iCharger 1010B+, 106B+, 208B, 206B, 306B and 3010B - Page 877 - RC Groups
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Nov 30, 2012, 09:43 PM
Southern Pride
everydayflyer's Avatar
No matter what the brand the power source is a 7Ah AGM sealed Pb battery which cost between $13 and $23 and is rated at 4Ah discharged at 20 hour rate down to 10.5V which is 100% stae of discharge. Discharged at say 3A rate capacity will be closer to 4Ah.

These units are fine for charging a 3S 1700 mAh or less a few times but that is about it. Some have a 12Ah battery in them which gives twice the useable capaity at a 5A discharge rate.

Go here a scroll down until you find a green,yellow red chart showing approx. remaing capacity for no load voltage.


Last edited by everydayflyer; Dec 01, 2012 at 03:43 PM.
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Dec 01, 2012, 03:07 PM
Registered User
mucwendel's Avatar
@Junsi and others

I've not used my 2 106B+ chargers some time.
Now one displays "Connection break down" after pressing the start button for the second time.

The other one is starting and displays "reverse polarity" (nothing is connected)???

All cables, battery's and power supply are O.K. if using with another charger.

I've looked inside and see nothing strange.
I've also updated both to the newest fw but no change.

Any Idea? Any solution?
Any secret code or button press?


Dec 03, 2012, 07:30 AM
Registered User
Hi all.
I purchased the iCharger 106B+.
Is this power supply suitable for this charger?
What is the size needed for the input plug?
Dec 03, 2012, 08:12 AM
Registered User
The power supply itself will work, yes. I do not know the size of the input jack on the charger, however.

I cut the end off my laptop power supply and soldered on banana receptacles. You can also use female 4mm bullet connectors. It works fine with my 106B+.

What kind of batteries are you trying to charge? My supply like this worked great for mCP X batteries. But when I bought a 450, and started charging larger batteries in parallel, I found that my "6A" power supply will overheat and shut down if I draw more than around 5.0A from it. It started limiting how quickly I could charge.

There are a few other inexpensive, higher-output supplies you can use. There are power supplies for server computers, which can be modified pretty easily to run these chargers. The Dell DPS-600PB, which I bought for under $15 shipped on eBay, puts out 12V, 47A, 575W. There are discussion threads about modifying these types of supplies, with info to walk you through it. It does have a fan, but when modified, it's fairly quiet.

For a silent option, there is another Dell brick-style laptop supply, which puts out 12V, and a bit over 200W. I think they are around $20 or so on eBay. There is some modification required to use these as well. I don't have the part # or link handy, sorry. But this style would be silent, and effectively would not limit the charger, unlike the 90W supply.

The nice thing is that there are several options that will work, it just depends on how much modification you're willing to do. The supply you linked to would be the easiest cheap approach. It might just plug right in (I don't know), or get different connectors (you can get banana receptacles at Radio Shack) and attach them instead. There are also hobby-type power supplies, but they will be maybe $60 for 350W, vs $15 for 575W, if you're willing to modify a server power supply.

I used these RS receptacles for mine. I hope this helps.


You can also buy already-modified server power supplies from feathermerchantrc.com, getting you a higher-capacity supply, for $50, ready to go. It's more than doing it yourself, but still much less than an equivalent-capacity hobby supply.
Last edited by RedOctobyr; Dec 03, 2012 at 08:22 AM.
Dec 03, 2012, 08:59 AM
Proud to eat Kraut ;-)
Julez's Avatar
This power supply will work.
I use a similar one, although with only 13.8V.

I agree that the connector on the PS is not the most universal one. Banana jacks will work for most. I converted all my chargers and power supplies to MPX plugs (Deans will also work).
This way, I have less bulk and no danger of wrong polarity by accident.

You should adjust the low voltage threshold of your charger input in the neighbourhood of 13-14V to get the most power from this PS.


Dec 03, 2012, 12:48 PM
Registered User
galaxy1's Avatar

I would like to add the function to regenerate lead-acid batteries.
the regeneration is possible with the system to pulsed current.
it is a method that really works.
look here for further info:


Dec 03, 2012, 03:31 PM
Registered User
Thanks for the detailed answers.
Now I understand.
PS input allows to connect maximum 6A 18V, which gives us only 108W.
Preferable to use a banana plug with a maximum of 18V 25A, which gives 450W.
Since we need only 250W, we can vary the number of Volts and Amperes, until achieve the desired performance.
(I use it for 3S 5000mAh batteries maximum)
Dec 03, 2012, 04:17 PM
Registered User
Pretty much. Though, there is a chart in the manual which shows the charger's output, relative to the input voltage. Below ~13.8V input, it will not make it's maximum output power of 250W, unfortunately. And it's not trivial to find a high-power supply that is above ~14V, but below 18V. The 206B charger can take up to 28V, I think, which makes this a lot easier. But we with the 106B+ get the more difficult situation.

