Originally Posted by asw20rr

After my separated swash mishap I found that my mainshaft had such burrs created by the pins wobbling in the somewhat too big holes that I couldn't get the shaft out of the bearings and ended up cutting it to get it out.

I decided to go a different direction on a replacement shaft and see if I could end up with something less sloppy and more durable, so I got a hardened HDX300 main shaft and am going to take it down to a local machine shop tomorrow to shorten it and get some holes drilled in it (pro bono I hope ). Since I cut my old shaft I can't get an accurate measurement of its length. Can someone measure their stock shaft for me please?

- Doug

Doug,
I've used this one http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...l-shaft/Detail I don't bother cutting it down...the difference below auto-rotation collar is maybe 4-6mm. I flat spot it also. The top hole is perfect. The only difference is it doesn't have a hole for holding main gear in place. I don't need one as I'm using the microheli main gear w/auto-rotation and hdx300 belt pulley w/set screws.

-Dave

Originally Posted by murdnunoc

Actual measurement is 2.95mm or .116 in. Sold as 3mm to fit inside 3mm bearing.
EDIT: Wow, that looked like an attempted one-up. Sorry, OnGuard, you posted while I was measuring and typing.

lol

I put the calipers on it and get the same as you.

Hi all,

Running a telebee on my Compy fp. Had a very minor crash last night right before quitting flying. Nothing broke. Today, trying to flying it and the heli will turn CCW upon spooling up. After adjusting the position of the tail servo and repositioning the servo arm, I realize that the tail servo has no travel at all when applying full left rudder. Right rudder has more then normal travel when applying in full. This is in HH mode. Switching to Rate mode, the left rudder servo travel is better, but still quite a bit less than right travel. Then I unplug the servo from the gyro and plug it directly to the receiver (AR6100). Travel left and right are equal.

Is the gyro fried? I did not change any of the program on my DX7.

The travel adjustment of the RUDD left/right 125%, Gear +64%, -45%

Your input is appreciated.

- Thomas -

Originally Posted by lonelasso

Doug,
I've used this one http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...l-shaft/Detail I don't bother cutting it down...the difference below auto-rotation collar is maybe 4-6mm. I flat spot it also. The top hole is perfect. The only difference is it doesn't have a hole for holding main gear in place. I don't need one as I'm using the microheli main gear w/auto-rotation and hdx300 belt pulley w/set screws.

-Dave

Hi Dave,

That looks like the same shaft I got. BTW its a little cheaper from helidirect...

I think I'll go ahead and cut it down since it is 25mm longer. I'd think that much extra mast height would start to affect your cyclic response. I have a machine shop as a tennant so I think I can get it done right as a favor

- Doug

Originally Posted by whto

Hi all,

Running a telebee on my Compy fp. Had a very minor crash last night right before quitting flying. Nothing broke. Today, trying to flying it and the heli will turn CCW upon spooling up. After adjusting the position of the tail servo and repositioning the servo arm, I realize that the tail servo has no travel at all when applying full left rudder. Right rudder has more then normal travel when applying in full. This is in HH mode. Switching to Rate mode, the left rudder servo travel is better, but still quite a bit less than right travel. Then I unplug the servo from the gyro and plug it directly to the receiver (AR6100). Travel left and right are equal.

Is the gyro fried? I did not change any of the program on my DX7.

The travel adjustment of the RUDD left/right 125%, Gear +64%, -45%

Your input is appreciated.

- Thomas -

I haven't had a Telebee, but from your description it sounds bad

If the gyro wont pass travel thru equally when you are in rate mode, something is definitely wrong with it.

- Doug

Originally Posted by asw20rr

Hi Dave,

That looks like the same shaft I got. BTW its a little cheaper from helidirect...

I think I'll go ahead and cut it down since it is 25mm longer. I'd think that much extra mast height would start to affect your cyclic response. I have a machine shop as a tennant so I think I can get it done right as a favor

- Doug

Thx for the heads up man ! Yeah....always good to have a 'useful' tenant The youtube vid that JPC took....using this shaft Cyclic response is 'jus right' for me !

-Dave

Originally Posted by maarset

So I have been having an issue with my anti rotation guide that sits behind the rotor head is too short on my Compy FP fiber frame.

