1963 Lyman Soft Top Sleeper in Review - Page 3 - RC Groups
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Dec 30, 2007, 01:38 PM
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I must be getting dense in my old age. Step 22 apparently means to bevel the bottom outside edge of PL 1 (L&R) for it's full length to facilitate glueing the next plank. Then steps 25 & 29 talk about beveling 2" of the same edge. Isn't that already done in step 22? If so wouldn't it be easier to sand a 1/8" 45 degree bevel on each plank before it's installed rather than trying to cut it after it's glued in place? Then just do the 2" inside edge of the next plank before it's put on. What am I missing?
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Dec 30, 2007, 03:10 PM
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420TEE- Your not missing anything and you are reading it right for instruction #21 when we tell you to sand the corner of #PL1 at the bottom for an 1/8 the full length of the plank for better gluing of the next plank on a nearly flat run of planks to the turn of the bilge. You also have to take note that the next plank will have to have 2 of the front and back ends of the plank trimmed at a 45 at the lap joint for the transition from lap joint to smooth joint. Check out FIG.B in instruction #36. Also look at instruction #34 to see the transition from lap to smooth joint at the bow.
Dec 30, 2007, 08:25 PM
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tim slocum's Avatar
sand 1/8", cut 45deg at the lap joint.......wow, this is not for beginners is it? Im marveling at the skill and confidence that it takes to start such a demanding project.I am thoroughly enjoying this! Pass me the popcorn.
Dec 30, 2007, 08:42 PM
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Lapstrake is definately not for the first time project but it should be a rewarding challenge! Just to clairify though, Frankg, the process you list above is repeated for each additional plank, yes?

1. bevel plank that is already tacked down along its full length 1/8" @45 degree angle (outboard or top most edge as applicable) where the next plank will be bonded-

2. bevel next plank on each (inboard or bottom most as applicable) edge starting back 2" from the end, gradually so that the lap will blend smoothly at the transom / stem- tack this plank to the preceeding plank

3. bevel plank that is already tacked down along its full length 1/8" @45 degree angle (outboard or top most edge as applicable) where the next plank will be bonded-

repeat, etc., Yes?
Last edited by Aerominded; Dec 30, 2007 at 10:45 PM.
Dec 31, 2007, 05:48 AM
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AEROMINDED- You do not have to bevel all the planks their whole length, only the bottom planks to the turn of the bilge for better gluing and to set the edge of the newly laid plank down against the plank already down. After the turn of the bilge because the sweep of the frames is laying out the planks will automatically start lapping down correctly.
Dec 31, 2007, 12:26 PM
Registered User
Excellent! Thanks!
Jan 01, 2008, 12:03 PM
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The best way to bevel the plank edges I've found is a curved X-Acto carving blade in the larger handle. I don't know the number. Be careful though. That hooked blade is perfect for slicing fingers.
Jan 03, 2008, 12:22 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar

Continuing on with more planking.


At this point its basically more of the same. I have about a dozen planks on and hope to get a couple more done today. Slow going, but moving foreward.

PAT
Jan 03, 2008, 01:07 PM
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Thanks, I'm two planks behind you. Sure is a slow process.
Jan 03, 2008, 01:58 PM
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Hee hee, you are much further along than I am! Must finish current projects that are on the workbench!

Looking good, Pat! 3 boats on the workbench... you have a regular boat factory going there!
Jan 18, 2008, 01:52 PM
Registered User

Please, more on the review!


I hope to see more pix from the Lyman build soon! It's like a black hole has swallowed up the thread!

John
Jan 21, 2008, 09:52 PM
jda
jda
Fossil builder
Please, more on this build. Am holding off on this kit until I could see if the pros could manage it. I used to ride around Lake Erie on one of these when I was 18! Am saving SS checks until I can afford this one! Have built the Herreshof Sailing Dinghy kit (also lapstrake) from Wooden Boat so I think maybe I can manage this one.
Dave
Jan 22, 2008, 03:07 PM
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Pretty please?


Pat, Ed? How's progress? The great black hole appears to have swallowed the info you no doubt have posted.

Seriously, there's a lot of interest by a lot of muddling wannabe's out here awaiting your full reviews of this kit.


John

"Any ship can be a minesweeper once."
Jan 23, 2008, 06:19 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar

Time for an Update


Got 8 more planks glued in place today. The first 2 well smoothly, but at plank #8 things started to get a little weird. The #8 plank has a bit too much curve and won't alighn to all the marks. Plank #9 follows the same curvature as #8, but then when #10 comes on the scene there begins to be a problem.

However, if you know about it you can fix it before it becomes a problem. To avoid the fix I had to make, after #9 is in place, clamp #10 the the edge of #9 and draw a line indicating the path that #10 will follow. When you remove the plank you'll see that 10 doesn't follow the same curve as 9. It's not a big deal if you taper the edge of #9 to the path that #10 will follow. From here, things start to realign themselves, and I'm thinking that after #11 and #12 go in we'll be back on an even keel (so to speak).

The photos will show the whole story more clearly. The last plank to be installed was #10. Now with all this being said, don't panic, things really aren't that bad, and as complex as the plank shapes are I'm really a little surprised that it's no worse then it's been so far. Overall, the fit has really been pretty good. The secret to success is to plan ahead and check the alignment before the bevels are trimmed into the planks and you'll be in good shape.

PAT
Last edited by P. Tritle; Jan 23, 2008 at 06:27 PM.
Jan 23, 2008, 06:45 PM
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Gravman's Avatar
I agree with you in that the fit really is pretty good all things considered. Lapping boat planks will always be a "trim to fit" kind of thing. You are doing a very nice job.
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