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This thread is privately moderated by martin richards, who may elect to delete unwanted replies.
Feb 27, 2009, 09:35 AM
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This is what there is for a Voyager website, but it's hardly changed for months.
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Mar 13, 2009, 02:22 AM
Registered User
Are the sailboats from hobbycity something good?

They look so nice!
Mar 17, 2009, 06:15 PM
Registered User
larrykin's Avatar

Sticky Kit Boats

I really dislike the RTS Chinese boats as they are such poor quality. I made the learning curve mistakes of first buying a Century 750 and then a Hurricane 1000. Yes, they do look pretty but.... I have read that the same goes for the Monsoon 900 and the Triumph 800.

With kit boats my favorite is the Voyager 1M Racing Cup Yacht. I have 2. I took the advice from this forum and replaced everything except the hull, keel, bulb and rudder.

With good sails and a decent sail servo the boats fly! Enjoy a video of my Voyager in a light breeze.

Voyager 1M Racing Cup Yacht (9 min 35 sec)

Larry L.
Mar 17, 2009, 10:10 PM
Taking care of the pond.
I'm with you Larry.
I really like my Voyager with my new Chuck Black sails.
I changed everything too.

Don M.
Apr 02, 2009, 01:56 PM

How about listing stability data?

I have been trying to locate stability information on various boats. I think that the length of the fin (from the waterline to the center of the lead bulb) woulld be vital information to prospective designers of model sailboats. Second would be the weight of the lead bulb, third would be sail area and the center of that area. I have asseembled a list of AMYA boat specs and the length on deck as well as the height of the mast is easily available and the RTS weight of the boat, and often the draft. But no info on the weight of the bulb. Does anyone have a good estimate as to the percent of displacement provided by the lead bulbs? (Of course some actual weights would be better.)
Apr 02, 2009, 09:44 PM
Registered User
Originally Posted by George Steele
Does anyone have a good estimate as to the percent of displacement provided by the lead bulbs? (Of course some actual weights would be better.)
The simple answer is the maximum.
By using lightweight materials for the boat, you minimise the weight up top, and you can maximise the weight down below.

Getting the weight low down will aid stability.

So weight of bulb =
(displament equivalent weight) - (weight of hull+rigging+radiotray+fin)
Apr 03, 2009, 12:31 PM
Reviewing "Model Yachting" #154 I found that the fin on the Laser is 16 inches long and has a four pound lead bulb. Thus "rough and ready" the maximum righting moment may be about four foot pounds. The tall una rigs have areas of 710, and 600 sq. inches. That is all I found after about 2 hours of searching.
Apr 03, 2009, 03:01 PM
Useful Idiot
This is drifting a bit off topic. George, I suggest you open a new thread (it's too interesting to just disappear) so that I can tidy the thread a bit.
Apr 05, 2009, 02:11 PM
Dear Martin, sorry, zap them off, I do not know how.
Apr 05, 2009, 02:46 PM
Useful Idiot
George, I've asked the moderators to split the thread. If all goes according to plan, you should eventually see a thread you've opened called "Stability Criteria".
Tks for your co-operation.
May 04, 2009, 03:34 AM
NeverAgainVolunteerYourse lf
nick_75au's Avatar
Noticed the Windstar in the PDF, I have one of these, I purchased the hull which comes with deck hardware but no masts or sails. There are conflicting reports on what glue to use. I've ended up with epoxy and vigorous sanding where stuff needs gluing .
I initially built the deck hardware as stock, but after a second rebuild cut a further hole in the deck fwd to assist in fitting the forward hardware. If you are not built like a rake you would have to cut the extra hole anyway.
the drum winch under the deck is a PITA, I started out fitting it as per plans, then fitting it under the deck with the drum above. In its third build I put it back under as per the plans, It looks neater and is better for weight but is a hassle to setup, A computer radio is a must IMHO for the Hitec drum winches.
I built all my own sails and spars from hardware aluminium and arrow shafts for the booms, fishing shop for rigging wire braid and assorted clips.

Its definitely faster than the Hurricanes and other RTR type boats but it has more sail area and ballast so is to be expected. good in a blow, I've sailed her in 20 + Kts.

Its not a beginner boat to build especially if you don't opt for the sail sets.

I also owned a Robbe Comtesse, I cant remember the build but it must have been fairly easy as I built it when I was around 19 and fairly new to RC, I sold it as I was sailing at the time with a mixed group of competitive sailors and its fairly slow, but its pretty.

The Thunder Tiger Aussie 11 is good for kids in the pool, anyone at all serious about sailing don't bother, my Razor footy sails 150% better. It was, I think my first RC sail boat.

Last edited by nick_75au; May 05, 2009 at 02:00 AM. Reason: Noticed another boat I use to have
May 04, 2009, 01:27 PM
Say Nick..... good info man. Thanks. Can you give us a little write up (follow the format in the pdf as much as possible) and email it off to martin (or me) to include in the pdf for posterity?


May 04, 2009, 03:04 PM
Useful Idiot
The Windstar (without pigmented hull) is one of the few IOM legal kit boats. Robbe list various rigs. The design's a bit dated but it should definately outsail even the "good" kit boats.
May 05, 2009, 02:13 AM
NeverAgainVolunteerYourse lf
nick_75au's Avatar
There was talk in the IOM NCA forums (i think) about giving manufacturers licences which will allow them to produce hulls with pigment in the interior. Unfortunately I cant find the reference. I wish I had of known the rule when I first brought the boat and Robbes offer to replace them No 'net back then.
I dont think the offer is good now after 9 odd years.
May 05, 2009, 09:37 AM
Useful Idiot

Robbe Windstar

Here are Nick's building comments and tips:Building tips,
Originally Posted by nick75_Au
Cut a hatch in the fore deck between the jib attachment and jib sheeting lines leave around an inch of hull between the attachment and hull cut out. Seal with cloth patch.
Use slow drying epoxy and sand thoroughly any place where gluing (the un-pigmented hull may be less of a problem.
There's enough room in the hull for an arm winch, the stock location for a drum winch is a pain but neat.
I've ended up wedging a carbon fiber tube from the mast bolt to the front of the keel box (has to be removable if class rules are followed(fiber glass or alloy one would be OK fixed)) otherwise rig tension depresses deck.
I put the fwd turning block further forward than the fwd jib attachment point
Don't leave in back of car with any rig tension, the hull will deform.
From memory the position of the hole for the keel bolt was confusing, I got it wrong but cant remember why.
A computer radio (ATV at minimum) is a must I think to set endpoints for the Hitec drum I'm using, or use a RMG.

Ive sailed against other IOMs and the guys reckon with some tuning it could become competitive at club level. I haven't used the Robbe sail sets, I think you would do much better with Sails Etc rigging and professional sails.
Its a much more powerful boat than the RTR type boats so can handle wind much better.
The hull is a copy of Metric Magic, the 1994 IOM World Champion.
The boat has a flared bow which resists diving, over press it and the boat will still dive and the flat nose brings it to a screeching halt.
Overall a good boat for non competitive club sailing that is in between (in value and quality) the RTR style and the current crop of IOMs on offer.

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