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Mar 29, 2008, 05:22 PM
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Malc M's Avatar
Thread OP
Build Log

TNG 60" EPP Plank


I recently decided to buy a kit for a 60" EPP plank for club racing this year and being a patriotic brit decided to get the TNG kit from David Sykes (Cloud 9). I have built a few EPP models and learnt a lot from the LEG EPP bulding clinic DVDs, however I wouldn't claim to be an expert of any sort so this build log is more to show what the kit is like and any suggestions anyone may have are very welcome.

TNG website

The kit was really well packaged and shipped with a really comprehensive CD of build tips which autoran when I put it in the computer.

The kit includes a bag of small parts containing the right lengths of carbon tow, thread and kevlar thread for the kit. Some attention to detail!
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Mar 29, 2008, 05:31 PM
AKA Cactus
Phillybaby's Avatar
they look good, which version is this, i love the look of the one with the long boom, but seems he's not selling this one yet.
tho it would look to be just swap the carbon boom for a longer one
Mar 29, 2008, 05:33 PM
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Drew360's Avatar
nice... ive never seen the TNG before but i like it... looks like a quality kit... i look forward to seeing it completed
Mar 29, 2008, 05:50 PM
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Malc M's Avatar
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There is a short length of carbon rod to epoxy into the middle of the aluminium spar joiner for reinforcement. It was an exact fit so didn't need much epoxy. The spar joiner fits into the two pieces of carbon golf club shaft supplied. They had already been cut to size and slid over the spar joiner to make a snug fit. A small amount of epoxy locked it in tight.

The kit contained a length of kevlar thread for whipping the ends of the carbon shafts and suggested whipping another length of cotton thread tightly over the kevlar before CA-ing it all in place.

The one piece spar was easy to make and looks the business. The epp wing is cut really nicely. It hardly needed sanding, there were no ridges or irregularities and virtually none of those melted EPP tags you have to pick off.

By now you must think this build log is written by one of Cloud 9's best mates. In actual fact, geographically it is like serving Pimms cocktails for the Grimethorpe Colliery Band.

Hey I shouldn't have said that. This is a TNG build thread not a north/south of England discussion so resist that urge to post. I love the north of England anyway!

Oh I forgot to mention TNG stands for "The Next Generation" I think.
Mar 29, 2008, 06:15 PM
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Malc M's Avatar
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The fuselage was also beautifully cut with a carbon reinforcing rod already glued internally along its length and exiting at the tail.

I didn't take a proper pic before I sanded it fairly extensively. As supplied the wing shape has already been cut out and the rear part of it cut to size and glued back in place. This is a fantastically well prepared kit! The cut out is included so you can hold it in the gap when sanding the fuselage. Obviously the way to do it but it took me 10 minutes to figure out that was the best plan!

As you can see from my pictures there is a short carbon boom exiting the rear of the fuselage and so it seems my model will have a longer tail than this picture on David's website. It obviously won't have as long a tail as this "S" type on the website though. It seems like there is not just one TNG and the design is evolving still.

Do you think I should round the fuselage any more? I was going to leave it like this.
Mar 29, 2008, 06:36 PM
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Malc M's Avatar
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The wing beds are obviously supplied so it was a doddle to PU the spar in place. Amazingly my kit also came with 6 "scrap" pieces of balsa which were exactly right for holding the spar down in the slot...yes they were meant to be scrap the parts list even includes them! How many kits include the right bits of scrap?! I have cut back the PU foam and planed it down before spackling over the spar slot. The servos are going in the top of the wing and I have "potted" the holes for them with epoxy and microballoons.

Next job is to make a ballast tube for the wing. Everything else about this kit is so perfect that I would love it to have a ballast tube but David's notes say he hasn't included it to keep the cost down. It would be a great option as I bet his version would be well thought out. What weight of ballast would you put in a 60" EPP plank like this? I also need to consider that I am planning to build it fairly solid anyway.

Am I right in thinking that the front 25% of the wing needs to be EPP for the 60" rule so that means I need to be careful where I put the ballast tube?

One of the next jobs is to fit the radio gear into the fus. Any reason I shouldn't put the battery at exactly 1 inches back from the nose. Obviously a couple of extra mm would be sensible but I would hate to have to add extra lead later when I should have put the battery further forward. The build notes seem to show it being put further back than that so perhaps it doesn't need to be that far forward?
Mar 29, 2008, 07:14 PM
Put in all the lead
n-tropic's Avatar
Hi Malc,

Kit quality looks excellent. Also you seem to be making a good job of it.

Several TNGs in evidence at the BMFA EPP60 comp today. It's a competitive machine. Come and race with us when you've got it done!

Steve
Mar 30, 2008, 04:46 AM
Born Again Idiot
MooSey-UK's Avatar
Watching with interest Malc.
Im still looking for a nice plank and never found out much info on these.
Reading your build and flight testing comments will be perfect timing
Particularly interested in the ballast install.
Build looking great so far by the way.
Mar 30, 2008, 01:59 PM
Looking good - I picked on of these up before christmas but I haven't had ime to start it yet.........
Mar 30, 2008, 02:57 PM
crashed again
Rocket Ronnie's Avatar

Ballast tube


Malc iam sure that either Cloud 9 or Skirmish would advise you about the ballast tube instalation & size. Its a great model and i am sure that you will get hours of fun flying it. As Steve says come racing once you have it bult.
RR
Mar 30, 2008, 03:05 PM
Registered User
skirmish's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rocket Ronnie
Malc iam sure that either Cloud 9 or Skirmish would advise you about the ballast tube instalation & size. Its a great model and i am sure that you will get hours of fun flying it. As Steve says come racing once you have it bult.
RR
I think Dave (Cloud9) is the man to advise. I never actually built my TNG as it was a prototype provided by Dave for me to give a good testing and to do a bit of parallel development, which is why it has the boom and fin arrangement instead of the fuz mounted fin.
Mar 30, 2008, 04:40 PM
Put in all the lead
n-tropic's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Malc M
Am I right in thinking that the front 25% of the wing needs to be EPP for the 60" rule so that means I need to be careful where I put the ballast tube?
These are the relevant sections of the rules:

4.2.2
The D-Box of each wing panel must be constructed from EPP
except at Centre Section, Spars and ballast (subject to
4.6.1). No local reinforcement of the leading edge is
permitted.

