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Old Apr 25, 2008, 12:08 PM
Jimmy Z is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maarset
I just don't get it!
I run my trimmed esky plastic blades on my Compy and I get a wobble bobbing free hover.
No bobbing of the nose.

I then put my compy wooden blades on and I get bobbing. It is pretty much unflyable.

I balanced the wooden blades. They are loose enough to find their sweet spot.

The tips do have some damage and I have epoxyied the ends.

Also now my elevator servo (HS-55) is chattering. Which is a common issue I guess with these servos.

maarset,

I too had the bobbing, using the woodies. The one thing that I noticed is that when the blades were loose enough to move freely, they would find a "sweet spot" that created an angle to rotor head. Whenever the blades were at this angle, I had no vibrations but a very visible bobbing effect. I actually had to tighten the blades up so that they do not move freely. Ever since I have done this, i have had no more bobbing. I have had some minor blades stikes with the blades like this and it has not caused any damage to other parts of the head due to the increased tightness.
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Old Apr 25, 2008, 12:18 PM
whto is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maarset
I just don't get it!
I run my trimmed esky plastic blades on my Compy and I get a wobble bobbing free hover.
No bobbing of the nose.

I then put my compy wooden blades on and I get bobbing. It is pretty much unflyable.

I balanced the wooden blades. They are loose enough to find their sweet spot.

The tips do have some damage and I have epoxyied the ends.

Also now my elevator servo (HS-55) is chattering. Which is a common issue I guess with these servos.
For experimnt, try the wooden blade without the O ring. I've never use any O ring and I have not have a single bobbing.

- Thomas -
Old Apr 25, 2008, 12:59 PM
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Yah it is weird. The stock trimmed esky blades work great. Less stable but no bobbing or wobbleing. Well I'm getting some M-24 blades hopefully today. Not sure how much longer this heli is going to be a FP. I want to go CP soon or do the Franken mod.
Old Apr 25, 2008, 01:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maarset
I want to go CP soon or do the Franken mod.
What is the Franken Mod?
Old Apr 25, 2008, 01:57 PM
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maarset,

The glitching of the tail and the buzzing servo are almost certainly due to the GWS receiver. Every one I ever had glitched continuously. I bet if you try a decent receiver both those problems will go away. It might even help the bobbing and weaving...

Bruce
Old Apr 25, 2008, 03:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kelley
What is the Franken Mod?
This guy stretched a compy so it was more like a 450 heli.
Amazing disk loading

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=808692
Old Apr 25, 2008, 03:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucewillman
maarset,

The glitching of the tail and the buzzing servo are almost certainly due to the GWS receiver. Every one I ever had glitched continuously. I bet if you try a decent receiver both those problems will go away. It might even help the bobbing and weaving...

Bruce
I have a berg I will try. Thanks Bruce
Old Apr 25, 2008, 11:47 PM
KCinNC is online now
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that's gonna leave a scar
maarset, man i wish i could give you some helpfull info !!!
Old Apr 26, 2008, 12:01 AM
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I tried to fly a plane with a GWS RX once... last time that plane flew..
Old Apr 26, 2008, 12:49 AM
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I was hovering inside about a foot up and threw a tail blade. Man it went like a ROCKET!

Can I use a TREX 450 tail?
Control Set HS1175


Tail Holder set HS1176


If I go with the TREX tail do I have to use everything including the tail case?
Can I just use the Control Set that controls the cyclic of the tail blades and the tail holder?
Last edited by maarset; Apr 26, 2008 at 01:08 AM.
Old Apr 26, 2008, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maarset
I was hovering inside about a foot up and threw a tail blade. Man it went like a ROCKET!

Can I use a TREX 450 tail?
Control Set HS1175


Tail Holder set HS1176


If I go with the TREX tail do I have to use everything including the tail case?
They hurt when they ding you in the thumbnail, too.

You'll have to do some modding to use the 1175 and 1176. Those are the SE V1 Trex tail.

