|
|
|
|
Most of the guys in my club fly Turnigys and love them. I have four of the SK motors and have never had a problem. I have not heard of any loose magnets lately. You can buy two or three Turnigy's for what the other brands charge. I always buy two of each. Happy Flying.
|
|
|
|
||
|
Quote:
In my experience I started to read the feedback thread on that specific motor and many other RCers were reporting loose magnets. |
|
|
||
|
|
|
Yes it did, after a few runs with my Eflite Beaver I heard a grinding noise and realized that I was loosing power...made an emergency landing, examined the motor and found loose magnets.
Then I started to read the feedback threads on the HC site and many other guys were raising this issue. |
|
|
|
|
|
Trinigy motors
I have 6 Trinigy motors and have bought 4 more for friends one did have a bad magnet but all the others (one has been in 4 different planes) all are still working fine I bought one power 32 and crash it the bearing and shaft were done I ended up replacing that motor with a tringity 42-50 so I spent 70.00 on one motor when I could have had 2. Even if I get one bad one I’m still ahead. The E-flite line has weak shafts I have bent many in the 450 -480 class so have my friends never bent a Trinigy?
Just my experence |
|
|
|
||
|
Quote:
I've got 4 ".25" or larger class Turnigy outrunner motors now, and have not yet had a problem, but I too have heard of issues. I make absolutely sure the setscrew(s) holding the bell on the shaft are loctited before spooling the motor up for the first time, as so far none of them I've received had any threadlock compound on them. I know QC can be spotty with these motors. I guess that comes with the price. For me they are worth it. I have a hard time paying AXI prices, despite the fact that I believe they are clearly superior to Turnigy. I've never purchased Eflite or Rimfire motors, because I don't view them as significantly better in quality than the Turnigy motors. That makes the Eflite and Rimfire motors overpriced in my mind. I admit I could be mistaken on that last point, as wyo69cowboy is reporting longer flights with his Power32 than I get with my Turnigy 4250-700, and we're using the same prop and batteries. However, given that I have a sample size of 1 each, I don't have statistically significant results. So, here's a question for everyone: What setup are you using (prop, motor, esc, battery), are you running w/ or w/o floats, what's you're flying style with the plane, and how long can you fly given the above? I'll start: prop: APC 13x6.5 E motor: Turnigy 4250-700 esc: Turnigy Plush 60A pack: Turnigy 3600 mAH 4S 30C floats: No flying style: Cruising around, a few gentle aerobatics, occasional full throttle flying time per pack: 10 - 12 minutes Regards, Bruno |
|
|
||
|
|
|
I just completed my model and will maiden this weekend. everyone on the blog seems to have installed the power 32 or equivalent. I opted for the power 25 with a 3 cell to keep the weight down. Does anyone has any thoughts on what i should expect with the 25? Anything else i should watch for on the maiden?
cheers Joe |
|
|
|
|
|
Thanks for the feedback on brushless motors. I did not try to glue the magnet back on, I bought a power32 instead. For my Kyosho P40 50EP I've decided to invest in a Scorpion motor. That brand has a good reputation and the motors are high performance type, very powerful and you can buy oil for the bearings.
|
|
|
|
||
|
Quote:
|
|
|
||
|
|
|
I've just started building my Beaver, I'm very excited as you can probably imagine! I'm a newcomer to fixed-wing, I've only built and flown helis before this.
I bought a Scorpion 3206-710 motor and a Master Airscrew 3-blade prop, and straight away came up against a problem - the Scorpion has a 5mm shaft and is supplied with a 6mm prop adapter, but the MA prop has a 1/4" bore. All the prop adapters I can find are either for metric shafts & props, or for imperial shafts & props, there don't seem to be any adapters that mount an imperial prop to a metric motor shaft. Does anyone have an answer to this problem? Also, should the MA prop include any adapter colletts? I didn't get any with mine. |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Last edited by brunom15; Jun 10, 2010 at 08:23 AM.
Reason: Typo
|
|
||
|
Quote:
This will fit your needs without prop reaming: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUA39&P=7. 6.25mm = .246 inches. You will also need http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXUA40&P=V if you can't use the prop washer from the adapter that came with the motor. Or, you could try the 5mm prop adapter from http://www.lazertoyz.com. Inexpensive shipping (they'll toss it into the mail for a couple of bucks), and they have good service. You will have to ream out the prop to 5/16 inches. This reamer will do the trick for you: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXEGH7&P=FR if you can't borrow one from someone. For small motors I've used heat shrink tubing to increase the diameter of prop adapters, but I would definitely not recommend that approach on something this large. When you say "adapter collets", do you mean the precision rings a la APC? I don't think MA props (or, for that matter, most props) come with such rings, but then I've never bought a MA prop. Adapter rings appear to be an APC feature that some chinese prop manufacturers have, um, adopted. Note that you still have to ream the prop hole with APC props, unless you're using a prop saver (not feasible for this application) or you're lucky and the 1/4 inch "non precision" hole lines up perfectly with your 1/4 inch precision ring. In general you're expected to ream your prop to the correct diameter for your application. Regards, Bruno |
|
|
Last edited by brunom15; Jun 10, 2010 at 09:38 AM.
Reason: Added prop washer comment
|
|
|
||
|
Quote:
B. |
|
|
||
|
||
|
Quote:
Try searching this thread for "Power 25". You'll find all you need. The only things I have to suggest for maiden are: 1. Don't let it get too slow. It will tip stall. 2. For decent ground handling minimize tail wheel throw relative to rudder throw. I moved my tailwheel pushrod clevis to the innermost hole on the servo arm. Rudder expo also helps. 3. Control surface deflection and CG recommendations in the manual are a good starting point. 4. Take off and land without flaps until you have it trimmed. 5. Apply flaps at lower throttle settings, and slow down the flap actuation speed if you can. This will minimize pitch up. 6. Make sure you are "2 or 3 mistakes high" before testing the flaps for the first time. Let us know how the maiden goes! Regards, Bruno |
|
|
||
Thread Tools | |
Similar Threads | |||||
Category | Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
Discussion | E-Flite Six-Series Brushless?? | finishman2000 | Electric Power Systems | 8 | Jan 25, 2009 06:58 PM |
Sold | E-Flite Six Series 2700KV | Dora Nine | Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W) | 4 | Nov 24, 2006 10:04 AM |
Discussion | E-Flite 'Six Series' for Trex? | JustPlaneChris | Mini Helis | 2 | Oct 30, 2006 05:53 PM |
For Sale | E-Flite Six series 2700KV | Dora Nine | Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W) | 0 | Jul 31, 2006 05:13 PM |
For Sale | E-Flite Six series outrunner 2000Kv NIB | Red | Aircraft - Electric - Power Systems (FS/W) | 0 | May 17, 2006 12:40 PM |