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May 06, 2008, 01:26 PM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Thread OP
2. Separately operating crossover jibs look very cool, and they do really seem to assist sailing.

I understand the jibs overlap, and have to cross forestays, but are you saying operating them each separately, or the heads'ls as a group separately from the rest of the rig (which I plan).

3. If you are going to "show" the boat at a club event, or in a smaller pond with other boats, or want to cruise a path in front of spectators, putting in a powered drive works well. Can go inboar or hang drives on rudder for a very effective , removeable outboard drive.

I saw a pic of a rudder mounted drive that looked interesting. I was considering a mounting it in the removable ballast (which Homeland Security would no doubt mistake as a torpedo) - but yes, other than chasing the thing in my friends dinghy, or my sailboat - some alternate but discreet propulsion with be nice.

4. The SC&H external ballast approach is the greatest. Allows droppind 40lbs for handling the model out of water. Much less stressful on model and you. Lead keel ballast is a lot lower for better stability and provides better tracking.

I take it that is a "bar" type thing that attaches via tubes up to the deck and held with pins or nuts?

I used cast lead fins on the two 1/96th scale frigates. They added about 8" of depth to the bottom of the keel, increased lateral resistance a LOT, and stiffened the boats immensely. They were secured with wings nuts on the gundeck at the front and rear of the main hatch. I based it on something I saw in a British zine from the '70s where a fellow RCed the Heller Victory kit.

6. Sail detail adds a lot - spent this past winter re-doing sails with details as shown in the Petrejus book and I think it added a lot to the appearance.

I'm a Virgo - there WILL be detail. I already have some lovely linen that a perfect color, strong, and drapes so nice it'll look like 2" tall sailmakers made it.

9. Line...

Most of the shrouds and stays will be serviced pre-stretched stainless wire rope. If I can still get the flax/linen thread I used to get - I'll be building a rope-walk and turning out the running rigging. The ship's rigging is another "detail" so I'm staying away from braided line and all the wire will be serviced.

11. I'm a total Krylon convert. It's cheap at Walmart and by far the best I've used. Great coverage, no run, low smell very fast drying, tough as nails. For "black" surfaces, I spray blends of Camo Black and light overspray of Camo Brown for highlight. They have acolor taht is a perfect match for red ochre. Also, I overspray everything with Krylon clear matte - water proof and very easy to amke invisible touch-ups and repairs (new application blends right into the old finish)

What? No Imron?

12. Prototype nautical knots work great for attaching lines. Square knots with a "touch" of CA are a pain if you need to re-rig. I never seal knots with CA now. If necessary, I put a little drop of liquid fabric hem glue on. It dries clear, is waterproof, but remains pliable and can be undone. Doesn't damage finish or "haze" like CA does.

I've never used CA on knots. Seizing, splices, lashings, and the usual run of knots have always done the job for me.

I think casting will be my be my biggest challenge. Except for some basic lead pouring, I've never cast anything. The ship doesn't have much in the way of bulwarks but rather has planked hammock irons. The folks that tried to make her into a frigate removed them, but rather than toss them away, they fortunately tossed them in the bilges. When she was restored they found all but one of them to put back - I have to make a master and intend to sand-cast about 50 of these things.
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May 07, 2008, 02:04 AM
Registered User
DanL's Avatar

Virgo too.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JerryTodd
2. Separately operating crossover jibs look very cool, and they do really seem to assist sailing.

I understand the jibs overlap, and have to cross forestays, but are you saying operating them each separately, or the heads'ls as a group separately from the rest of the rig (which I plan). The latter, as you plan.

3. If you are going to "show" the boat at a club event, or in a smaller pond with other boats, or want to cruise a path in front of spectators, putting in a powered drive works well. Can go inboar or hang drives on rudder for a very effective , removeable outboard drive.

