Spray Paint Over Dope? - RC Groups
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Apr 09, 2008, 01:38 AM
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Spray Paint Over Dope?

Is there a spray paint I can use over a doped tissue finish, maybe Krylon? Or could I mix ink in with dope to get a brush on color? The plane I'm building and want to color is a big 30" span so any added weight wouldn't make much difference. The tissue is indigo but where it overlaps it is darker. Kevin
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Apr 09, 2008, 02:47 AM
Good Better Best quest.
olmod's Avatar
years ago they used to sell coloured dope, if you ring a small paint MFG and talk to a chemist they will fill you in on suitable colourants,there was one down at Braeside that was aproachable some years back. worth a ring around a leather laquer used to be very popular with free flighters years ago ,if memory serves me it was called Hendersons. ops forgot your not in OZ.
Apr 09, 2008, 05:12 AM
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vintage1's Avatar
Car spray paints especailly cellulose will go on over dope OK. They will be havy, but if you have a sprtay gun and can buy them and thin them rather than use teh can, they will work..

I think dope is good for just about any sprayable paint actually.
Apr 09, 2008, 07:49 AM
slow but inefficient
Ron Williams's Avatar
Test first. A lot of spray paints will go over Nitrate dope but not Butyrate.
Apr 09, 2008, 09:15 AM
Registered User
Hey Kevin,

Ron is right, as long as your using nitrate dope; but, make sure you let let it dry for at least a week. Why you ask, because dope tends to "gas off" and can cause bubbles in the paint. As for paint, I've used Krylon, and Orchard Supply Hardware brand with great results. But as Vintage said: Watch your weight!

Apr 09, 2008, 09:24 AM
What's wrong with heavy?
dephela's Avatar
A very nice finish can be had with "Design Master" floral spray. It comes it many great colors, the spray pattern leaves a smooth consistent application. It can be put on anywhere from a light, very transparent coat that has little "splotching" all the way up to opaque and doesn't add much weight.

Smells terrible when spraying but no other problems when applied over nitrate.

Available at "Michael's" craft stores. "Joanne Fabrics" handles it also.
Apr 09, 2008, 12:34 PM
Registered User
Thanks for all the great answers. I'm using nitrate. Kevin
Apr 09, 2008, 03:19 PM
B for Bruce
BMatthews's Avatar
Color paint is a lot heavier than you think even for a 30 inch model.

There's a few notable exceptions. A buddy likes using Floquil model railroad paint applied with an airbrush in a very light coat when he needs colors. However the Floquil is always a flat colour. That didn't bother him since he's always done this to military scale models. The floquil pigments provide much better coverage than most paints so they manage with a very light mist coat.

If it was electric or glow powered I'd say go for it. But being rubber powered you really need to know you want to carry around the extra handicap.
Apr 09, 2008, 06:15 PM
Registered User
Thanks Bruce. I don't want the extra weight. It really doesn't look bad the way it is. It's a HERR Corsair which turned out to be the best kit I've built if anyone is thinking about a large scale model. I'm not going to compete with it so I don't need to make it look "perfect". If I had it to do again though, I wouldn't use the tissue it came with. Even though the tissue is very pretty, it turned out to be hard to apply. I'd use Esaki Jap. And by the way, I increased the wing dihedral so the wing tips are up to the canopy area. Kevin
Apr 09, 2008, 09:11 PM
B for Bruce
BMatthews's Avatar
Since it's a scale model you may want to follow my buddy's example with the airbrush and Floquil then. It really does make for a nice job and the flat color would be scale.

Just don't even consider for a second using a regular brush. If it's not an airbrush it'll be super thick and heavy by the time you brush it on and don't see any brush streaks. No way around it.
Apr 09, 2008, 09:54 PM
Registered User
Thanks again, Bruce. A scale look would be nice. What exactly is Floquil and where can I get it? I was thinking of using a brush but now no way. This is a really neat airplane but although I said the tissue doesn't look bad, it does bother me. Kevin

Actually the local Hobby Lobby should carry model railroad Floquil paint, but does it come in blue?
Apr 10, 2008, 07:11 AM
Registered User
Now that I've applyed the dope it doesn't look bad. The tissue darkened and the seams are hardly visible. There are decals I could use but I don't know how to transfer them and I don't know if they will go over the doped finish. Does any one know anything about that? These decals don't seem to have boarders, it looks like I'll have to cut them out my self. Kevin
Apr 10, 2008, 08:50 AM
What's wrong with heavy?
dephela's Avatar
Decals will go on right over a doped surface. Trimming off all the excess material around the decal object is a good idea, less chance of "ghosting".

"Water slide" decals are just that. Slip the decal into lukewarm water for a few moments, as the decal loosens take the decal and backing paper out of the water and place it over the surface it will be applied to. Take a paper towl and remove some of the excess water at this point and place the decal backing to the surface and slide the completely loose decal off the backing into position. It helps to move the backing away and let the decal come off rather than to slide the decal off of backing that isn't moving.

Move the decal to its final, perfect position. With a paper towel, remove all the water from the decal area by patting rather than by sweeping.

Hope that helps.
Apr 10, 2008, 09:51 AM
Registered User
Thanks dephela
Apr 10, 2008, 11:11 PM
B for Bruce
BMatthews's Avatar
If you're happy with how it looks then don't paint it.

For next time Floquil paints are typically found in small tins at shops that cater to model railroad enthusiasts. It's your basic plastic model paint but of a really high quality.

If you do this you don't need a fancy airbrush either. Even a basic external mix style like this one will work just fine. I've got an old Badger external mix and it is way finer than you need for our use. The plastic modelers would poo-poo it but they are working with little 1/48 sized figurines and not 20 inch spans.


$9.... of course you'll need a few things like an air supply but at least you see that you don't need to go nuts on the airbrush itself. We aren't touching up negatives with it after all.

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