4.6.1
Ballast and balance weight must be mounted internally. If
mounted in the wing, no part of the ballast or enclosing
tube may lie forward of the 15% or 1.5 inch chord line,
whichever is the lesser. Note: the pilot is responsible for
ensuring that any ballast carried is within the structural
limits of the model.

So your ballast tube is fine being forward of the 25% chord line subject to the above. As it needs to be on the CG this is unavoidable.

I would advise that a ballast tube is a really good idea to allow you to stay competitive in all conditions. here is a guide as to how to make one. Your tube can be end loaded (make a little chamber in the wing at one end of it to allow you to feed your slugs in).



Quote:
Originally Posted by Malc M
One of the next jobs is to fit the radio gear into the fus. Any reason I shouldn't put the battery at exactly 1 inches back from the nose. Obviously a couple of extra mm would be sensible but I would hate to have to add extra lead later when I should have put the battery further forward. The build notes seem to show it being put further back than that so perhaps it doesn't need to be that far forward?
You will find that, as lead is heavier than batteries, it makes sense to put any nose weight in front of the batteries so you have to use less of it. You will certainly need some I would think.

I also like to keep the hard bits a wee bit further back than 1 1/2" from the nose - maybe as much as 1 3/4". Nose tips can get a bit compressed after a few harsh landings and this just makes absolutely sure you stay legal.

Steve
Mar 30, 2008, 10:08 PM
************
Drew360's Avatar
looking good so far ** thumbs up**
Mar 31, 2008, 03:39 AM
Registered User
I have also purchased a TNG from Dynamic Soaring and can confirm that the kit was as well presented as described earlier. I am about 5 days into my bulid so I am at a similar build position.

I have had difficulty sourcing 30 minute PU glue as my local builders merchants only seem to stock the fast setting 5 minute type. I have ordered some Gorilla Glue from E-Bay. I will have to wait for this before I can glue the spar in position.

I am planning to bottom hinge the elevons and top mount the servos (HS85MG). This will leave a gap on the upper surface that needs to be covered by a wiper. Has anyone any suggestions as to suitable materials to make a wiper from? I have some drawing office type Mylar film but it is very flexible. I need something that is more rigid.

I have cut out an opening in the fuselage for my battery and radio. Whilst cutting out the EPP I discovered that the fuselage carbon spar extends about 75mm past the opening for the wing leading edge. I would advise some care if you are planning when making your opening in this area.

I have made a blast tube from fibreglass using a 15mm copper tube for a mandrel. I have cast weights into the tube and have a series of weights ready. A 40mm length of tube gives a 75g slug. I am planning to include 375g of balast. I hope this will be enough?
Mar 31, 2008, 04:36 AM
Put in all the lead
n-tropic's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartplus4
I have had difficulty sourcing 30 minute PU glue as my local builders merchants only seem to stock the fast setting 5 minute type. I have ordered some Gorilla Glue from E-Bay. I will have to wait for this before I can glue the spar in position.
I would think the 5 minute stuff would be OK as long as you can work fast. It tends to take a little longer than 5 min to go off especially when used in quantity.

The gorilla glue is good but it takes more like 12 hours to set. Do it in the evening and it's ready in the morning job.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartplus4
I am planning to bottom hinge the elevons and top mount the servos (HS85MG). This will leave a gap on the upper surface that needs to be covered by a wiper. Has anyone any suggestions as to suitable materials to make a wiper from? I have some drawing office type Mylar film but it is very flexible. I need something that is more rigid.
Wipers are a bit of overkill on a foamy pylon racer really but none the less I like to use them. If you are ever going to try DSing it they probably become a bit more relevant then.

I have used that drafting film before and its just about OK. Better is to use 3M Book Tape . This is my "go to" tape for hinging on pylon racers as its very tough and has just the right degree of flexibility (use the 38mm wide roll). I use it in conjunction with crossweave tape compression hinges. If you cut it in half length ways (to 19mm ish wide) you can use it as a wiper too. Pull the control surface clear and stick the strip of tape along the TE of the wing (keep it dead straight!) leaving about half the width overhanging. Then sprinkle talcum powder over the overhang to kill the glue and stop it sticking to the control surface. Job done!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bartplus4
I have made a blast tube from fibreglass using a 15mm copper tube for a mandrel. I have cast weights into the tube and have a series of weights ready. A 40mm length of tube gives a 75g slug. I am planning to include 375g of balast. I hope this will be enough?
Ballast amount is a bit of a matter of personal taste and of appropriateness to the particular plane. It might be worth asking Cloud 9 what he recommends. 375g is probably OK but more might be good for those epic days. 375g would indicate a 20cm tube. 30cm or there abouts is fairly normal (as long as you can fit it in within the rules - see earlier post).

Steve


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