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Dec 06, 2008, 12:21 PM
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JerryTodd's Avatar
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The yellow strip hold the cartridges. The black bits of the gun up front extend in a manner similar to a pump shotgun to cock the gun and advance the yellow strip. You put a nail with a plastic sabot on it into the muzzle push the gun against the object you're nailing to release the safety, and squeeze the trigger. Its for nailing into stuff like concrete. It's often referred to as a "Hilte Gun," Hilte being a common brand for these things.

The yellow color of the strip denoted the power level of the cartridges. Different levels have different color strips. They sell them at the Home Despot and other such places.

I'm thinking of a scratch made mechanism that would use the strip. It would lower the strip, advance it, raise it to seat the next round in the breech using the plastic strip itself as a seal, then fire the gun. It would sense the end of the strip and not advance past the last cartridge. If it fires, then advances, there's a live round in the breech, so advancing, then firing leaves a spent round, or no round, in the breech for safety.

One servo could activate the clockwork to fire, another could rotate the gun - or the gun could be fixed.

That's the idea, but that's as far as it's gotten. The difficult part, I think is resetting the firing pin against a spring strong enough to set off a rim-fire cartridge, but a long lever arm should alleviate that.

I would think several guns could be setup on a manifold so the single gun cartridge could fire a broadside.
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Dec 25, 2008, 11:40 PM
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JerryTodd's Avatar
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Pivot Guns


My visit to the ship netted a glimpse of the plans for the 10" shell guns mounted on the steamer USS Mississippi. These are the same guns Constellation had mounted as bow and stern pivots from 1855 to 1861 when they were replaced with Parrot Rifles.

I was able to get a copy of from the National Archives - which was an adventure in itself that netted me a free copy of the plans.

Mississippi's pivot chassis were anchored at the nose, that is they pivoted at the front end and the chassis has no provision for pivoting on the center nor does it have casters on the front end, and the folks at Constellation tell me she had center pivoting guns with circular iron tracks on the deck.

So, I'm gonna model the chassis like that in the photo of the 11in Dahlgren model. The plan of the Mississippi chassis is attached for comparison.

The next picture shows the 1/36th scale pivot gun carriages partially made.
Last edited by JerryTodd; Dec 26, 2008 at 12:32 AM.
Dec 29, 2008, 08:50 AM
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pivot guns, cont.


More parts cut out, carved, sanded, etc.

Note the big plate with the notches. The "training trucks" or casters as I've called them fit in the notches. I duplicated the after one to place one at the front so the chassis will center pivot with trucks at both ends. The rectangular chunk of bass at the bottom of the image will be the center pivot plate which has to be notched into the side rails yet.

The gun barrel is a half-hearted attempt at turning wood on a drill press. I don't have a lathe, so I have to jury rig something. A decent gun tube will be made, molded, and a pair of resin tubes cast.
Last edited by JerryTodd; Dec 29, 2008 at 09:08 AM.
Dec 29, 2008, 09:08 AM
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DanL's Avatar

Delrin barrel master?


Jerry,
Really great looking guns - very nice modelling.
Maybe you could make the barrel master on your drill press if you use delrin. It machines so much more easily, evenly and cleanly than wood. I bet you could get a really good master barrel that would make a great mold. Or even turn two barrels from delrin...
Dec 29, 2008, 10:25 AM
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That sounds like a good idea. Can you glue and paint this stuff?

I found this place: http://www.onlinemetals.com selling it and can get 12" of black .75" rod and 12" of .25" rod (for trunnions) for $2.98 - then there's $9.68 shipping!

UPDATE: I ordered a foot of 3/4" and 1/4" black rod from www.usplastic.com They seemed a bit fairer with their shipping and would do small quantities and were actually a few cents cheaper.

So, I'll give the Delrin guns a shot, uh, no pun intended.
Last edited by JerryTodd; Dec 30, 2008 at 09:15 AM.
Dec 30, 2008, 10:16 AM
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DanL's Avatar

Delrin master/plug


Jerry,
I don't think the delrin will hold paint or adhesive very well, but it should make a good master or "plug" for making a mold - smooth, stable and EZ release.
It machines to a very smooth surface. Once sanded, it can be returned to a very fine finish with sanding and polishing.


