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Apr 26, 2008, 09:00 PM
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Sounds like your doing it according to Hoyle. My mini rubber eventually broke too, but not till I had about 12 flights on it, some with 1200 winds. It finally broke right after I got some nicks in the rubber. Not sure how they got there, but that's probably why mine finally broke.

erich
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Apr 27, 2008, 02:13 AM
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Plugged in struts to check for prop clearance. The struts were about 1/2" to short. So had to remake 2 longer struts. Don't know if I measured wrong or the plan is off. After making longer struts, added the wheels.

Glued a short piece of .015 wire to end of struts, with about a 120 deg bend to take the wheels. Added a small washer to wire then wheel, followed by another washer clipped off end of wire to leave 1/8" and added small dab of ambroid to lock on wheels.

erich
Apr 28, 2008, 05:41 AM
more balsa please!
dcloin's Avatar
No work started yet. I was reading in Ron's book about the no non cents penny plane. He mentioned that an article about the plane was in the June 1977 issue of Model Aviaiton. So.....I had to go find that and read the artilce. I'm guessing you are an AMA member and have access to the back issues, but if you want I'll send you the article. I guess I should post it here for others anyway. Maybe I'll start tongiht. I guess I'll just build the slowpoke since I already have it. I could build a porp for it, but fiugre that then it would be really tail heavy.

Darvin
Apr 28, 2008, 06:15 PM
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Not if you build a heavy prop.

Would love to see that article. Used to be an AMA member, but finances being what they are, have not re-uped for the last 2 years. Have also started work on the No non-cents pp. Will post some photos of it, soon as I get finished with the Columbia postings.

The slowpoke looks like a good 2nd plane. If you do make your own prop, you could, check for the balance point before mounting the tubes, like on the mini.

erich
Apr 28, 2008, 07:55 PM
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Spent some time using a nail file to round off the longerons, uprights and diagonals. Ron's book says, that this strengthens, or at least stiffens the fuselage. Believe he has something there. The fuselage definitely seems to be much stiffer now, then before all the corners were rounded. Either that or I've been psyched, to believe it. Was a time consuming job, sanding all the corners and not breaking the smaller sizes of balsa. Even if the stiffness is only in my head, some weight was saved, about .2 grams.

Plugged in the wheels, to see how she looks. Just a little odd with the long struts. Fuselage is pretty much done. So...finally.. time to start covering fuselage. Can't spray it with the 3M 77. So will spray some of the 77 into a small cup and brush it to onto one side of the fuselage, at a time.

erich
Apr 29, 2008, 11:53 AM
more balsa please!
dcloin's Avatar
erich,

Looks like the Columbia is coming along. I have'nt gotten any building done for a few days. I think I'll be able to start tonight. I think I'll go with the Slow Poke. I was going to build the no non cents, but don't have any indoor wood other than the small amount in the kit for the slowpoke and the ezb that I have purchased from A2Z. I may do like you said and try to build the prop. I like the idea of building it all myself. I have the article printed, and am going to try to find a way to scan it so I can send it. I don't have a scanner here, but maybe the one at work if I can figure it out. If not, I'd be happy to stick it in the mail. I'll try to scan first and if that does'nt work I'll get your address. Hopefully toinght I'll be posting the first pictures of the slowstick.

Darvin
Apr 29, 2008, 04:44 PM
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At one of the flyins I went to, a guy had what looked like a pp, but with a plastic prop. It flew OK but didn't stay up very long, cause the prop turned so fast, so the rubber unwound too quickly. It also flew somewhat fast. We put one of my extra wood props on his plane (tied and glued a Harlan bearing from one of my busted planes, on his plane). His, pp, then stayed up twice as long and flew much slower. The plane also climbed higher, plus, took a longer time in getting that high. The bigger wooden prop turned much slower, and at the same time had more power (as far as I could tell anyway). That's why I lean towards the made wooden ones over the plastic. Either way good luck in the build.

erich
Apr 29, 2008, 10:22 PM
more balsa please!
dcloin's Avatar
I've started the Slowpoke. After reading the package I can see that it is not a penny plane. It is a 2 penny plane. Weighing in at 6.5g. It comes with condenser paper for covering. Also has pre-cut ribs. Makes the job go a lot faster, but seems like cheating. I'll probably try to build the prop myself. I have some prop wood left over from the mini that may work. It comes with a couple extra ribs which is good. I broke one rib when trying to sand it to size. The ribs are probably much larger than needed, but I didn't try to sand them any. Tomorrow with any luck I'll complete the wing.

Darvin
Apr 29, 2008, 10:59 PM
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I built at least one plane using the pre-cut ribs. They are nice and accurate, but heavy. So I did some sanding before cutting them loose, till they were half as thick. Saved er...ah..... half the weight, but were still plenty strong. Reading the cover for the Slowpoke, sounds like an indoor / outdoor plane. Should be fun on a somewhat windless day.

erich
Apr 30, 2008, 09:36 PM
more balsa please!
dcloin's Avatar
erich,

I can't find a scanner that I can use to get the article. But I would be happy to place the No Non Cents article in the mail if you want to PM me an address. Would be a pleasure and the least I could do for all the advice you have given to me.

I've started on the wing tonight, but did'nt get much done. I have the frame and 2 ribs installed. I spent a little time tonight doing some RC flying. Have to keep up my skills. But I'll be back to the wing tomorrow.

Darvin
May 01, 2008, 04:02 AM
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Started covering fuselage. Did it pretty much the way had planned. Sprayed the 3m 77 into a small specimen cup (unused). Had to re-spray one time to keep glue from getting to thick, brushed onto bottom as fast as I could. Took about 3 minutes. Although the glue starts getting a little thick, it really doesn't set up for maybe a half hour or so. The main concern was getting it brushed on before it thickened, at which point the glue went on in globs. Wiped the globs off with tissue and re-sprayed into cup, which added more solvent, and kept the the glue from clumping up again. Had tried acetone, although it did act as a solvent, it also turned the glue a milky color and a consistency that didn't look right.

So... bottoms done and trimmed using a new razor. Came out the way I had hoped, no wrinkles, taut but not to taut.

erich
May 01, 2008, 06:14 AM
more balsa please!
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The bottom looks great. Nice job getting it on without wrinkles. So, is the whole plane going to be blue? Or do you have something different planned for the wing?

Darvin
May 01, 2008, 06:18 PM
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Thanks. What's the final color gonna be??...... You just gotta wait and see. Actually haven't totally made up my mind on that.

Probably should mention, before adding the tissue, sprayed it and let it dry 3 times, with water. To preshrink it. This crinkles the tissue a little, but also (imo) helps to keep it from wrinkling while gluing on. After tissue is dry I ironed it with a sealing iron. This smoothes it out quite a bit, but not totally. The glue doesn't set for quite a while, so the tissue can be repostioned to some extent. At any rate it went on pretty easily.

erich
Last edited by erich; May 01, 2008 at 07:43 PM.
May 01, 2008, 06:33 PM
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Another way to keep the tissue relaxed is to roll it up into a ball, really tight and then carefully open it up and smooth it out. I tried ironing it after crumpling once but it didn't seem to make much difference. The fibers get bent and broken but the tissue maintains its integrity pretty much and it works real well.

Try it with a large scrap.
May 01, 2008, 07:51 PM
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Assume you mean to roll tissue up AFTER it has been pre shrunk. Will give it a try to see how it looks compared to the ironing. Re-wrote post 313. Had forgot to mention, that I ironed the tissue after shrinking, which smoothed it out quite a bit, leaving a slightly crinkled look. The water shrinking really wrinkles it up, so the ironing really seems to help there.

erich


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