Chris-Craft 27' Tripple CP Barrel Back - Page 2 - RC Groups
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Dec 18, 2007, 08:41 PM
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Hey Pat
Looks great !!! I love this boat. Is the ply sheets part of the kit or did you switch them out for the diagnol sub planking?
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Dec 18, 2007, 10:48 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar

Strip Planking the Hull Sides


Been steadily working on getting the strip planking done. It's not hard, just takes time. The first two bottom planks runn edge to edge the full length of the hull so there's nothing special going on here.
Dec 18, 2007, 10:51 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar

Laying the 3rd plank


The third plank up won't make the curve, so the front is spaced 1/2" above the second plank at the bow, and flows straight into the second plank about 1/4 of the way back. A steeler will be added to fill the gap.
Dec 18, 2007, 11:01 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar

Fitting the Steeler


Fitting a steeler really isn't a big deal, but does need to be worked in slowly, and fitted carefully to avoid an uneven fit, or unsitely gaps that will need to be filled later.

My favorite method for fitting a steeler is as old as boats themselves. Mark reference points on the plank and hull. Then using a divider, find the correct width at each point of reference and transfer that dimension to the plank. Connect the dots and cut away the excess wood. Then carefully fit the plank, sanding as needed to get a snug even fit. Once it fits nicely, it's glued in place with white glue and clamped until dry.
Dec 18, 2007, 11:06 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar

Adding the remaining planks


The remaining planks are added in the same manner as the first two. The top two require much trimming and fitting into the sheer. I might mention too, that the planks are shorter then the hull, so need to be added in forward and aft segments. The joints are staggered to eliminate a built in week point on the hull.

At this point, all the planks are in place, and the gaps filled with spackling paste. Once dry the edges were rough sanded. The next step is to sand the surface and level everything up nice and fair.

PAT
Last edited by P. Tritle; Dec 18, 2007 at 11:41 PM. Reason: Added a Second Photo
Dec 18, 2007, 11:08 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
Jeff, The lite ply bottom sheeting is included in the kit. I'd guess that by doing the light ply/balsa subplanking there's probably 10 or 12 oz. eliminated from the finished weight of the model as compaired to the typical 1/16 ply diagonal planking like is on the Cobra. And that leaves more room for the weight of larger battery packs.

PAT
Last edited by P. Tritle; Dec 18, 2007 at 11:15 PM.
Dec 18, 2007, 11:24 PM
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Starting to look like a boat, Pat!!!

Surprized to see that the sub-planking goes on this one without the hull structure anchored to the workbench... any risk of building in a twist this way or is the substructure pretty rigid?
Dec 18, 2007, 11:39 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
Aero, It is, feels like - progress. The first two planks went on while the assembly was still nailed down, and by then was totally rigid, so was lifted to do the rest. At this point its nice and straight and true.

PAT
Dec 18, 2007, 11:44 PM
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Good deal!
Dec 26, 2007, 08:58 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar

A Good Day's Progress


At this point, the hull sub-planking is finished. Got the bow blocks on and shaped, and the planks sanded and puttied level and fair.
Dec 26, 2007, 09:03 PM
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P. Tritle's Avatar

Sealing the Hull


The inside of the hull was given a coat of West Systems resin to seal the wood and show the leaks between the plans. Interstingly, there was NO seapage between the planks anywhere!

From here it up to the deck sub-structure.

PAT
Dec 27, 2007, 10:29 AM
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tim slocum's Avatar
Pat, what kind/brand of white glue do you use?
Dec 27, 2007, 10:33 AM
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P. Tritle's Avatar
Tim, I'll use any of the "Carpenters" or "Woodworkers" glues available, depends where I buy it. Titebond and Elmer's are the two most common. Having used both over the years I really can't see much of a difference from one to the other.

PAT
Dec 27, 2007, 10:47 AM
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tim slocum's Avatar
Thanks for the quick response, I know that it doesnt have to be watertight because of whats going over it, but, I didnt know white glue was strong enough to hold the bend.Also, why do you wait to put on the last transom piece? Thanks for these build threads, they will be invalueable when I build the CC Commander and the Catalina.
Dec 30, 2007, 11:17 AM
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Bud Faulkner's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by azcaptain

As I recall, one difficulty I had was keeping those early installed interior pieces of mahogany from getting messed up from glue, etc, before finishing them with poly. If I was to do it over, I'd stain and poly these panels before installation. Maybe you've got a better approach????
I'm doing mine before I do anything else....I installed a piece of 1/32" ply to the cockpit sides and my planks will be individual planks per the real boat rather than a sheet of mahogany. Here's a test piece for the forward cockpit at bulkhead 4

Bud
Last edited by Bud Faulkner; Dec 30, 2007 at 07:39 PM.


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