The slider/lever combo HS1198 or rotor/slider/lever combo HS1199 will fit with no mods. It only has one control ball instead of the fork at the top of the lever, so it fits on the Compy tail case.
Old Apr 26, 2008, 09:54 AM
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Damn, this heli is determined to live in the workshop. I got my CC10 switched out for the DonsRC 18, and that seems like a nice esc. Easy to program and a nice softstart....

It was gusty yesterday so I gave up after fighting the wind for 3 or 4 minutes. This morning it is only a little breezy so I figured I'd step out in the back yard with the Compy. First flight was very short as it was just the 2nd half of the battery from yesterday, but all seemed good. 2nd flight lasted all of 6 seconds. Right after takeoff I lost cyclic control and immediately drifted into a patio umbrella

My best guess is that the swash separated in flight. Damage = main shaft, central holder, ring pushrod, and the swashplate, and my canopy which I liked the paintjob was completely shattered . Looking at the swashplate quickly I don't even see what was supposed to hold it together??? The top half just slides in and out of the bearing. It this a repairable item (CA?) or would that just be looking for trouble.

Also, I remember in the thread there is a hardened shaft available from HeliDirect. Has that worked out well for people?

- Doug
Old Apr 26, 2008, 11:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw20rr
Looking at the swashplate quickly I don't even see what was supposed to hold it together??? The top half just slides in and out of the bearing. It this a repairable item (CA?) or would that just be looking for trouble.
Yeah, CA that sucker back together! Just a careful, tiny drop of Medium (thin can go all over and into the bearing) between the 2 halves.

I don't know if they were just a press fit to start with, but I had one do the same thing on my HBFP. Holds like a rock, now.

Quote:
Also, I remember in the thread there is a hardened shaft available from HeliDirect. Has that worked out well for people?
If it's one for a HBFP, it will work, although it's shorter and you'll have to trim the swash anti rotation bracket so the flybar doesn't hit it. I like the shorter main shaft, as it brings the blades closer to the fuselage for quicker cyclic (or at least I'm convincing myself I can tell the difference )
Old Apr 26, 2008, 01:45 PM
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Thanks for the tip murd. Ordered the HS1199 from rediheli. Good thing the HBFP is still going. Other wise I would go insane.
Old Apr 26, 2008, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw20rr


Damn, this heli is determined to live in the workshop. I got my CC10 switched out for the DonsRC 18, and that seems like a nice esc. Easy to program and a nice softstart....

It was gusty yesterday so I gave up after fighting the wind for 3 or 4 minutes. This morning it is only a little breezy so I figured I'd step out in the back yard with the Compy. First flight was very short as it was just the 2nd half of the battery from yesterday, but all seemed good. 2nd flight lasted all of 6 seconds. Right after takeoff I lost cyclic control and immediately drifted into a patio umbrella

My best guess is that the swash separated in flight. Damage = main shaft, central holder, ring pushrod, and the swashplate, and my canopy which I liked the paintjob was completely shattered . Looking at the swashplate quickly I don't even see what was supposed to hold it together??? The top half just slides in and out of the bearing. It this a repairable item (CA?) or would that just be looking for trouble.

Also, I remember in the thread there is a hardened shaft available from HeliDirect. Has that worked out well for people?

- Doug
Damn Sorry to hear bout the 'mishap' Doug. I've discovered that if the links are slightly shorter, this puts pressure on the swash (pulls it apart). Best way I've found is hold each side of the swash balls (opposite from each other) and level swash (start with aileron). Now move the swash up and down to find the 'middle'. Note the height and adjust the link to this distance. Do the same for elevator. It's better too have the links a tad long....than short. Ohhh...and mine was acting 'wonky' and couldn't figure out why. Happened to notice the short link from swash to flybar cage was pushed all the way against the cage (slipped off the ball) !! Always best to give EVERYTHING a good look before and after flight.

-Dave


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