When operating two 720I NET3 chargers in sync mode not only do you get 14S capability, but you also get up to 500W.

True, it becomes like a DUO with 250W/port rather than 180W/port. Of course with two 208B you get up to 16S at 700W and if you simply connect the balance leads in parallel for a minute or two after disconnecting the packs from the chargers then you will have perfect pack-to-pack balance as well

Or you could simply charge two (or more) packs in parallel to start with and with 350W/20A vs 250W/10A be finished in almost the same time (or perhaps a bit longer) as with two 720i running in synch mode.

Can anyone recommend a power supply that will work with the 208, to fully utilize it's charging capabilities?

Hello !

I have yust get 106 i plus from hobby city.

I must admit this is a realy nice toy.

Question : Is it posible to use 6S balancing port for universal balancing cable for all types of bateries ( like I have on my ultrmat 16 )
Case : In the case I have only 4 S batery I use only the first 5 pins ( no..6 and 7 stays unconected )
Reason : I could use only one cable for all types of bateries, no need to have special cable for each batery only one universal cable.

And hear is the new recomendation for the next upgrade of the charger:
The only function wich I missing is the warming up for bateris ( thermal regulator for exsternal source of warming up device ).
I have use this function a lot on my ultra duo 50.
In the winter time wee now all the lipo bateris does not act wery well in the cold conditions. So I bild a litle box, isolated and put inside one 12V glow from the car cca 50 W, put in the temparature sensor and set the temparature on 35 deg/ celsius. And when I took the warm up batery from the box and putit in my heli the heli performance is like during the sumer.
Also I have use this function for the warming up my moulds for laminating tail rotor blades ( I make tail rotor blades by my selve ).

Since this charger have a virecuter suply and the thermal sensor bild in I thing this would bee a good way for the next upgrade and not too much work.

A lot of my friends would buy this charger if this option will bee bild in.
In other case the buy ultramat 40 wich is a litle more money, but have this option.

Regards

Originally Posted by HSC2

Also I have use this function for the warming up my moulds for laminating tail rotor blades ( I make tail rotor blades by my selve ).

That is a slick idea - having the output started/stopped by the thermal sensor!

Probably best done by defining a cut-off/max temp and a min temp (a "temperature window"). On start you heat until max, then always keep it above min. If you reach min, you heat until max again. Defining a single temp only, and trying to keep it there, would probably cycle the bulb too often and destroy it? How does the duo setup work?

T

Hoj !

No the thing does not work like termostat but it works more like termoregulator.

The duo 50 have set up values :

- 1st : Imput curent ( this one definy the intesitiviti of warming, in case I have only one warmimg glov I set the value to 4 amps if I have 2 units, for a larger warmimg space I set it to 8 Amps ), this value is variabile set from 1 to 8 amps.

-2nd value is set up temparature1 ( also variabile walue set from 15............99 degs

-3rd Time for 1st set temparature ( 1..........600 mins)

I know there is some ukomplicated algoritm on the brains of the charger too get the temparature stabilisation without histerese, but with some testing this would bee wery posible.

-4th value is delay time ( time in the midtime, also variable set from 0 to........)

-5th value is rais up the temparature ( also variabil value ), exselent choice for " nahtemperung". First I warming the molds on 38 degs, to get max viscosity of the resign and the after 200mins I rais up to 60 deg for cca 120 mins ( in this case I can get wery hard and nice look laminates from CF fibers )

-6th Time for 2nd set temparature ( my case 60, but is variabile )1..........600 mins)

- Aslo ther would be a good option if ther would bee posibility to set up more stages 4 or 5 .

- The regulator on ultra duo works that way too warming up with maximum preset curent ( 1st value ) unti he reach up the first set value and then not shut down, but decline the curent that way the temparature stays stabilised on 1 set value, and then until time runs out( 3rd value ) rais up to second set value (5th)and stays there until the second set time runs out an then stop the warming (6th ).

In I can shoure you this function is wery,wery useful once you have it.

Regards

Originally Posted by HSC2

Question : Is it posible to use 6S balancing port for universal balancing cable for all types of bateries ( like I have on my ultrmat 16 )

Sure: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=1715

Fred

Originally Posted by flarssen

Sure: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=1715

Fred

Hi Fred, first of all i own an 1010+, still don't used, and i try to read all the thread, but belive me, it's sooo long that it's almost impossible to read all and remember it, so following your link to another post of this thread, you mention that you have one 1010 without the "known issues", so the question is, what are these known issues, to find and fix it if possible?
thnks in advance

Juanjo

Hi all, have read through most of this thread but have a question I havent seen raised.

