencil.

Now all I have to do is trim it up, fill the weave, cut the doors into 2 pieces, and hook it all up. Exciting times.

If you want to see a video of my tailwheel steering for the first time, then here you go (warning extreme excitement!):
TF P47 - Tailwheel Steering (0 min 36 sec)

I think I worked out my wing sheeting problem too. I will be sheeting the bottom of the wing first, then laying in the top of the wheel wells as I sheet the top. I think this will work well.
Last edited by Gree; Sep 25, 2009 at 04:39 PM. Reason: added embedded youtube video
Jan 25, 2009, 01:08 AM
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Gree's Avatar
Went to hardware stores looking for Bondo spot putty today but no one has heard of it. Can anyone describe to me exactly what it is? Is it an auto repair putty, is it a plastic or epoxy base? I may have to find an Australian alternative...

The reason I was looking for Bondo specifically was because I saw it was used well in another forum for filling glass weave...

It isn't auto body repair putty is it? What we Australians would call 'bog'?

Any help appreciated...
Jan 25, 2009, 08:30 AM
Registered User
Yes, it is the auto body repair putty. AKA: spot putty, glazing putty, glazing spot putty.

The one I get locally comes from NAPA. Specifically it is manufactured by Martin Senour paints, titled "Lacquer Glazing Putty". Part# 6394 Red Oxide.
Jan 25, 2009, 08:41 AM
Registered User
Here is a detailed explaination on video @ 3:35:
Fiberglassing BalsaParts Pt3 (6 min 35 sec)
Jan 25, 2009, 05:36 PM
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Gree's Avatar
Thanks very much Abberville. Now I know exactly what it is I'll take a trip to an auto parts store and pick something similar up. Thanks very much for your timely assistance, appreciated.
Jan 28, 2009, 12:12 PM
Build'em and Crash'em
Ken Lapointe's Avatar
Your work looks great.

For small applications like this I would suggest something called bondo spot putty. Its a 1 part auto body putty.

If you havent dont it allready coat the final part with finishing epoxy, let dry, lightly sand, spread spot putty filler on it, lightly sand, spray with primer to check.

Bondo body filler is a 2 part putty that is used for larger areas and fills. Dries very fast, dont have to worry so much about the thickness as its not an air dry cure.
Jan 28, 2009, 04:39 PM
Registered User
Gree's Avatar
Thanks Ken, but as described in a post above, I can't find Bondo in Australia so far so was looking for a description of what it was so I can buy an alternate brand. But thanks for the advice on 1 part spot putty vs 2 part fillers. I'll definitely take that into consideration when I go shopping for the stuff this weekend.

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