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Old Aug 23, 2012, 08:28 PM
Darthwonga is offline
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May the Farce be with you
As requested, here's a handful of photos of my Sundowner with the lights on. They're running off a separate 4.8V NiMH pack under the battery tray at the moment, might install a UBEC for them and run them off the flight pack. Draw too much current to run them off the receiver's UBEC.

Haven't managed to get any pics of it in flight yet, being the pilot and the photographer at the same time is a bit tricky!

Cheers,

Oliver
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 08:37 PM
brushless55 is offline
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Very very cool!
Old Aug 23, 2012, 08:51 PM
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That's awesome Oliver. Thanks for sharing. I was poking around on web and checked out their setup - its actually pretty affordable, which is nice.
Thx again,
Josh

Brushless, you might try posting your question in the battery forum - much higher chance of finding other Nano users if you broaden your reader base.
https://www.rcgroups.com/batteries-and-chargers-129/
Best,
J
Old Aug 23, 2012, 08:52 PM
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Brushless why don't you try the Dinogy packs. There 65C and have a warranty but I think you already know that. Some of the EF-1 pylon racers ( I'm also the sponsored battery for that class ) are using them and I'm getting great feed back from them. I don't think you will find a better battery for the price. Check them out at performancerclipos.com

Mark
Old Aug 24, 2012, 10:51 AM
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Cool work Wonga!

I would keep your setup as it sits. Personally I do not like to power my lights off of flight or receiver batteries- If at all possible, carry the extra weight of a separate battery.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 08:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Darthwonga View Post

I'm using a Scorpion HK3-4025 550kV Motor running an APC 11x14 prop on a pair of 6S 2650 Turnigy Nanotech 45/90C packs in parallel.

Oliver
Hi Oliver, could you post a pic of your motor with the mount please ?

I've got a HK4025-740 in my Pulse XT-40 (5s - 1200W setup, a little one compared to those in this thread... but very nice anyway ) , I had to reverse the shaft and cut the excessive length of it, i am curious to see how you proceeded with yours.

Thanks

Phil
Old Aug 25, 2012, 11:35 AM
Darthwonga is offline
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May the Farce be with you
This is how I've mounted the HK3-4025. I machined it out of aluminium myself, didn't look very practical to reverse the shaft, I guess because the motor is meant to go in a big heli. I've added washers to some of the stand-offs to tune the down and right thrust to get it flying straight at full throttle. Probably a bit industrial!

Cheers,

Oliver
Old Aug 25, 2012, 11:56 AM
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Great job !
I suppose this mount handles the huge amount of power rather well, without bending, otherwise the rotor may touch the mount, as there is very few space left between the two !

Heli motors can do the job on airplanes, for sure !
But I keep asking myself what stress may damage bearings most on these particular kind of heli motors. Heavy 3D heli flying, or big 12 inch prop on a airplane ?

Phil
Last edited by FunQBass; Aug 25, 2012 at 12:04 PM.
Old Aug 25, 2012, 01:28 PM
Steve C is offline
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The heli gears put side load on the shaft. I would think that wears the bearing out before a well balanced prop would.
Old Aug 25, 2012, 02:23 PM
Darthwonga is offline
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May the Farce be with you
There is certainly no give in the mount, the firewall will give way well before the alloy bends. The mount is such a tight fit to get the motor right to the end of the cowl - I didn't want a lot of overhang or a long prop adapter that could waggle around! There is about 1mm of clearance on each of the four struts - I milled flats on them to clear the motor bell.

Regarding the bearings, I am a little concerned about that - although a heli will put side loads on them, that is exactly what a ball bearing is designed to handle. There is a bit of axial float on the motor, and I don't like the idea of all that prop thrust acting through normal ball bearings - I might open it up and fit a thrust bearing between the bell and the stator if the bearings start complaining.

You can certainly feel the motor torque - got to have an active rudder thumb on the takeoff roll, the tail squirrels around alot, and at one point I had to do a go-around, flicked the throttle wide open and the plane did a quarter roll! Such a steep prop pitch also makes it tricky to accelerate if you let the speed bleed off too much - you really don't get much thrust when the blades are stalled, it usually takes ten seconds or so after takeoff before the model gets up enough speed for the prop to really bite. I'm really going to have to get some video of it in action, I love it! Now, how can I make it faster.... ;-)
Old Aug 27, 2012, 03:09 PM
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Have you done anything to reinforce your firewall/motor box Wonga?

If not, I would be sure to check it every month or two at least. I was lucky enough to see the wood separating before it gave out; most are not that fortunate... This is my second SD 50 and this model has been going for over a year before I noticed that.

Before my maiden, I had soaked the entire firewall/mount with wood glue to sure up the joints and bonds, but I should have gone the extra effort and fg'd as well. It would have saved me some trouble a little later down the road.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 05:21 PM
mattyhawk is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bsbauman View Post
Have you done anything to reinforce your firewall/motor box Wonga?

If not, I would be sure to check it every month or two at least. I was lucky enough to see the wood separating before it gave out; most are not that fortunate... This is my second SD 50 and this model has been going for over a year before I noticed that.

Before my maiden, I had soaked the entire firewall/mount with wood glue to sure up the joints and bonds, but I should have gone the extra effort and fg'd as well. It would have saved me some trouble a little later down the road.
+1

Might consider adding some angle wood to the inside of the box.
Old Aug 27, 2012, 08:09 PM
Darthwonga is offline
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May the Farce be with you
I just checked the motor box and firewall, and it looks nice and solid. I don't know if they've changed how they build it, or if I added it and have forgotten (wouldn't be the first time!), but there is already some triangular hardwood gussets epoxied into the corners of the motor box. I'll keep an eye on it, cheers for the head's up!

Cheers,

Oliver
Old Sep 05, 2012, 09:45 PM
Webmaister is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FunQBass View Post
Hi Oliver, could you post a pic of your motor with the mount please ?

I've got a HK4025-740 in my Pulse XT-40 (5s - 1200W setup, a little one compared to those in this thread... but very nice anyway ) , I had to reverse the shaft and cut the excessive length of it, i am curious to see how you proceeded with yours.

Thanks

Phil
I'm assuming you have to reverse the shaft on all the HK Motors? What about the S motors? If I want to go FAST, is HK with reversing the shaft the way to go?
Old Sep 06, 2012, 04:40 AM
Darthwonga is offline
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May the Farce be with you
I looked at reversing the shaft, but on the Scorpion HK3-4025 at least there is no groove for a retaining C-clip or anything on the shaft to stop the motor bell pulling away from the stator if the shaft was reversed (because it's really a heli motor I guess). So I made up a custom prop adapter and motor mount instead, which has worked fine so far.

I stuck a Replay XD camera on the Sundowner last night and had a couple of flights with it before the light got too poor, I'll post the video once I've had time to clean it up a bit (still getting the hang of the camera settings).

Cheers,

Oliver


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