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Mar 21, 2008, 08:44 PM
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One side is pretty much done. Just need to add the rear motor peg holder. The plans call for using 1/32" sheet. Chickend out again, and used 1/16" medium balsa. Glued it in with elmers. Now just need to make the other side. Better make sure, to make a right and left. Would hate to end up with 2 lefts.

erich
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Mar 22, 2008, 03:29 PM
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Finished the second side. Had intended to build it over the first as suggested. But just built it over the same plans (both sides being the same). Probably a mistake, as it's almost impossible to make 2 sides exactly the same, that way. Sometimes ya just gotta live on the wild side. At any rate both sides are framed.

erich
Mar 23, 2008, 05:05 AM
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Have put fuselage aside for awhile. Going to get the smaller flying surfaces done. Starting with rudder. Using 1/32 sq. stock to frame. Made cardboard form to get curved outline of this rudder. Trying to use less glue to keep weight down, especially near the tail end of plane. The bending is going faster now that I've had a bit of practice at it.

erich
Mar 23, 2008, 10:41 PM
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Used the same wood for stab. It being a little bigger then fin, seems real flimsy. Am afraid just touching it, might break it. Aught to be fun trying to cover this stab with tissue. Probably should just use mylar.

erich
Mar 24, 2008, 08:05 AM
more balsa please!
dcloin's Avatar
erich,

It's looking good. I can almost see you hovering over those pieces like a surgeon trying to make sure nothing gets broke. Were the gussets called for, or did you just add them?

I've been out of town for the Holiday. I'm expecting to start building in about 3 days. I've got to get things packed up and ready to leave. Work is sending me away for a few months. So, I'm getting my big box, loading it with balsa and my building board and off to the hotel. I can imagine what the cleaning staff will think when they see the desk covered with sticks of wook. I better get me one of those "do not touch" signs.

Keep it up,
Darvin
Mar 24, 2008, 09:27 AM
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The gussets were on the plans. I usually stick to them. At least the first time on something.

That's a great idea, building in a hotel room. You can show em what it is your doing, by flying it in the dining room. Aughta make a few heads duck..good luck.

erich
Mar 24, 2008, 04:03 PM
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Between building sessions on this cabin model, managed to put together another ministick. Finally found a way to keep the flying weight, down. Leave OFF the prop and motor. Hallelujah, I see the light. Have been building planes without motors for a long time, called RC gliders. Sooo...why not an indoor glider. With no prop or rear hook, the mini builds fast. Put this thing together in a day. Mostly spent waiting for glue to set. Got the wieght (with nose ballast) down to .5 grams. For me that's like winning a Nobel. Since this plane will never be in any contest, increased ws by 1" and lowered dihedral by 1/2", made stab 1/8" wider, and moved wing 1/4" back on fuselage. Needed 3 lead shot pellets, wraped in tissue and ambroid to balance at location shown on plans. The thing flies great, in the house. Was able to get it to make one complete circle in the living room. After about 30 launches, got in 2 flights withoug hitting something on the way around. The things pretty rugged too, never broke a thing.

erich
Mar 24, 2008, 07:46 PM
more balsa please!
dcloin's Avatar
erich,

Good looking glider. I'm going to start with the "Dart" in Ron's book. Then I have the mini's to build. I like the look of them a lot. I'm sure the high wing helps performance also. Maybe I can make laps around the hotel room. I'm so easily entertained.

Darvin
Mar 24, 2008, 09:07 PM
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Yea.... the dart is a real good flier. It's the first one I built too. Used printer paper for the wings. Couldn't bring myself to cut up Ron's book. With the trim tabs you can pretty much get the glider to do what you want. Needs a bit more flying room, though, it's no where near as light as a mini. Been playing catch with the mini-glider, while sitting at the PC table. Got it trimmed to make about an 8'-10' dia circle, which works out good, since the room is only 12' wide.

erich
Mar 25, 2008, 07:18 AM
more balsa please!
dcloin's Avatar
You must be quick. Launch, grab camera, take picture, set camera down, catch plane.

Darvin
Mar 25, 2008, 11:55 AM
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Darvin

Have been keeping up with my ninja studies.

One more thing on this mini glider thing, before getting back to the manhattan project. Was checking to see if the wing of my first ministick, would fit on this one, it does. The old wing looked kinda bulky compared to this new one. Weighed it, and found the wing alone weighed .5 gram, compared to the total weight of new mini_glider (.5 gr). On checking out the old wing more carefully, found I had used the wood intended for (1/16"sq) the prop spar, and rear motor stick, to make the LE and TE. Then since I used 1/16" thick stock for LE and TE, had to make the ribs 1/16" deep, to match. This in turn lead me to make the wing posts, sturdier then normally needed. While building the first mini, the 1/16" seemed right for wing LE & TE, now having used lighter wood for the mini glider, can see that was a big mistake. Especially after seeing this newer glider, bounce off of everything, instead of breaking. Put the old wing on new mini, it flew rock steady, but with a glide slope twice as steep as the newer and ligher one. Am again, finding, that building light, while a little harder, can be done. Just got to plan the moves a little better, and go a little slower. Using less glue and real sharp blades, also helps. Hey... I may yet get an ezb under a gram.

erich
Mar 25, 2008, 01:28 PM
more balsa please!
dcloin's Avatar
I can't wait to get strated. I'm tired of reading about you having all the fun. I'll be sure to post pictures along the way. I'm planning on getting a different scale to weight my work with. I currently have a scale that weighs up to 50 lbs. But at the lower weight, it just sort of sits there. I'm thinking I need something intended for smaller items. What are you using? I have some balsa stock all packed up and will be having to cut my own sticks I guess. Except for the kits of course. I have a cheap balsa stripper, I think it is made by master airscrew. I'll give it a try or just use a straight edge and razor blade. That seems to work fine for me.

Keep it up.

Darvin
Mar 25, 2008, 02:55 PM
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The scale I got goes to 35 oz. (1000grams) and is supposedly accurate to .1 gram. It's not really accurate enough for this kinda building. I have no way of weighing individual pieces of wood. Been going by feel mostly. If I could I'd get a scale that would at least be accurate to .01 gr. Think I paid about 60.00 for this scale, up to now used it mostly for RC stuff, for which it's perfect. The scale is an, Ashiba mp-1000. Been just using a razor and straightedge to make sticks. Don't mind cutting most of the stuff myself. But trying to accurately cut 1/32" sq sticks is pretty tough, with that method. At least for me. Been using store bought sticks from A2Z on the last few planes. Things glue up a lot better when using truely square sticks. The ones I'm able to cut, look more like parallellograms, or is it a rhombus.

erich
Mar 25, 2008, 07:01 PM
Flying Models Plans
Here are some scales that may help you out. I use #3 for the most critical light work. Actually, I made a new version a while back with magnetic damping, but it is functionally the same as the one detailed here.

Thayer

http://www.gryffinaero.com/models/ff...es/scales.html
Mar 25, 2008, 08:13 PM
more balsa please!
dcloin's Avatar
Thayer,

Thanks for sharing the info about your scales. I have Ron's book and could attempt to build one, but really doubt that I will right now. I'll probably just try to order one from somewhere. I like the idea of one to carry to the hobby store to weigh the wood.

Darvin


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