Fuse Mould w/Integrated Stabilizers - Video How To - Page 19 - RC Groups
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Jan 10, 2013, 02:37 PM
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acesimmer's Avatar
Thanks for the info. I'm always looking to improve my methods. Will you be using ribs, spar etc or an hollow wing?
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Jan 11, 2013, 12:08 AM
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Slow & Low's Avatar
Jan 13, 2013, 12:21 AM
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Slow & Low's Avatar
These leading edges should be nice and light.
All they have to do is deflect air over the spar.


Jan 13, 2013, 12:39 AM
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acesimmer's Avatar
Thanks good info. Could you please post pics on the internals prior to joining the wing halves. It really helps to see how others build and swipe techniques off them. I like the way you are providing the cloth weights etc. Keep it up I'm really looking forward to your build.
Jan 13, 2013, 01:22 AM
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killercando's Avatar
I agree. It is exciting to see the parts finaly coming together. Looks great. Thats a whole lot of rivets. Lee
Jan 13, 2013, 11:49 AM
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May 21, 2013, 11:01 AM
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Slow & Low's Avatar
So strong they’re scary and so light it makes you look twice when you pick one up…
Al/GRP Laminated D-box Leading Edges



May 21, 2013, 02:30 PM
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acesimmer's Avatar
Glad to see you back on the build. Keep us updated.
May 22, 2013, 11:58 AM
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Slow & Low's Avatar
Less is more....



May 23, 2013, 09:55 AM
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May 24, 2013, 05:10 PM
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Slow & Low's Avatar
Crude initial hand layup 410 grams or 14.5 Ounces or 0.9 lb
Part looks great. Still stiffening up a bit.




Feb 18, 2014, 05:51 PM
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Slow & Low's Avatar
Year Six I think ??

Clear packing tape is not very good in compression but applied around the periphery like this it works very well in shear.
There are no internals here. By taping this up for a quick touchy-feely session, it should be quickly apparent that little internal structure is required at this scale. The inherent beam strength of the cast trailing edges coupled with the rigidity cast into the lower skin by including the wheel and flap bay details yields an empty shell that is almost strong enough without internals. Very promising, not to mention motivating and satisfying to stare at...

[a href="http://s1069.photobucket.com/user/Two_Bulldog/media/P82000012_zpsfc4ad5fa.jpg.html"][img src="http://i1069.photobucket.com/albums/u475/Two_Bulldog/P82000012_zpsfc4ad5fa.jpg" style="max-width:100%;"][/a]



Mar 05, 2014, 03:41 PM
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Slow & Low's Avatar
I couldn't find my old homemade hotwire cutter. (an old battery charger, a block of wood, two copper pipes, and a guitar string worked just fine for many moons...)
This is a small investment that will save many, many, hours of cutting balsa ribs, or paying for the laser cutting etc...
I have to say, it's a beautiful little tool that I should've bought 30 years ago.
The wires it uses can be bent to shape. A small Vee profile around the perimeter of a rib might do well to hold the cabosil/milled fibre goo in place during assembly.

What you see in the photos is the aluminum cutting template in white and the foam rib in blue.
I first printed paper templates to scale and later transfered the paper template to the aluminum shown here.
Here's a tip - check your yellow pages for custom eavestrough - they buy aluminum sheet stock by the roll...


Proxxon Tools, Hotwire Cutter Thermocut 12/E (12v DC)

Voltage
12v, 60w, 50/60Hz

Cutting Wire Temperature
300 - 660 ºF
(150 - 350 ºC)

Maximum Extension
7.9" (200mm)

Cutting Height
5-3/4" (150mm)

Wire (NiCr8020)
11.4" Long, 20 gauge

Weight
0 lbs (3.0kg)




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