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Jun 01, 2008, 03:55 PM
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PimPiNo3o7's Avatar
Got in my 1800 X-Cite batteries and put a few flights on the Extra. My A.U.W is now 24.70 oz, the batteries are pulling 330 watts at 28 amps, which is about 218 watts per pound Oh ya motor is Scorpion 3008-28 with Xoar 10x5 prop.

The plane has good pull with the Xoar 10x5 but its even better with an APC 11x5.5, but thats pushing it a little bit so I like the 10x5 better as it keeps the amps down.The plane balances fine at 3 3/4 and I can move the battery back about 1-2 inches if I ever need to but the plane is flying good now and hovers with little effort.
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Jun 01, 2008, 05:14 PM
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I.C.O.N.'s Avatar
leblanc, I am not sure why it's off.

Your motor is .5 ounces more then mine. So .5 ounces in the tail might make sense.

do you have any spinners on the front?

What are you using for batts and servos?

Are you using LG? Does it make a difference with it on and off?

Andy
Jun 01, 2008, 05:26 PM
Registered User
How many threaded push rods should I have gotten I only see two? Do you cut one in half for the wings?
Jun 01, 2008, 05:35 PM
Fly low or go home!
ICON,

No I am not using any spinner on my motor. Running HS-45`s on ailerons, and hs 65`s on the tail. The LG is on and is going to stay there too.

I just put the rudder servo in the tail. Now with the battery as far back as I can get it, it touches around 4.25in. I ll try it like that and hopefully will be plenty.

Thanks

LB
Jun 01, 2008, 07:08 PM
Registered User
I.C.O.N.'s Avatar
leblanc, sounds perfect to me.

I would like the LG on too for ROG, but the tall grass I land in makes it pretty much pointless.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

Andy
Jun 01, 2008, 10:39 PM
Registered User
Paul Jamerson's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwojno
How many threaded push rods should I have gotten I only see two? Do you cut one in half for the wings?

I tossed it all [ heavy ] and used carbon fiber rod glued to the clevis at one end and lashed and glued to piano wire at the other end with quick connects at the servo arms. Good luck and enjoy.
Jun 01, 2008, 10:56 PM
VBARRRR
brian94066's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by dwojno
How many threaded push rods should I have gotten I only see two? Do you cut one in half for the wings?
yes 2 is right

cut one in half for the ailerons and trim the other one for the elevator
Jun 03, 2008, 08:00 AM
Registered User
aflipz's Avatar
Hey Paul, are you not getting my emails??
Jun 03, 2008, 09:48 AM
Fly low or go home!
Hey guys,

I ve been wondering, how does everyone do their hinges? How do you glue them, align, and which glue do you use? My hinging skills are terrible, and at full deflection the servos struggle alot to keep it there.

So, how do YOU hinge?

Will most likely be using the best method on my bipe thats coming in soon.

Thanks

LB
Jun 03, 2008, 09:58 AM
"Because I was pǝʇɹǝʌuı"
bighead93's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by leblanc
Hey guys,

I ve been wondering, how does everyone do their hinges? How do you glue them, align, and which glue do you use? My hinging skills are terrible, and at full deflection the servos struggle alot to keep it there.

So, how do YOU hinge?

Will most likely be using the best method on my bipe thats coming in soon.

Thanks

LB
I use 30 minute epoxy. Test fit the hinge....apply it (not to much) slide into the hinge slot and wipe away any glue that gets pushed out. You should be able to move the hinge at full deflection at this point. When you are happy with it...let it cure. Once it has cured...move the hinges again to make sure you still have full deflection. Does that make sense?
Jun 03, 2008, 10:57 AM
VBARRRR
brian94066's Avatar
i use 15 minute epoxy, and i use 1" wide clear packing tape to seal the control surfaces
Jun 03, 2008, 11:35 AM
Well, now that you know ...
Bigster's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by bighead93
I use 30 minute epoxy. Test fit the hinge....apply it (not to much) slide into the hinge slot and wipe away any glue that gets pushed out. You should be able to move the hinge at full deflection at this point. When you are happy with it...let it cure. Once it has cured...move the hinges again to make sure you still have full deflection. Does that make sense?
I've heard of using vaseline at the hinge line so the epoxy won't cure there. It's something I should have done (but didn't) so my elevator hinges are a bit stiff which is reducing the throw. Keep those hinges clean!
Jun 03, 2008, 11:43 AM
Registered User
aflipz's Avatar
I just buy dubro micro pinned hinges, i bevel the surfaces and recess the hinge by cutting "slots" for them so the tip of the bevelled surface just touches the trailing edge of the stabs and or wings. This gives me a sealed surface with no tape and the most friction free operation you can get.
Jun 03, 2008, 11:50 AM
Registered User
msprygada's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigster
I've heard of using vaseline at the hinge line so the epoxy won't cure there. It's something I should have done (but didn't) so my elevator hinges are a bit stiff which is reducing the throw. Keep those hinges clean!
Bigster, make sure that your carbon bar is not hitting the fuse. I know that you are supposed to be able to have it where the carbon bar is supposed to not move any higher or lower than the horizontal stab but I had to do this on all my Airfoilz planes. See attached picture.
Jun 03, 2008, 11:56 AM
Well, now that you know ...
Bigster's Avatar
I forgot about that, Matt. I'll check it. Thanks for reminding me!


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