[QUOTE=Maybz]I think something must have shrunk... The prop opening should measure 7.3" across. Did you have "fit to page" selected on your printer? Maybe your new smaller version is actually better![/QUOTE

I think you may be right. I know that the prop slot is not 7.3" across. It's more like 6.9. I printed the plans at work in a hurry as to not get caught. I don't even remember if it was "fit to page". In the end, it's still the best foamie in my fleet and I LOVE the set up. I like the looks of full fuses but when you have the simplicity of a profile and the ease of the build and repairs. To me its no contest. Profiles are the bomb!!!! Your design deserves to be in the "Foamie Hall Of Fame" . Really! When you see this sucker at speed. At altitude, wings out than wings in. Full throttle... man. No one cares if its a profile or not. It looks awesome! I've always wanted to build a Shumate F14. The only thing that usually stops me is the fact that I fly aggressively. I do crash. I would cry if I crashed a Shumate plane. A lotta work needs to go into that build. On the other hand, your design is fairly simple to build but has all the dynamic qualities of what an F14 should have. Like I said...COOL A$$ airplane.

SS

Here's a pic of my Tomcat Slicing Factory. The plane is assembled now and I will finish it this weekend.



Someone tell me, what pitch prop should I be using with a Speed 400 outrunner? Usually that motor swings an 11X4 prop, so I'm thinking a 7" prop should have a lot of pitch on it.

Will, looking good :-)

BTW - you dont need a Laser to cut foam.
A small router, Zipcutter, even a Dremel would work on a small CNC set up.

I use 1/8" bits with a 1/16" offset.

Originally Posted by Will Rock

Here's a pic of my Tomcat Slicing Factory. The plane is assembled now and I will finish it this weekend.



Someone tell me, what pitch prop should I be using with a Speed 400 outrunner? Usually that motor swings an 11X4 prop, so I'm thinking a 7" prop should have a lot of pitch on it.

Willrock, can you give us a little more info on the motor.. maybe a model number or a link to someone who sells it?

Wow maybz this is great!I have 2 foamies in line for build but this just went to the front of the line.

I do have a couple questions: Noticed that the 2nd set of plans are not the same ones in your manual build guide.

Are the two set of plans the same size? The prop cutout is a little short for a 7" prop but only by like 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch, will this be a propblem to trim out the hole a little to fit a 7x5 prop?

Can't wait to start looks to be great! Going to try my new foam cutter hot wire for this one!

Stephen Shioi I was wondering what your AUW is?

Also I see that you put your dx6 antennas going opposite directions opposed to a 90 degree set up as manual says, does this work good for you? I Like the way you did a lot better than a 90 but am paranoid to do so.

By the way great looking jet!!

Originally Posted by protarget88

Wow maybz this is great!I have 2 foamies in line for build but this just went to the front of the line.

I do have a couple questions: Noticed that the 2nd set of plans are not the same ones in your manual build guide.

Are the two set of plans the same size? The prop cutout is a little short for a 7" prop but only by like 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch, will this be a propblem to trim out the hole a little to fit a 7x5 prop?

Can't wait to start looks to be great! Going to try my new foam cutter hot wire for this one!

The prop opening should measure 7.3". Make sure your printer is set to 100% so the plans print out full size. The grid pattern on the plans is at 1" increments so you can measure them to confirm the correct size. 10 squares should measure exactly 10".

awwww, ya thats what it was...97% not 100%

Thanks!

I am making a small batch of CNC cut kits and I just got the first set in for testing. I figured I would document the build for anyone wanting to make their own.

Birdofplay cut the parts for me and they arrived neatly packed in a pizza box. The quality and fit of the parts is absolutely top-notch.

I want on the list when you get the rest of them.
Have you thought about price yet?

Build the bottom first - make sure your table is flat. I build the entire plane using foam safe CA and kicker. The best technique is to spray kicker on one part and apply a sparing amount of glue to the other part then press them together and hold for a few seconds. This allows for a very quick build.

Fuselage is next... watch out for the engine mount tabs that protrude out of the top side.

Glue the doublers in next. Align the kink in the doubler with the deck joint.

Temporarily install the hatch and rear bottom piece and position the inlet piece.
Chamfer the inside edge of the inlet LE so that it form scoop. Glue the inlet piece only at this time.

(Sorry about the gross black thumbnail... I got in a fight with a Sawzall a few weeks back)

Install the rest of the radio gear and center all of the servos - note the orientation of the wing servo... it is critical that the output shaft be towards the front of the plane.. Use the delta mixer on your TX for the elevons and a 3-position switch and AUX or GEAR channel for the wing servo. Install the ESC and then glue the rear bottom piece on when ready.

Install the hatch... I use magnets and a wood tab, or tape hinge.

IDEAL flying weight is 12~14 oz. This gives both the best vertical and slow-flying performance.

You're now done with the bottom.

Flip 'er over and build the top side now... lightly sand the inside of the wings to fit the pivot discs if needed.

Build the wings next... Sandwich the .030 x .236 carbon spar between the two foam pieces. It's easiest to glue all three parts at the same time. Make sure the carbon is flush with the foam.

Next, glue the wood gussets to the spar and edge of the wing, make sure they are centered on the wing's thickness.