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Feb 17, 2008, 02:44 AM
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glucoseboy's Avatar
OK, I decided to go ahead and use the extensions that came with the Victor. I pulled the pins out of the servo plug and connected them to the extensions (with solder). I than shrink wrapped each individual wire and wrapped the bundle with tape.

The instructions had me mounting the servos in to the aileron pockets before connecting the extensions. I think this is a mistake as it would make connecting the extensions that much harder to do with a wing tip on the bench.
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Feb 17, 2008, 02:51 AM
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glucoseboy's Avatar
Pullskinner: Thanks for the tips. I've read previously that the wing joiners are a little weak. I was thinking about replacing them outright with equivalent carbon fiber strips. The instructions do recommend using epoxy to affix the servo covers. As your experience indicated, it's probably not a good idea.

I also spent a lot of time test-placing the servo in the wells and seeing if the servo arm movement interacted with the servo well or the cover. Also, instead of using servo tape, I'll wrap my servos and then epoxy them into the wells.

OK newbie question: For spoilerons on the Victor, to the ailerons move up or down?
Feb 17, 2008, 07:21 AM
I'd rather be Flying
davecee's Avatar
While I don't have this plane, I do have a way that I attach my servo covers. For a rectangular cover I use scotch transparent tape. I use two strips fore and aft and then a transverse strip accross the front. I don't place any tape across the back. Just check once in a while to see that the edges are still stuck down well and replace as necessary. Super easy to get to the servo.
Dave
Feb 17, 2008, 09:50 AM
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Flaps down; Spoilerons up. You need the plywood wing joiner to help establish the proper dihedral angle, so use it with the CF strips, one in front of the joiner, and one behind. Davecee has a nifty idea about using tape for the servo cover, gonna try that sometime.

Pullskinner
Last edited by Pullskinner; Feb 17, 2008 at 09:57 AM.
Feb 17, 2008, 01:07 PM
The frigin Catalina wine mixer
flightmare's Avatar
as far as Flaps or Spoilers go,I had both mixed in,but I found the the Flaps not necessary,just spilerons for landing..When setup properly with a little down elevator mixed in,the Victor just floats down like a feather,you hardly need any area to set her down..
For fastening the servo's,I use good ol "Goop".Applied to both surfaces,and allowed to set up for 5 mins or so.It is a quick and secure bond that is very hard to break.If you lay a foot long piece of dental floss under the servo,you can remove the servo with a heat gun,and a firm sawing motion with the floss to work it loose.It works well.

Gluecose boy,when you are fishing the servo leads through the wing, a back and forth motion will help getting it past the ribs..I also fished the leads through both wings before I epoxied the outer sections to the inner,just in case the cured epoxy chokes off the passage.
Feb 18, 2008, 09:28 PM
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glucoseboy's Avatar
OK, my next gripe about this kit: the stock aileron control rods have z-bends on both ends. Since the aileron servos are mounted on their sides, once you've mounted everything, you are stuck, no further mechanical adjustments are possible.

I had some Stryker control rods around, so I used them for the aileron control rods.
Feb 18, 2008, 09:34 PM
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glucoseboy's Avatar
I spent a lot of time on was programming my radio for spoilerons and then placing the servos in the well with the arms to make sure the motion is correct and that the arms don't hit anything.

I decided to follow the advice I've received in this thread and mount the servos using goop. The tip to use a vacuum vacuum to pull the thread through the channel to fish the servo wire through is right on! I did need to add a bit of tape to the end of the string to increase the pull from the vacuum.

Here is a shot of the servos installed.
Feb 18, 2008, 09:36 PM
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glucoseboy's Avatar
Oh, one more thing: One of the new tools I picked up for this build was a small hand drill. It was the perfect thing to enlarge the holes in the servo arms and control horns to fit the new control rods.

Here's a shot of the original holes, and the new enlarged ones.
Feb 18, 2008, 10:44 PM
Not your average DiggsyBear
Diggs's Avatar
Hand drills are a life saver. Another really good tool is called a canopy reamer. I use that thing for all kinds of stuff. Especially when I don't want to take the dremel to it.
http://www.rcplanet.com/Dubro_Body_R..._p/dub2330.htm

Diggs
Feb 21, 2008, 01:13 AM
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glucoseboy's Avatar
I picked up some 3/8" carbon fiber strips to go in front and behind the wing joiner. While laying them out, it finally dawned on me why I couldn't just replace the wing joiner with a carbon fiber strip. To my casual inspection the wing joiner was just a simple piece of ply, but behold, there's a slight bend to set the angle of the wing tips. . I know pullskinner mentioned that it sets the dihedral previously but I didn't really comprehend how it actually set it.

Unfortunately, I was not able to get the CF strips positioned properly. The slot for the joiner extends into the wing and I couldn't remove enough material to make enough room for the CF strips to fit.

So, I went ahead and used the joiners on its own with a lot of epoxy. I'm thinking I will reinforce the joint with some packing tape along the joint seam later.

Pulling the servo wire through the channel was a little tricky. I did a dry run pulling the wire and bringing the wing tip and the joiner together (sans epoxy) and the fishing line snapped. So I was a little worried when I did it for real with the epoxy. Of course, using 30-Minute epoxy, I would have had plenty of time to fish the wire out and repeat, but it would have been a little messy (I'm sure I would have gotten stray epoxy on the wing).

One down, one more to go!
Feb 21, 2008, 05:57 PM
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LittleG's Avatar
I've been eyeing this e-glider on epyaya.com for a few days now and this build log just pushed me over the edge to get one... It is a sweet-looking plane... I'll definitely be monitoring your build log of this plane since I'll be getting mine soon in the mail...

LittleG
Last edited by LittleG; Feb 25, 2008 at 04:46 AM.
Feb 21, 2008, 11:16 PM
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glucoseboy's Avatar
Thanks for the post LIttleG. Glad to hear I've helped you spend some $$$.

I finished assembling the wing today and epoxied the stabilizer.

I've been messing around more and more with the radio, trying to get a handle on the travels and throws. Question: when I deploy spoilerons, what kind of elevator should I mix in? What behaviour should I see? will the victor nose down, nose up?, just sink down??
Feb 22, 2008, 01:02 AM
Registered User
Spoilerons make the nosepitch down, how much pitch depends on how much throw you dial in. I just set 30% with no elevator mix and just use elevator with my thumb normally. The plane will slow down, the nose will pitch down slightly, and you instinctively catch it with elevator, it levels out, and descends at a normal angle. You will have reduced aileron authority, so only deploy spoilerons when you're lined up on final. Fly it all the way down. I recommend you make a couple of practice final approaches to get used to the feel of spoilerons. Rudder is weak on this model, but it does help if you can use rudder on final along with ailerons.
Good Luck
Pullskinner
Feb 22, 2008, 03:06 AM
The frigin Catalina wine mixer
flightmare's Avatar
Hmm,My spoilerons caused the nose to pitch up when deployed. Anyway, I had a very small area to set my Victor down,so I set my spoilerons to all the "up" I could get out of them,even with 45%,I only needed about 1/8-3/16 of down elevator to get her to level out.
Feb 22, 2008, 07:15 PM
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LittleG's Avatar
Have to agree with flightmare about the nose pitching up when the spoileron is activated.
Quote:
Originally Posted by flightmare
Hmm,My spoilerons caused the nose to pitch up when deployed. Anyway, I had a very small area to set my Victor down,so I set my spoilerons to all the "up" I could get out of them,even with 45%,I only needed about 1/8-3/16 of down elevator to get her to level out.


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