FP micro heli SRB Quark from HIROBO - Page 17 - RC Groups
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Apr 25, 2008, 04:19 PM
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When I placed the clear packing tape on the tail, I def. lost tail authority. I have to constantly push the tail stick to the right.

Any advice here?

I can nose in hover now, and do slow forward flight. No wrecks yet. This is a very smooth flying heli.


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Apr 25, 2008, 04:56 PM
Registered User
Read through pages 9 and 10 of this thread. I think you might have to balance your blades and increase pitch a bit. Or just don't run the tape on the tail.
Apr 26, 2008, 06:10 PM
Registered User
Anyone know of other canopys which will fit the quark?

I am thinking of changing its look a little bit, so if anyone has any experience with a different canopy let me know.

Apr 26, 2008, 07:28 PM
Dert Farmur
Harv's Avatar
Not a canopy, but I'm >--< this close to ordering all the parts for the XRB 222 fuselage and seeing how it can be mounted to the SRB. Going by the YouTube video it can be definitely be done, but it ain't going to be cheap, and probably not easy either.

Decisions, decisions...
Apr 26, 2008, 08:49 PM
Registered User
A guy from japan said that it has its own airwolf fuse for the srb.
Apr 27, 2008, 03:18 PM
Registered User
Now that I can fly my quark, hover nose, figure 8's etc. Would an upgrade to a blade 400, blade cp, helimax axe, be to much for me?

I found the quark very easy to fly well, can I handle those other heli's now?
or do I still need to go through the step of a honeybee fp?

Also, does anyone know of a good case for the quark, or one that is cut to fit it?

Last edited by dhoff002; Apr 27, 2008 at 04:54 PM.
Apr 27, 2008, 05:09 PM
Registered User
I don't think your ready just yet. Try flying around in circles then come back to right in front of you and bringing it into a hover in all 4 orientations. So lets say you come in first circle bring it in facing you, then do another circle side in left, fly out do a circle side in right, then again nose in. Keep doing that till it is second nature. Then try flying it by the tail and coming into those 4 hover orientations. After you feel comfortable with those change the setting to the more aggressive settings so that the heli will not auto stabilize. Repeat above exercise. You will not need a HBFP because its just more of the same thing without stabilization. Master this stuff and you should be good to go with a CP heli. Just remember after you build your CP have someone check it over and do a test flight, unless your really competent and confident in your building skills.
Apr 27, 2008, 07:49 PM
Registered User
I am pretty sure I have already done what you are describing.

I flew circles, with the heli body sideways the entire time, first the left side then the right side. I flew backward circles with the nose in the entire time. I flown fff, full forward right stick figure 8's.

Let me know if thats not what you mean.

I must have flown 20 packs since I got this little heli.

I guess soon its time to take off the autostabilization system.

Basically you just switch the number 4 switch to on, and then change the flybar postion. Or do you just change the flybar position first, and leave the number 4 switch off?

I guess the number 4 switch, just takes of expo?, so the servos through further? and the flybar setting is the autostabilization? So with the flybar to the advance position it will fly more like one of the cheaper fp helis?

Thanks for your help!

Last edited by dhoff002; Apr 27, 2008 at 08:44 PM.
Apr 27, 2008, 09:05 PM
Registered User
Basically fast forward flights then back into a side in hover. Flying side in a circle doesn't really do much the goal here is to get disoriented and bring it back into the orientation you want. Do that in forward flight then in reverse flight.

I believe if you adjust the flybar per the manual to put it in advanced mode. Not sure about the dipswitch someone else will have to chime in on that one since I do not have one of these yet. I've only read that there are different modes. Once you disable the stabilization, start with hovering tail in, nose in, and side in left and right. then start the training again with flying around and bringing it into various hover orientations. Let us know how you progress.

When you disable the stabilization it will be a whole different ball game. Good luck.
Apr 27, 2008, 09:26 PM
Dert Farmur
Harv's Avatar
After 60 or 70 packs (the last 10 with switch 4 on and the stabilizer moved to center) I figured it was time to fire up the Trex again and took it out for a quick spin with my new and improved skills. Bad idea. After changing my underwear I took great interest in a method I was recently told about to determine (and improve) your proficiency level...

