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Apr 18, 2008, 01:12 AM
Luke 12:7
reefboy's Avatar

Ritewing FS-36 Lightning Build

I now have over 70 flights on my FS-33. I can't tell you how much fun I've had with the FS-33. Being one of the first to get it flying I threw it together and did not put a lot of care into it not being sure how it would fly. So now that I know how awesome it flies I am eager to build the FS-36 Lightning with a bit more fore thought and care. I'll work on placing some photos of the build as I go along.

Current plans for the setup:
Motor: LightflightRC ARC 20-34-110
Prop: 4.5 x 4.1
ESC: Castle Creations Phoenix 25
Batt: 3s 2100? (FMA or TP Prolite)
Servos: BMS-380 MAX (Similar to HS-65mg)

Unlike my FS-33 which I glassed just the fuse, I will probably do a light glass on the entire wing . fyse and use much much less carbon. I might even have to give the new riteweave a shot depending on how brave I get. I am fairly comfortable with the Henrys and am used to it so I don't know if I want to stray from the comfort of the known.

Here is a first photo to kick the thread off. I'll post some of what I did tonight in subsequent posts.

Here is a video of it flying after about 6 flights since maiden. I'm totally enjoying it!!!
ritewing fs 36 lightning birthday weekend.wmv (7 min 43 sec)
Last edited by reefboy; Dec 10, 2008 at 12:24 AM. Reason: addition of video after completion
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Apr 18, 2008, 01:29 AM
resU deretsigeR
PaulVi's Avatar
Cool, I still have to post the fs33 edf build i did i have the photos and maiden video (maiden was non exsistant way to low on the power on 3s)

But never the less i have a starting place

The edf version cam out at 29oz with 2 1800 3s packs in the nose
Apr 18, 2008, 01:29 AM
GFBurke's Avatar
Sweet man!

I just did the cloth/electronics on my 36in FS. I need monokote and an iron now.. Looks like out power train is going to be similar:

Motor: LightflightRC ARC 20-34-110
Prop: 4.1 x 4.1
ESC: Castle Creations Phoenix 25
Batt: 3s
Servos: TP 9g

I cannot wait to try it and see some video of yours flying!
Apr 30, 2008, 10:52 PM
Luke 12:7
reefboy's Avatar
I've been slacking but not entirely.

I received my Thunderpower 3s 2100 battery, picked up a 25 watt weller solder from McMaster-Carr for $11 and a few extra tips, turned a few of the tips down to make different depth / width slots, and am pretty much ready to continue building. I will post in the next week or so. I do need to pick up the new sumo glue.

GFBurke - I do believe a prop with a diameter larger than 4" will be helpful / necessary on the FS-36 in terms of thrust. I am planning on starting out with at least a 4.5 x 4.0 prop and maybe go up from there.
May 01, 2008, 12:08 AM
GFBurke's Avatar
O coo. I now have monokote and just waiting for my iron to arrive to do my covering. I'll get pics up as well
May 11, 2008, 01:36 AM
GFBurke's Avatar
My CG is 7in from the nose. and 1in from the root of the leading edge of with wings.
Is that good?
May 11, 2008, 01:52 AM
Luke 12:7
reefboy's Avatar
1 inch ahead of where the wings meet the fuse?
I think that is to far foward.
My guess is that 1/4" ahead of the where the fuse meets the fuse should be pretty good. Maybe a bit more. But this is based on my first FS-33 where that one actually does well closer to where the wings meet the fuse (for me at least and my liking)

P.S. Even though I've been slacking I have made a fair amount of progress and have been taking photos. I'm hoping to tweak the photos some and lay out the overall sequence of what works for me.
May 11, 2008, 02:02 AM
GFBurke's Avatar
O sorry, I mean 1in back from the leading edge of the wing. (if you measure at the root of the wings - back)

Which is 7in from the nose.. same..

Yeah, Im about done too. Just need CG check then I can cover my other coro lid.. dont' need back in there once I'm done..
May 11, 2008, 10:38 AM
Luke 12:7
reefboy's Avatar
I think CG should be in front of where the wings meet the fuse. Maybe someone else who has a FS-36 Lightning can chime in...

But with out know for sure, I would start out with it ahead of by 1/4" or so at least to be on the safe side.
May 11, 2008, 10:49 AM
Build, Fly, Crash..Repeat
Wingman65's Avatar
I'm getting ready to start one of these, so I'll be following along. What are you doing for a motor mount?

May 11, 2008, 11:01 AM
Luke 12:7
reefboy's Avatar
I made the same motor mount I used in my Mini Demo (the standard flat piece of aluminum u-shaped motor mount) for my ARC 110 motor.
May 11, 2008, 11:13 AM
Build, Fly, Crash..Repeat
Wingman65's Avatar
Originally Posted by reefboy
I made the same motor mount I used in my Mini Demo (the standard flat piece of aluminum u-shaped motor mount) for my ARC 110 motor.
So u r cutting it in like normal Rite build and not strapping on top?
May 11, 2008, 11:34 AM
Fly me to the moon...
Atom1025's Avatar
Yeah, we make a U mount just smaller,
May 11, 2008, 06:40 PM
Luke 12:7
reefboy's Avatar

Here we go

Here we go... I'm not to far along but thought this might help others who are about to start. This might help me stay a bit more diligent completing the build.

One overall change I"m doing this time is doing everything I can before the wings are glued on. In the end I think it will make the build easier for me.

One of the first steps is to draw a line from the leading edge to the center of the trailing edge on the root of both wings and on both sides of the fuse.
Last edited by reefboy; May 11, 2008 at 06:50 PM.
May 11, 2008, 06:41 PM
Luke 12:7
reefboy's Avatar

beveling of the trailing edge

Next, lay out the elevon stock next to the trailing edge of the wing. Mark the top of the wing where the height of the elevon stock is the same. This will be the very back of the wing so that there is smooth airflow from wing to elevon transition. Then make marks on the bottom of the wing even further into the wing by an 1/8" or so (whatever looks good to you) so that there is a slight angle for elevon deflection. By doing this truing up to the trailing edge you will have better elevon deflection and a straighter edge for less binding of elevon movement.

I then make a few more marks along the length top and bottom to make it easier to align my straight edges nicely. I like to stick double-sided tape to one side of both pieces of aluminum stock so that they don't move all over the place while I am getting everything positioned correctly. Position them as shown and use small clamps to hold them in place or get your wife to help hold it while you cut it with a new blade.

Be sure to trim the back of your fuse to the right length. I do this by sliding the wings to the point where the TE of the wing is the same thickness as the fuse.
Last edited by reefboy; May 11, 2008 at 06:56 PM.

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