I have resigned myself to not getting the full 250W I think I'll get somewhere around 220W or so, from what I recall, with the 12.5V input voltage from my server supply.

If you're charging 3S 5000mAh packs, I would not use the little 90W supply. 90W would give you 7.1A at 3S, if the power supply could put out the full 90W, and if everything was 100% efficient. The charger can manage 10A, so you know you're already giving up power output.

And with 3S, you can manage ~125W of output, max (10A, 12.6V output), so if you aren't doing >3S, you don't need to worry about an input voltage below 14V. 12V will be fine.

I'd use either a converted server power supply (which can supply much more power than you can use, but would have more capacity available if you got a bigger charger in the future), or something like the ~200W 12V laptop brick. But that's actually more expensive, and less-capable. Also, if you got a bigger charger in the future, you can modify certain server supplies to work together for a 24V output. That will help bigger chargers reach their full output, and also reduces efficiency losses to heat.
Dec 07, 2012, 05:01 AM
Registered User
sdimit's Avatar
hi all,
i got a 106+ for a couple of years updated to v3.14 firmware and today decided to check its calibration.in the calibration voltage screen i noticed something that i don't know if its strange or not. the Vin voltage was blinking between actual 14.08V and calibration amount16V while my multimeter showed 14.05V.the Vout was blinking between 24.86V and -21V while the multimeter was showing 24.8V.so is there a problem with my calibration amount values or not?do i really have to calibrate my charger or leave it as is?thanks
Dec 07, 2012, 08:34 PM
Foam Junkie
Originally Posted by sdimit
hi all,
i got a 106+ for a couple of years updated to v3.14 firmware and today decided to check its calibration.in the calibration voltage screen i noticed something that i don't know if its strange or not. the Vin voltage was blinking between actual 14.08V and calibration amount16V while my multimeter showed 14.05V.the Vout was blinking between 24.86V and -21V while the multimeter was showing 24.8V.so is there a problem with my calibration amount values or not?do i really have to calibrate my charger or leave it as is?thanks
In my opinion this is real simple... If it charges the batteries properly then there is no need to do anything.
Dec 08, 2012, 08:28 AM
Registered User
Any owner of the 1010B+ can tell me what the code of resistor R129?
My R129 resistor don't have impression code. (Green circle)

Dec 09, 2012, 05:14 AM
Registered User
Does anyone else have this kind of problem with 1010B+?
This happened after i updated my firmware to 3.14, before that it worked with no problem.
When i load different settings from "Load Settings" to my charger and it goes right to charging section, i hold my enter button to start charging, it looks like its charging but current never rises. After i re-start my charger it works with no problem.
And this problem occurs everytime i have loaded settings and try to charge without re-starting my charger.

Another guestion, is there anyway to get new buttons for my charger? My enter button needs lots of force to work, other buttons work much better.
Dec 09, 2012, 12:32 PM
Registered User
I might be able to help with the button issue.
If it is hard to press, it may have crud around the button itself... at least that is the way my 206 is assembled. There is a plastic/rubber extension so to speak that actuates the tactile button on the circuit board. If there is anything around it, it could be adding too much friction.
Dec 09, 2012, 10:17 PM
Registered User
I have a i206b V3.14 and it happened a few time.I use a parallel board.

1) I power up my iCharger with the parallel board already connect to the iCharger
2) I connect the lipo balancing lead of first battery (i charge 4 simultaneously)
3) I connect lipo power lead of first battery.
4) I connect the lipo balancing lead of 2nd battery.
5) I connect lipo power lead of 2nd battery and so on...

Then a push the start button or any other on the iCharger buttons and there is no response. I have to turn off-on the iCharger 3 or 4 times in a row before I can regain control of the iCharger.
P.S. each time i reset the iCharger and can see the "System check, wait please..." comment appear as usual.
Dec 09, 2012, 11:40 PM
Registered User
I could be wrong... and I am sure I will be corrected if I am... but I would not hook batteries up that way as it is a good way to burn out your balance wires and ruin a battery.

Step 1 is fine, but steps 2-5 are not what I would consider a safe practice. You should be hooking all the main leads of every battery first that way if there is a difference in voltage between the packs they are leveling themselves out through the main leads and not the balance leads. Then go through and hook up all the balance leads.


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