Mark off or envision a rectangle about 8'x10'. I'm using the area in my shop where I normally park my pickup, about 2' in from each wall. Take off, hover the heli at 2' altitude and point the nose at 12 o'clock. Now move it slowly around the rectangle in straight lines and exact corners, alternating between clockwise and counterclockwise, while not letting the nose move away from the twelve o'clock position or letting the altitude vary more than 6 inches.

Once you can move precisely around the course in this orientation for an entire pack, move onto flying it with the nose pointed at 3 o'clock, then 9, then 6. When you've accomplished this try each nose position at 6' altitude, and then 12' high if your space allows. Finally, after all of this repeat everything with nose pointed at 1:30, 4:30, 7:30 and 10:30.

It's really rather humbling, as after all the time I've spent with the Quark so far I cannot do this in any orientation other than the 12 o'clock, and even that is a challenge to keep the lines straight while maintaining the set altitude. It seems like a lot of work but I was assured (and I now believe) that if you can do this then you'll have achieved a level of finesse and precise control that was never thought possible.

I know I'm going to need a few more batteries before I'm done...
Apr 28, 2008, 05:38 AM
Registered User

How different is the quark when you change the stabilizer to the advanced setting?

Any major surprises, or is it just twitchy, and more sensitive to control?


Apr 28, 2008, 09:50 AM
Registered User
Anyone looking for a spare battery AND charger for the SRB Quark, there's one on Ebay for CHEAP!!!

Apr 28, 2008, 01:12 PM
Dert Farmur
Harv's Avatar

The stabilization is designed into the SRB, and isn't something that can be disabled, and as such twitchy is a word that will probably never be associated with this heli (unless someone was to modify it just to make it that way).

Anyhoo, I really didn't notice too much difference with turning switch #4 on or moving the stabilizer ball. With these changes the Quark is now more responsive alright, but not at the expense of any smoothness or stability that I can discern. I'd say now it could handle a 7-8kph breeze nicely, but I haven't had a chance to try it in these conditions yet so that's mostly a guess. If you're comfortable with all orientations and are smooth on the sticks with no overcontrolling then you'll probably be happy with the way it handles this way also.
Apr 28, 2008, 07:37 PM
Registered User
Harv and whilrybird,

Okay so I switched on the number 4 switch. No real change in the stability. Just more servo throw, so therefore more ff speed, faster turns. But still has that semi auto stability feel. So not much change there.

So then I changed to the center ball setting, and left the number 4 switch on. Now it flys more like a big heli on my sim, with low to medium idle on speed. So now you actually have to do opposite cyclic, because the heli will keep going in the same direction if you let go of the stick, but still in a stable way. If you give medium servo left, it will keep drifting left but a very stable drift left, until you give opposite right.

I am glad I switched over to these settings, because it feels like it flys more like a heli should (at least in my sim).

I am going to practice whilrybird's exercises with these new enhancements. I still fly the heli well, but I think I will work on complete control with these settings before I get a cp.

I may get a cp soon, just to practice stable hovering with in one spot, while I fly the heck out of my little quark.

Just deciding if I should get a 300 size, or 450 size cp, and which one. I def. think I want one with a pitched controlled tail

Any advice would be good.

Apr 28, 2008, 08:57 PM
Dert Farmur
Harv's Avatar
Glad to hear you like the advanced settings, although you'll find that given enough room (50-60 feet) it'll still stabilize back into a hover after cyclic input. After reading your post I fired up Phoenix, and the SRB does fly remarkably similar to the Raptor 30 in the sim alright.

I've only had a Blade CP (original version) and Trex 450 XL HDE, and based on this limited comparison my recommendation would be to go with the Trex. It's larger, somewhat more stable, has a heading hold gyro, pitch controlled tail and I've had no problems at all mechanically. It is more intimidating to me however, and even with an FMA Co-Pilot installed I've never been totally comfortable flying it. Hopefully with another couple hundred flights on the Quark this will change though, and I'll soon be flinging the Trex around the sky with wild abandon like I do the SRB.

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