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Thread OP
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fond this as well, I have propane.....
http://www.eskimo.com/~smallnet/JoeA...lLandGear.html |
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Vacu-form
John, I have a vacuum table that will take a canopy about 42" by 18". Not sure what size your canopy is but if you want to provide details and the material type you;re considering, maybe I can help.
Tony Elliott www.laserflight.com (530) 878-0728 |
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Thread OP
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Hi Ben, 6061 1/4 x 2-1/2. if you imagine a 2-1/2 bar, I need it bent 40 degrees across the bar and 65 degrees down. not just a 90 degree across, and down 60 or so type. opposite on the other side of course, 2 seperate pieces.
hey Tony, Ill try to get hold of you today, but the material is going to have to be relatively thick, .06" or 1.5mm since it does have some load carrying to do. oncy you cut the windows out of a wilga, there is not much left for support. I haven't done too much research, but I think the window material is PETG windshild is 28x 36cm large side windows are 45x30cm small side windows are well inside those sizes. measurents are oversized. |
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0.06 PETG is no issue. My vacuum former can easily pull 1/8" materials. The sizes are fine also. Will be available all day if you want to call.
Tony |
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Thread OP
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fiberglassing sucks
not to mention HARD!!!!! man is it a pita. got the gelcoat on, stabelized it and put on 2 layers today. my calculation for material was WAY OFF!!!! I have way more fiberglass than I need, and not nearly enough epoxy.
I did pull one of the dams back a little to see what the finished surface looks like.....yeah baby!!!!!!! running to the fiberglass place to spend more $$$$$ my wife is going to kill me..... ben, 1/4- 3/8 radius. these parts are the fuse to gearleg (1"dia) attachment points. about 5" long or so in the fuse and 4" or so outside to attach to the gear legs. haven't done the actual measuring yet. coffee break over..... JL |
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Thread OP
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quick update
the first half of the mold has cured for 4 days and has been removed from the parting table. I flipped the work portion of the table over as well. I can now use the parting table to hold the mold flat without twisting during the application of the second half of the mold. when laying up fuses, I will use the table as well to hold everything solidly in place.
there is also a picture of the landing gear progress. I couldn't find a tailwheel that would suit me, so I made my own. the tailwheel is actuated through the round portion of the rear of the fuse, so I needed a longer section over the fg/carbon bracket. I'll make actuating arms as well if I can't find what I need. |
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looks good
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Thread OP
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Hey Craig, sup? I have too far to go to think about $$ . at the same time I have way too much invested to stop. (or I would!)
made more landing gear progress. I still have to drill and tap the upper and lower gear parts onto the tube, otherwise the gear is done (fairing to go of course) Picture 1 tailwheel is satisfactory as well. turned out pretty light. same picture gelcoat is on for the second half of the mold and I am waiting for it to go off so I can stabelize it with the first layer of glass. picture 2+3 JL |
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Thread OP
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first layer of fiberglass is on, carbon/glass/resin putty is the black stuff to reinforce the edges. All of the complex shapes and hard edges are round now which makes the rest of the layers go on faster and easier. my wife took a couple of pictures while I was working. working out airbubbles with various rollers, brushes etc.. patience is all that is required. too bad I don't have any!
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