Here's tech info on painting and gluing from DuPont (very good delrin info):
http://www.kmsbearings.com/pdf/Delri...gn%20Guide.pdf

Seems painting and gluing is possible....
Dec 30, 2008, 11:09 AM
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There's a bump on the gun where the touch-hole is. The trunnion hole will be drilled through and one piece of the 1/4" rod used-probably run a pin through to hold that in place. Epoxy should hold the touch-hole bump well enough to make a rubber mold and/or it can be pinned too.

Thanks
Dec 30, 2008, 07:15 PM
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SloopProvidence's Avatar

Delrin Guns


Quote:
Originally Posted by DanL
Jerry,
Really great looking guns - very nice modelling.
Maybe you could make the barrel master on your drill press if you use delrin. It machines so much more easily, evenly and cleanly than wood. I bet you could get a really good master barrel that would make a great mold. Or even turn two barrels from delrin...
I have a friend who burns out plastic details in a plaster lost-plastic molding system... He has very strongly warned me that he WILL NOT DO DELRIN because of the HIGHLY TOXIC fumes created when the plastic is highly heated. If you are going to cast, inject, melt, burn, or any other process that involves the chance of significantly heating DELRIN be VERY CAREFUL. The manufacturers that make products with delrin are setup to deal with the nasty byproducts.

Jason
Capt, 1/24th scale Sloop Providence
Jan 05, 2009, 01:40 AM
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A lot of card stock cutting this weekend, to make patterns for the head enclosure and quarter galleries. A bit more framing of the quarter galleries got done as well.

A lot of effort was spent trying to rip decent 1/8" strips on my band-saw, but the blade wandered too much and less than half of what I cut was useful.
Jan 06, 2009, 12:15 AM
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When I started this project, the the real ship was still sequestered away near Fort McHenry being rebuilt, and the plans didn't show how her bulwarks were designed, so I made the plug to the level of the cap rail.

Well, Constellation doesn't have bulwarks, per-se, but hammock rails. These are iron stanchions mounted on the cap rail, which sits on top of the waterways, and are planked outboard and wainscoted inboard. See the attached pics.

So, today I cut the plug down to top of the waterways and the hammock rails will be added to the fiberglass hull.

The rest of the basic framework is done on the quarter galleries. They'll get sheeted over then pilasters, widow framing, and moldings will be added.

I posted a sketch of how the completed gallery will look.
Last edited by JerryTodd; Jan 06, 2009 at 12:10 PM.
Jan 10, 2009, 12:46 AM
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Sheathed in the port quarter gallery today, and played with fitting the molding.
Jan 10, 2009, 09:54 AM
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DanL's Avatar

Really nice work


It's gonna be a beautiful hull.

I know that you know this, but posting it just to get the idea out there. I see some tight and complex bending of wood strip and sheet to finish out the gallery. Putting household cleaning ammonia in the hot water soak for the wood really helps soften it and allows tight bending. After treated wood is dry, I wet it liberally with superthin CA (small pieces) or with thinned epoxy to seal it up sincde it becomes a bit "pulpy" after the soak and bend.
Jan 12, 2009, 10:08 AM
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The quarter galleries are a little further along, but I forgot to take the camera out.

The Delrin rod came in the mail and I took a shot at turning it on the drill press which was an utter failure. I'm gonna see if a local shop can turn it for me.

I found a site on figure painting that I'd lost track of. I plan on loading up Constellation with figures and this fellow's method produces some nice results. http://www.brifayle.ca

If you have figures on your vessels, you really should check out this painting method. Attached are a group of 1/24th scale and 1/87th scale figures painted by this fellow - and they are very impressive.

PS: There's a German site referred to by the site above, but the link was broken. Here's a working link: http://miniatures.de/painting-miniatures.html
Last edited by JerryTodd; Jan 12, 2009 at 10:26 AM.
Jan 13, 2009, 11:14 AM
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DanL's Avatar

Dahlgren tube master


Jerry, see your PM's.
Couldn't post this pic there, so posting it here.
Jan 13, 2009, 02:39 PM
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JerryTodd's Avatar
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Boy, that's real pretty.
I just got an idea for a staircase where all the balusters and newel posts look like that.

Actually, a stand for the model with cannon legs would be cool.


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