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Jun 02, 2009, 05:26 PM
LSFIII working on LVL IV
enrico74ec's Avatar
Thanks, I actually got inspired by the fireworks, but I decided It was doable after you did it, so why not. Anywya, would you mind explaining a bit more on the 2/1 horn ratio? i have Blue Bird 308 servos going in, unfortunately, no budget for digis now.

Frans, How would you recomend to do the bending of the torque wire if using a 0.5 mm? I searched everywhere and cant get that 0.3 mm whire. The one I have is 0.020 in in imperial units.

thanks Enrico
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Jun 02, 2009, 07:58 PM
Registered User
pyrsly's Avatar
HeHe Nice to read that! 2/1 horn ratio mean that 1" horn on stab and 1/2" on servo. I cut down throws on dual rates to 50/75% for regular flaing and kip 100% for aerobatics. 0.18-0.20 fishing leader works great and is dirt cheap. Teflon tubing makes nice tight pushrod housing and is something worth of buying (on-line). Digital servo helps because FF stab is twitchy by definition and You need good centering and slop free servo. You can get digitals as low as 12$.
Good luck
Seba
Jun 03, 2009, 05:55 AM
LSFIII working on LVL IV
enrico74ec's Avatar
Seba,

Thanks for the explanation, actually it makes sense. I do have experience though with FF stabs. My first dlg was an apogee and had a v mount for the ff stab. I had a 285ds from JR there and still was sensitive to centering. I found out that alrhough Digis are a must there, a good slop free linkage is required also for good centering.

I will upgrade later on to digis, both rudder and stab! by the way, which ones are the sdp60 servos you mentioned before?

thanks

Enrico
Jun 03, 2009, 07:36 AM
Registered User
pyrsly's Avatar
try this link
http://searchrc.horizonhobby.com/ind...527+4294966666
First six are business
I bot then-pack of spd60 for 99$. So far very hapy with it.
Jun 03, 2009, 11:30 AM
David Eddy (Dave from CT)
Just trimmed out the semisolid wing on the new long fuse. Nose is so long I'm thinking of calling it the Ferret. Flew real well, but my peg folded on my first substantial launch so I came home, need to make a new one. I generally laminate two layers of 1/32" plywood but could see that the failure was due to the lams not being well bonded together. Got to do some work around here so next flight will have to wait.

Too bad, lots of wind but the bubbles were there! One toss with no peg was up for a minute with no altitude on launch to speak of!

Would have flown my other bird but I'm waiting on a replacement pod. Guess it's the Mimi for now.

dave in ct
Jun 03, 2009, 08:44 PM
LSFIII working on LVL IV
enrico74ec's Avatar
For wing peg I used the Carbon fiber strip of maybe 1/2 inch and cut several pieces of 1 1/2 in long, six of them and laminated them. Turns quite a strong throwing blade.

Enrico
Jun 04, 2009, 01:53 AM
Find it, Fix it, Fly it!
Capt Slow's Avatar

Plans arrived


Frans,

Thanks for sending the plans so quickly , I am looking forward to building this one.

Regards,

Simon.
Jun 08, 2009, 11:08 AM
LSFIII working on LVL IV
enrico74ec's Avatar

More Progress


So after some more sanding and fiddling around i finished joining the outer panels to the poly wing. also during the weekend I vacuum bagged the tail feathers. they looked just too flexi so i reinforced them with 0.75 oz glass and some cf tow. looked very nice. I did instla the spring wire and did a coil spring for the full flying stab. looking good, finished ready to be mounted to the boom at 10 grams. boom weigth is 10 grs and still not finished pod is at 20gr. the wing im estimating a final weight of 80 grms.

I still need to add cf tow around the sides of the pod and install the wing holding block. i am thinking of glassing the fuse with a couple of layers of .75 oz fiberglass. will post some pics tonight.

Enrico
Jun 08, 2009, 11:02 PM
LSFIII working on LVL IV
enrico74ec's Avatar
Ok, as promised heres some pictures from todays work. Áfter close look I think I will have to go for the second wing and the zone airfoils on a foam/bagged wing. Airfoils are just tooo thin to be able to sand with any accuracy.

Left to do: (that means, reminder to me )
- Screw attachment block
- front pin
- wing alingnment
- boom and tail group alignment and glue
- close rear pod
- glass with CF tow reinforcement the pod
- Bag throwing blade and shape
- open a hatch
- install readio
- install throwing blade
- test fly

Enjoy

Enrico
Jun 09, 2009, 10:28 PM
LSFIII working on LVL IV
enrico74ec's Avatar
More progress today, Screw block securely attached, throwing blade made, rear pod closed and sanded. It's looking good! So far the weight with uninstalled components is in at 110 grms but apparently is going to require nose weight. I will definitively glass the pod and reinforce it a little at the nose.

I still have lots of tiny details to finish, One of them is the finish for the wing. which way should I go? I have white nitrate dope, finishing resin, nelson lite red covering? I will add the fiberglass tape on the joints, i'll make the out of 0.75 oz for the outer panels and regular fiberglass tape for the middle joint.

Hope i can maiden her this weekend, just dying to

Enrico
Jun 11, 2009, 11:55 AM
Registered User
Frans Bal's Avatar
Thread OP
Hi Enrico,

You don't need to put any fiberglass on the middle joint.
The only fiberglass i have put on a wing joint is at the break between the inner and outer panel, launching side.
I also have put a 2" wide piece of fiberglass on the launching tip, top and bottom.
At the trailing edge on each break I have put 1-1/2" sided triangles to reinforce them.



Frans
Last edited by Frans Bal; Jun 11, 2009 at 12:06 PM.
Jun 11, 2009, 01:50 PM
Registered User
Frans Bal's Avatar
Thread OP
Glue the joints with 30 min epoxy.
To get a better bond prick small holes 1 to 2 mm in diameter and 3 or 4 mm deep in the surface to to glued.
You can use a nail or small screwdriver to make the holes.
Stick the panels together only at the bottom using masking tape.
Fold the joint open using the masking tape as a hinge.
Put epoxy on both sides and press it in the holes.
Then, lay a nice coat of epoxy on both sides and fold the joint back.
Prop up the tip at the right hight.
Wipe of any epoxy that has oosed out and let it set.

Frans
Jun 11, 2009, 06:39 PM
LSFIII working on LVL IV
enrico74ec's Avatar
Thanks Frans for the tips, I actually used 5 min, but I did work one joint at the time and did the holes and as you described. It looks very tough! I just will put the fiberglass like you showed me for a bit of reasurance. Now I didn't mentioned, I haven't done anything on the center joint (I mean, It is glued together and strong with your method shown, but should i put a CF strip for dihedral brace, should I fiberglass it or just leave it alone.

thanks for the help!

Enrico
Jun 12, 2009, 04:06 AM
Registered User
MGeo's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Frans Bal
Hi Enrico,

I also have put a 2" wide piece of fiberglass on the launching tip, top and bottom.
At the trailing edge on each break I have put 1-1/2" sided triangles to reinforce them.

Frans
Frans,

Just to be clear, do you use light (0.75 oz / 25 gram) fiberglass?
Jun 12, 2009, 05:33 AM
Registered User
Frans Bal's Avatar
Thread OP
Enrico,

The center dihedral break is normally reinforced with a strip of 1.5 mm plywood.
It's best to reinforce this break with the plywood, CA strips or fiberglass (two layers, one wide one narrow, of 58 gr/m2) just to be on the safe side.


MGeo,

Quote:
Just to be clear, do you use light (0.75 oz / 25 gram) fiberglass?
For the triangles you can use 25 gram, on the break and tip I used 58 gram.

Frans


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