My IOM scratch build... Vanquish - RC Groups
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Nov 30, 2007, 06:49 PM
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My IOM scratch build... Vanquish

I've a couple of sets of plans for hulls, and will take photos along the way if anyone is interested, I can post them here.

I'm looking at Dan Sherman's Vanquish and Anders Wallin's Noux.
Last edited by hew565; Aug 24, 2008 at 06:18 PM. Reason: added boat design
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Dec 01, 2007, 08:33 AM
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nigelpheron's Avatar
if your letting us choose, build the Noux.
Dec 01, 2007, 10:26 AM
Lost in the Sauce
I'm very interested. I'm not sure how someone would do this, so seeing pictures would be great.
Dec 01, 2007, 11:53 PM
Registered User
Another vote for the Noux.
I'm sailing a glass over balsa strip Noux (slightly modified/10% increase in beam) and am very pleased with it.
Would love to see your build.
Dec 03, 2007, 03:33 PM
Registered User

First photos

After a few days of building.

I had already started the Vanquish... I like the slightly wider beam. Another member of the club is building the Noux at the same time, and I will get photos of that one too. I'm planning to user an arm winch and locate it in front of the mast. I'll probably deck step the mast, so I don't have a cavity for water to sit in. I also don't really like the look of the screw on "pots" for the radio RX and batteries, and may just seal a hatch opening with sticky back for the day of sailing. Come to think of it, I may wire a switch and a charge plug and never have to open it up until something breaks!

You guys who are sailing these, any suggestions?

BTW, this is my first IOM. We have a competitive group of Victorias here, and want to move up. We will build about 4-5 IOMs over the winter.

The stations are made from 3/16" foamboard. Very easy to cut, and pin too. And for me they were free. Scraps from my picture frame shop
Dec 03, 2007, 05:16 PM
Lost in the Sauce
How do you cut the balsa into small strips. (i've never scratch built)
Dec 03, 2007, 05:39 PM
Registered User
Vanquish looks great. You're really flying at it.

When you get to fairing try putting a light inside the hull somehow. It'll give you a good read on plank thickness and help you avoid sanding through the planks.

Do some reading WRT deck vs keel stepping. You give up a lot of lateral mast stiffness by deck stepping. I've taken to stuffing foam peanuts into the mast box to limit the amount of water it holds.

My winch servo is ahead of the mast too. It's offset laterally to allow the sail arm to align with the CL of the hull. I offset my battery to maintain lateral balance.

Make sure your chainplate attachment points spread the load over a good area of the hull.

Dec 03, 2007, 05:46 PM
Registered User
Search "balsa stripper".
Dec 03, 2007, 08:30 PM
Registered User
Yep, I started by slicing up 4 sheets of 3/32 balsa into about 1/4" strips. Then, you have to scarf them together to get them at least 1M long (vs 36"). I did the scarfing as I planked the hull. I stagger the joints so they are on different parts of the hull too. As you go around curves, you have to taper the ends of some strips to get them nice and snug against the form. I use CA to glue the edges together. You need to color the edge of one strip and pin it so the edge is lined up with the CL of the hull, and work from the deck up and the keel down. Then you know where the CL is when you mount the fin box.
Dec 03, 2007, 08:34 PM
Registered User
FYI, the Noux is from here: and some of the Vanquish stuff is from here: because Dan Sherman's website is offline for some reason.

New URL for Dan's Vanquish site:
Last edited by hew565; Feb 27, 2010 at 12:47 PM. Reason: added URL
Dec 03, 2007, 08:38 PM
Registered User
Originally Posted by hew565
Yep, I started by slicing up 4 sheets of 3/32 balsa into about 1/4" strips. Then, you have to scarf them together...
Alternately, scarf joint the sheets then strip them.
Dec 04, 2007, 12:01 AM
Registered User
The build is looking good.

I would seriously consider a keel-stepped mast, and some partners at foredeck level together with a mast ram. I have over 6" between my mast base and the deck partners. This, together with the ram (think 505 style) really stiffens up the A rig. Without it, the mast is pretty wobbly.

If water in the mast step well bothers you, just use a sticky back cover with a hole the same size as the mast diameter. I don't bother on mine.

Sign up for the USA IOM forum too.

PM me with any specific questions and I'll try to help. My biggest building mistake? Make sure you mount your keel box THROUGH the hull, rather than up to the hull - it makes alignment and finishing easier.

It great to see another IOM home builder in the US. Relatively few of us build our own here.
Dec 04, 2007, 05:29 AM
Registered User
Congratulations on making a start on a home build IOM. Your project will hopefully encourage many more to build.
I must agree with Just Lurking and keel-step your mast. There is very little water trapped in the mast box about five millelitre, or 5 grams, which is nothing in an all up weight of 4kg. If you have a plug in the foot of the mast, then the mast displaces the majority of the water. As J.L. states, having a mast ram is much better for mast and sail control. It took me quite a while to master its use, but having done so, it's a boon to adjusting sail shape.
I would definitely fit a 'Pot' for the battery and electrics. If you cannot sink the top of the lid into the deck inside a funnel shaped recess, then fit a stainless steel bar/wire between the side tanks at a level above the pot lid. This prevents the control sheets from fouling the lid. No boat, whether a model or a supertanker, is impervious to water. I know, I have sailed with or on both. Electrics are incompatable with water especially salt water. The only way to keep them apart is to seal them in a pot. An IOM does not always 'cruise' gently on the surface. It can be a very wet decked animal.
Any aparture such as the winch control line eye/tube/turning block, whatever, will allow water into the hull. The only way to prevent this is if you use an RMG280 with the drum mounted above the sole of the deck. If you use an arm winch, such as Hitec 5745, then there must be at least one small hole for the cord and maybe another for the take up elastomer. Fit a Pot. Now is the time to decide, before the deck is fitted to the hull.


Dec 04, 2007, 02:53 PM
Registered User
Thanks for the info, I guess I'll be building a mast box/fin box combo! I'm waiting on some fiberglass, or fibreglass as you guys from across the pond call it. I'm looking at one layer of 4 oz/yd2 each side of the balsa core. It should be here in two days. I've read where many builders use 2 layers of 5-6 oz glass, but those do not have the balsa core. And I'm using S-glass over E-glass for the 15% extra strength. J L and Grizz, what did you use? How did your hull weight end up?
Dec 04, 2007, 03:20 PM
Registered User
Hey hew,
Seems to me I used 4 oz then 2.4 oz outside and 2.4 oz inside. 2.4 or 2.8... something like that...E-glass and West 105-206. I made the mistake of doing some sanding as I was strip planking. Just to see what it would look like. Bad plan. The balsa ended up being pretty thin in some spots... 300g sticks in my head for bare hull weight. No decks. Unfortunately I didn't take notes.

I would think you'll be fine with 4oz in and out.
A little extra in the stem, keel/mast box, and chain plate areas wouldn't hurt.

Try and make your mast box such that you've got room to move the rig fore and aft for balance purposes.


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