Maybe 3 mm too short. If I do full forward elevator the swash plate will pop out of the guide.
So either I make a longer one or lower the head a bit. I can't limit the travel of the servo because I don't
have a computer radio. I did some searching around and found that some guys are using a Esky CP2 main shaft.
But I believe they are either drilling a new jesus hole or grinding off about 3 MM of the top of the main shaft.

What I am wondering is if the rotor head sits a little lower with the CP2 main shaft. If it does then I won't have to raise my anti rotation guide. I guess the HBFP main shaft is too short and your blade will hit the tail shaft... Correct?

Is there another main shaft instead of the CP2 that will work? Seems that Esky parts are getting very hard to find and I am down to one HBFP esky Head that I share between the Compy and my HBFP.

Thanks for the idea. I used the servo linkages off the HBFP and lowered my swash plate. Works perfect now. I also solved my tail nose bobbing. I believe it was caused by a tweaked main shaft (which I fixed.). But it also could have been my tail which suddenly threw a tail blade last week. Using the TREX 450 tail now and it works GREAT! Zero binding. The tail grips seem to match up to the compy tail blades better too. Any advantage to using Trex 450 tail blades?

Originally Posted by maarset

The tail grips seem to match up to the compy tail blades better too. Any advantage to using Trex 450 tail blades?

Yep. Trex blades have a little bit more surface area, especially the ones without the swept tips. From my super-calibrated bouncing in my hand test, they feel a little lighter, too.

They are a couple mm longer, though, so tail strikes are easier. I raised the whole heli by about 8mm by installing Blade 400 landing gear and fashioning a short extension for the tail skid.

This morning I took my Compy out to a baseball diamond on the way to work. First time flying the heli in a park. My calculation on my battery time was off so I had to set it down kind of hard at the 7 min mark. Tipped it over and broke the fly bar. (AGAIN!) But boy for it being the first time I flew it in a big space it was awesome. It flew pretty good for my hands shaking. I was kind of nervous. I don't like crashing my compy. I was at the same place last week flying my HBFP and wasn't nervouse at all. I was tossing it all around. I was able to easily fly it in circles. Figure Eights were like childs play. The HDX300 BL motor did all right. I'm sure I'll get more power when I go from a 800MAH 8C 3S lipo to a 1000MAH 10C-15C 3s lipo.

I was having alot of trouble bringing the heli down in elevation. I'd drop the throttle and lose all sorts of stability. I'm thinking this is just the nature of a FP heli.

All and All I am extremely happy with this heli. I had alot of fun with it and can't wait to fly it again.

Originally Posted by maarset

I was having alot of trouble bringing the heli down in elevation. I'd drop the throttle and lose all sorts of stability. I'm thinking this is just the nature of a FP heli.

Indeed it is. Next time, instead of dropping throttle, try just a slight reduction, and make a descending turn, remaining in forward flight. You don't lose as much rotor speed or stability that way.

-Chris

Thanks Chris. Listening to your show now. Man I missed that Heli content. I had no idea James was the Franken Compy dude. Very cool! Great Show!

Thank you! It's good to get back to it. LOL, I totally forgot that James was the Franken Compy dude too.

-Chris

Yah when I go CP with my Compy I'm going to do what Sparx did

Originally Posted by asw20rr

I haven't had a Telebee, but from your description it sounds bad

If the gyro wont pass travel thru equally when you are in rate mode, something is definitely wrong with it.

- Doug

Thanks Doug. That's what I think too. Just to get a '2nd' opinion.

- Thomas -

I picked up some 190mm Trex metal flybars and Trex paddles.
I also got some Blade 400 Landing gear. Makes the compy sit a little taller. Not really doing it anymore but I was touching my tail on the ground everyonce in a while. Taller gear will be better for grass too.

The trex 450 flybar is like 7.5 inches long which might make the cyclic feel slugish.
But they might work well with my M24's cause the M24's spin so fast that the cyclic control is ubber sensitive.

I tried a 11 inch fly bar once on a HBFP and it was a total slug. These 190mm trex flybars might work perfect with the Compy wood blades. I hope.

How would a CommonSenseRC 3s 1000MAH 10c lipo work on a Compy with a HDX300 and wood or M24 blades?
Would I get atleast 10 minutes flight time?