With my old charger I use 4 x 12volt 7amp SLA batteries in parrallel (as they fit nicely in the bottom of my tool box) for a field charging supply. My old charger was maximum 17 or 18 volts, so the 12 volt supply was fine. Now I notice this one will take up to 32 volts in.

I only have 3S batteries, but used to charge them in series at the field on a quick charge to get me back in the air again. Now with this one I am thinking of trying the parallel charging (not after a debate on pros and cons of each, just stating my intentions!).


So to the point finally... Lets say I stay with the requirement to charge 3S packs, would it be more efficient to stay with the 4 batteries in parallel as a 28amp 12v supply, or, change it around to 2S2P to make it a 14amp 24v supply????

I might chuck a battery on and stick the wattsup meter on the input to see what difference it makes. I guess thinking out loud the downside is its harder to charge up the power source since I only have a 12v car charger to charge it with!!

Charging 3S LiPolys effeciency will not be much different using 12V or 24V input. With 12V max. output is approx. 255 watts ,drops to approx. 230 watts at 11V and 17V + it is 350 watts. 250 watts give you approx/20A charge rate.

There is a input / output chart in the Owner's Manual and it is accurate.
Charles

Originally Posted by JUANJOARCHILLA

you mention that you have one 1010 without the "known issues", so the question is, what are these known issues, to find and fix it if possible?

It was just the first batches that had screws come loose and bad soldering in some parts. Not a problem anymore, I hope.

Originally Posted by SeaComms

I might chuck a battery on and stick the wattsup meter on the input to see what difference it makes. I guess thinking out loud the downside is its harder to charge up the power source since I only have a 12v car charger to charge it with!!

It wouldn't surprise me if 24V is more efficient. Lower current often improves efficiency. Assuming you have a PSU at home, use the iCharger to charge the 24V battery bank. Let us know if you do test it with Wattsup.

Fred

have had my first problem with the charger, may not even be the charger. I have 6 lipos and 5 of them charge just fine but one wont charge. I plug it in and try to balance charge it. It returns an error message that the balance connector is not connected but I can determine the IR of the pack and measure the voltages of each pack using the charger. It just wont balance charge. I have the 106B+

Is this a chinese lipo with relatively stiff balancing wires? You may have an intermittent fault. The wire often breaks where it is soldered to the cell.

Originally Posted by natterjak

One of my 208Bs with version 3.10 firmware is now refusing to charge anything, it shows "connection breakdown" when trying to start the charge. Even power cycling the charger doesn't work.

The same packs connected to my other 208B with 3.09 firmware work fine, however the 208B running 3.10 has previously worked fine. Not sure why it's now not working.

What should I do to fix it?

Maybe I overlooked a response to the above but in the absence of any advise I've tried upgrading to 3.11 firmware but the issue is still the same. When I try to charge anything I get "connection breakdown". I also noticed that instead of the usual small "pop" sound when you plug the lipo in, there is no sound, so I speculate that something has failed open circuit.

I think I'm going to have to go through the pain of Hobbyking's warranty replacement procedure again but Junsi can you maybe suggest anything else that I could do myself?

I also noticed that instead of the usual small "pop" sound when you plug the lipo in, there is no sound

Perhaps you have not noticed this info:



Post #1 near bottom

Connection Sequence

According to our engineer, the main charging port and the balance port has reversed polarity protection respectively.

If the balancing connector has correct polarity, and then connect the main charging port, there is no problem; but if balancing connector has reversed polarity, and then connect the main charging port, it will burn.

Recommended connecting way:

1. Connect iCharger's input power supply, and turn on it.
2. Connect Li batteries' balance port
3. Connect the main charging port's positive pole to cells' positive pole, and then connect negative pole to cells' negative pole (this will avoid striking fire while connecting Li cells).
4. Start charging and discharging...
5. After finishing charging and discharging, pls disconnect the cell and charger, and then turn off the charger's power supply.

Thank you Charles. I had noticed that but as it is a recommendation rather than required connection sequence I've continued in my normal modus operandi which is to connect main leads first. I've adopted this as my normal practice as I often charge lipos in parallel and have found that the brief current rush which can briefly flow between lipos connected in parallel is better handled by the main leads than the balance leads, due to their greater current handling capacity.

In any case, I've just tried connecting the battery in the recommended sequence and it does not solve my issue.