I saw a pic of a rudder mounted drive that looked interesting. I was considering a mounting it in the removable ballast (which Homeland Security would no doubt mistake as a torpedo) - but yes, other than chasing the thing in my friends dinghy, or my sailboat - some alternate but discreet propulsion with be nice. I made the rudder mount so it could be easy on/off and so that the props give directional propulsion with the rudder movement. The rudder is not real effective with the length and keel design, so under power, the directional propulsion helps.
4. The SC&H external ballast approach is the greatest. Allows droppind 40lbs for handling the model out of water. Much less stressful on model and you. Lead keel ballast is a lot lower for better stability and provides better tracking.

I take it that is a "bar" type thing that attaches via tubes up to the deck and held with pins or nuts?

I used cast lead fins on the two 1/96th scale frigates. They added about 8" of depth to the bottom of the keel, increased lateral resistance a LOT, and stiffened the boats immensely. They were secured with wings nuts on the gundeck at the front and rear of the main hatch. I based it on something I saw in a British zine from the '70s where a fellow RCed the Heller Victory kit.

6. Sail detail adds a lot - spent this past winter re-doing sails with details as shown in the Petrejus book and I think it added a lot to the appearance.

I'm a Virgo - there WILL be detail. I already have some lovely linen that a perfect color, strong, and drapes so nice it'll look like 2" tall sailmakers made it.

9. Line...

Most of the shrouds and stays will be serviced pre-stretched stainless wire rope. If I can still get the flax/linen thread I used to get - I'll be building a rope-walk and turning out the running rigging. The ship's rigging is another "detail" so I'm staying away from braided line and all the wire will be serviced. Wow, super detail. Stretch is a big deal. The braided nylon, with pre-stretching, works very wel for the "working" R/C rigging.
11. I'm a total Krylon convert. It's cheap at Walmart and by far the best I've used. Great coverage, no run, low smell very fast drying, tough as nails. For "black" surfaces, I spray blends of Camo Black and light overspray of Camo Brown for highlight. They have acolor taht is a perfect match for red ochre. Also, I overspray everything with Krylon clear matte - water proof and very easy to amke invisible touch-ups and repairs (new application blends right into the old finish)

What? No Imron? Oh, that hard to use, cracking prone, toxic fume, shiny non-prototype looking, expensive, slow drying stuff?
12. Prototype nautical knots work great for attaching lines. Square knots with a "touch" of CA are a pain if you need to re-rig. I never seal knots with CA now. If necessary, I put a little drop of liquid fabric hem glue on. It dries clear, is waterproof, but remains pliable and can be undone. Doesn't damage finish or "haze" like CA does.

I've never used CA on knots. Seizing, splices, lashings, and the usual run of knots have always done the job for me.

I think casting will be my be my biggest challenge. Except for some basic lead pouring, I've never cast anything. The ship doesn't have much in the way of bulwarks but rather has planked hammock irons. The folks that tried to make her into a frigate removed them, but rather than toss them away, they fortunately tossed them in the bilges. When she was restored they found all but one of them to put back - I have to make a master and intend to sand-cast about 50 of these things.
And I thought I was putting too much detail into a boat tha will be hauled around and thrown into a lake.
May 07, 2008, 09:48 AM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Thread OP
And I thought I was putting too much detail into a boat that will be hauled around and thrown into a lake.

Well, there's those times in between dips in the lake.

The picture of her spar deck will show - I have a surplus in the detail budget.
Jun 20, 2008, 11:02 AM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Thread OP
Another week till I close on the house and move in! I get my 16 footer back from the refugee camp, set up shop, and start working on Constellation along with some other projects!

Watching the Brig-of-War thread with all the pictures of Surprise, Siren, and the other square-riggers folks have posted there has me chomping at the bit.

I've been watching ebay for radios, almost had a Spektrum with 4 servos for under $200 but it was sniped in the last 5 seconds. BTW; is there a site with stats and info on RC frequency and other important stuff - I seem to be very behind the state of the art when I look at what's out there now - for instance, there weren't cell phone last time I owned a radio.

This week is all packing, setting up utilities and stuff, usual moving details. It's only a couple of miles down the road - same zip code, so I've been rooting through the Net researching the ship. Bought a couple of books, making sketches and notes on deck details, rigging details, etc and looking at the work posted here and what ideas would work best for "Stella" (conSTELLAtion).

