Top Flite 1/7th Scale P-51 ARF Build Log - Page 21 - RC Groups
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Aug 23, 2012, 12:04 AM
Rangers Lead the Way
Just as a reminder to me - assuming I use a Scorpion 4026/16 or Power 90, would a 7S 5000 in the battery tray location result in a tail-heavy build or nose-heavy? What I'm really trying to determine is whether I can run a Eflite 10-15 e-tract as a tail-wheel without needing nose weight if I use the stock battery tray location. I'll be using carbon pushrods with forward-located servos rather than the steel pushrods provided with the ARF.

I've heard this one tends to come out nose-heavy, which I find hard to believe as every warbird build so far has required the batts inside the cowl, ahead of the firewall, to make CG.
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Aug 23, 2012, 01:41 AM
Registered User
I am using a scorpion S4025-12 with a CC Ice100 mounted under the motor mount. As you can see my 6s 5000mah pack (835 grams) is well aft of the hatch to achieve balance. Both mine and a fellow club members TF P-51's are nose heavy without the batts installed!
Aug 23, 2012, 03:17 PM
Registered User
I concur. I'm flying with a 6S 4400 and Rimfire .80 up front and I actually needed some lead in the tail to get it to balance.
Aug 24, 2012, 12:58 PM
Rangers Lead the Way
holy smokes! That's got to be a first for a glo model. You guys have retracting tail wheels?
Aug 28, 2012, 07:28 AM
Registered User
Just the standard tailwheel on mine. Honestly the couple of ounces in the back is really not an issue. This plane flies beautifully and lands at a walk.
Aug 28, 2012, 11:27 AM
Registered User
...
Feb 01, 2013, 12:38 AM
"Fly Low, Fly Fast, Turn Left"
SmokeDogg's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by 172AMD
I am using a scorpion S4025-12 with a CC Ice100 mounted under the motor mount. As you can see my 6s 5000mah pack (835 grams) is well aft of the hatch to achieve balance. Both mine and a fellow club members TF P-51's are nose heavy without the batts installed!
What's the best way to get in there and open up that battery hatch? Any suggestions or tips?

Thanks
Feb 02, 2013, 09:49 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by SmokeDogg
What's the best way to get in there and open up that battery hatch? Any suggestions or tips?

Thanks
I used pins pushed through from the inside to identify the perimeter of the hatch on the outside. Then used my OLFA knife( AB blade) to cut the hatch out. Take your time!
Feb 03, 2013, 11:38 AM
Registered User
Doug Bateman's Avatar
I did similar except i used exacto blade from the inside slid between formers and longerons to cut it out. You have to determine the mating pieces and go between them.
I think i am going to start work again on mine. It's been sitting a while now. I did a "B" conversion so i have to recover and paint.
Feb 06, 2013, 03:04 PM
"Fly Low, Fly Fast, Turn Left"
SmokeDogg's Avatar
I got mine all cut out ok. Wish it would have been done from the factory but I totally get why they didn't... Just glad it is an option..

I ordered up a roll of matching monokote so I can re-cover the hatch and wrap it over the edges to clean it up more. Maybe glue on a little balsa on the ends and lap it all in for a clean smooth edge.
Feb 09, 2013, 01:58 PM
Rangers Lead the Way
Thats how I'll do my next hatch. They just don't look clean without the Kote being wrapped. The trick is to leave a wee bit on the fuse side to wrap as well.

I have 2 of the ARFs and will start the build pretty soon, after my Gee Bee R3. I did test fit a set of Eflite .60-120s with the Hobbyking .120 size Mustang oleos (very nice) and they are about as close to a drop in as you can get. I use the smaller size oleos on my .40 H9 sport mustang and they have been great. Only caveat is 3.0 max wheel size.
Feb 13, 2013, 04:18 AM
"Fly Low, Fly Fast, Turn Left"
SmokeDogg's Avatar
Got a link to them oleos?
Jan 11, 2014, 12:40 PM
Registered User
Doug Bateman's Avatar
What spray can paint is there to match the iron on covering of the T/F 60 arf?
Nov 10, 2015, 09:16 AM
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Razer8811's Avatar
Old thread but hopefully someone can help me. What adapter do I need or what do I need to get in order to be able to screw the stock spinner into the motor shaft when using a Rimfire .80?
Nov 18, 2015, 07:55 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Razer8811
Old thread but hopefully someone can help me. What adapter do I need or what do I need to get in order to be able to screw the stock spinner into the motor shaft when using a Rimfire .80?
I used a rimfire 60 in mine and the prop adapters that came with the ARF worked perfectly.. I dont know for sure but i would have to assume the 80 is the same as the 60


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