Has anyone seen any good photos and/or plans for wooden pivot gun carriages?
Jun 20, 2008, 12:29 PM
Registered User
DanL's Avatar

gun carriages


Are "wooden pivot gun carriages" you refer to the type used with carronades?
If so, Petrejus' book has great drawings.
Here are some pics, etc I've found...(including two pics of a Syren model carronade - really fires)

and some links...
http://images.google.com/imgres?imgu...LJ:en%26sa%3DN

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Carronade

http://www.ussconstitution.navy.mil/VirtualTour.htm

http://www.the3dstudio.com/product_d..._product=44036
Last edited by DanL; Jun 20, 2008 at 12:35 PM.
Jun 20, 2008, 02:43 PM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Thread OP
No sir, different animal - more 1850's-1870's.
Jul 08, 2008, 01:32 PM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Thread OP

New home/shop!


I've moved into the new house and it has a nice big 30' x 12' shed that will be my shop.

Soon work on the Constellation will resume!
Jul 08, 2008, 11:32 PM
Taking care of the pond.
MILLERTIME's Avatar
Nice shop, what is that funny looking in the left corner last picture?

Don M.
Jul 09, 2008, 06:30 AM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Thread OP
The dark vertical thing right in the corner? I think it's some sort of device for sucking rugs. The previous owner left it; probably he didn't know what it was either.
Jul 09, 2008, 09:01 PM
Taking care of the pond.
MILLERTIME's Avatar
I think my Ex had one of those, I prefer a shovel and shop vac.
Jul 10, 2008, 04:31 PM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Thread OP
My next project will be a boat I sailed on in 1978 & 1979 - in the same 1/36 scale.
Then maybe the first Pride of Baltimore which I worked on in 1981 - that one I have plans for.
Last edited by JerryTodd; Aug 27, 2008 at 11:54 AM.
Aug 31, 2008, 04:18 PM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Thread OP
Much of this weekend was spent getting the shop cleared out. The old owner practiced with his band in there so it's carpeted and "sound-proofed" and there's some work to go before I can do any work in there.

I did get the scanner to work again, and scanned the photos of the plug being constructed and posted them to the site.
Last edited by JerryTodd; Jul 21, 2009 at 08:29 AM.
Aug 31, 2008, 09:56 PM
Dragon Slayer
ropanach's Avatar
Hi JerryTodd:
Just came across this thread,
Welcome, I've been working off and on this ship, more of then on, I found the joy of R/C, It's a static modle, I've got the 1929 blue prints from an school teacher, I hope it goe's well for you She's of to a good start.
Sep 04, 2008, 02:32 PM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Thread OP
You should check out this thread at Model Ship World.

On another note; I think I may have my figures figured out

I just nabbed two sets of 1:35 Soviet fellas off ebay. I don't think they'll mind becoming Civil War sailors and being cloned into a crew.

The sailors give me some jack shirts and hats and legs without boots. The officer should convert with a little effort. The tank crew should supply a variety of poses for hauling, pushing, and climbing.
Last edited by JerryTodd; Dec 18, 2008 at 01:04 PM. Reason: TMI
Oct 14, 2008, 10:36 AM
SCALE Sailor
JerryTodd's Avatar
Thread OP
Still working on the shop. After moving a lot of stuff got tossed in there - that all out now and all the padding and carpet the previous owner had put in to sound-proof it so the neighbors wouldn't complain about his "band" has been removed and discarded.

Columbus Day weekend saw work benches and tools set up. (see attached)

For the model, some wood was gathered. I got some nice spruce boards from an old cabinet for spars and some clear white pine for deck beams and decking. A friend gave me a box of about 20 pds of auto wheel weights to add to my collection that will be melted down for her removable external ballast.

I'm setting myself a deadline to get the plug complete and ready to make a mold by the end of November. It needs details added such as quarter galleries, moldings and rails, and some way to create the impression of a coppered bottom which at this point looks like applying the plates to the plug and Dremeling the nail heads in the mold afterwards.


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